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I Forge Iron

Propane as a Fuel and at what Pressure


Dale M.

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Contemplating a gas forge and have pretty good understanding on burners, but am little in the dark at what pressure you run propane supply.... Have experimental burner up and running but seem to find that at tank pressures it awful temperamental to get going and keep going and the only regulator I have is a 11 I.W. camp trailer tank regulator which just does not get the thing going at all.... Burner is 3/4 inch pipe with bell end and using a .030 MIG tip for gas jet/orifice... Question is if I get an adjustable regulator what one is more appropriate, 0-10 psi or 0-30 psi or 0 to 60 psi.... Can not imaging pressure needs to be really high and there is no sense buying a regulator more expensive than in pressure range than may be needed...

Any enlightenment is appreciated...

Dale

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Al mygas forges are run from 0 to 4 bar (0 to 56 psi) regs.
The pressure needed will depend upon the orifice size . I have run burnerd with 0.6 mm to 1.2mm (.024 to .050) jets from them.
0 to 2 bar could be ok but will probably leave you short.

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I use a .040 tip with a 1 in tube.  I start at 10 psi until hot and then throttle down to 5 psi for general forging.  I also use a volume bypass to really throttle down when out of the forge or doing leaves etc.

You may need to start a 25 psi and then lower pressure when hot.  But you do need a fully adjustabe regulator 0 to 30 psi min.

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You want a 0-50 psi regulator though a 0-30psi will do if you get the burner right and properly tuned.

 

A 3/4" bore ejector type burner will work better with a 0.35" mig tip jet.

 

Basic tuning is most easily done by moving the orifice of the jet in or out in the tube. Farther back induces more air for a leaner burn, deeper in for richer. The most important aspect is aligning the jet as close to exactly down the center of the tube as you can get it.

 

I didn't watch the whole half hour Youtube. Did he mention the correct ratios? The ratios make a big difference in how hard it will be to tune. All the ratios are determined from the bore dia. which is the point down stream of the intake ports that is narrowest. With a straight tube as shown the bore dia. is the tube dia.

 

Well from 3/4" bore as the initiation point the tube length should be 8-9X the bore dia. or 6 - 6.75" long.

 

The intake ports need to be bore x 1- 2 X area. For 3/4" bore intake area should = 3/4" - 1 1/2"

 

Lastly is the flare. It is NOT a flame holder. What it does is slow the flame velocity by increasing the area of the tube making it fill a greater volume. It helps hold the flame but that is a SIDE issue what it's primary function is is to increase the induction vacuum. This has a couple effects, first the inducer (burner) draws more intake air. Secondly it makes the flame more robust and stable, it's less effected by external breezes and back pressure. Back pressure can be increased simply by placing a piece of stock in the flame so you want as strong and stable a flame as possible.

 

Naturally aspirated burners have been discussed and trouble shot here for years now, a little searching should give you more info than you want or need.

 

Frosty The Lucky.

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Thank you...... Think that is the data I was looking for.... Will have to digest it some and make adjustments to burner to see if it improves burner..... First project is to get adj. regulator... Probably will just get the 0-60 psi and be done with it...

Dale

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Perhaps I am tired, it has been a long day, but could you review the below and advise if my ‘revisions’ are correct and, if not, perhaps some clarification?   

 

The intake ports need to be bore x 1- 2 X area. For 3/4" bore intake area should = 3/4" - 1 1/2"

 

I interpret the above to be:

The total intake area is determined by a multiple of one or two times the bore/burner diameter.  For example: a 3/4” bore/burner diameter would require a total intake area of .75 to 1.5 square inches.

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