Anvil sketch and questions

[John B]

True. I'll see how much getting the block machined costs and then see if it's worth it. But I might do that and it'll give me more mass in the end. 

 

Then why did you remove mass in the first place?  Seems it will cost more than the real thing before you are done, and still not be as effective.

[CaptainBruno]

Then why did you remove mass in the first place?  Seems it will cost more than the real thing before you are done, and still not be as effective.

 

I have no proper answer to that other than the fact that the aim was to get a final product that looks the way that I want it to. For my costs and access to equipment, the removal was the easiest for me to do in my current situation. I could have simply bought a 200 pound block of steel or buy a real anvil for that matter, but the goal was making something and having fun.

[John B]

I have no proper answer to that other than the fact that the aim was to get a final product that looks the way that I want it to. For my costs and access to equipment, the removal was the easiest for me to do in my current situation. I could have simply bought a 200 pound block of steel or buy a real anvil for that matter, but the goal was making something and having fun.

 

Then have fun and enjoy, any learning is useful.

[Jeff C]

I like it. I hope to be able to tackle one myself some day. I would have gone with removal as well, but my purpose for an aesthetically pleasing and possibly historically accurate shape would be for demonstration purposes. Where lighter is better as you're lugging that SOB all over. A non-standard shaped anvil tends to bring in more attention in my experience, as I have a mild stake anvil I use for blades that gets all kinds of interest. I would suggest having a hardened steel plate cut and welded to the top. My mild one deforms a fair amount with moderate usage, and if I spent the time to get it looking nice, I would want to have a grinding or milling surface on top I could touch up over time. 

[K. Bryan Morgan]

Personally I would have just put that thing up on end and started beating on it.  More mass under the hammer is what is desirable.  Since your hitting hot steel you don't need a hardface or toolsteel plate.  See Brian  Brazeals striking anvil.

 

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/27995-striking-anvil/#entry285056

[LastRonin]

Why worry about the gap under the window plate? If you run a weld bead around the entire perimeter, leave no opening for moisture to intrude and eat away at it... shouldn't it be fine? You're not going to be beating steel on the arches and so rebound won't matter.

[VaughnT]

I like it.  I would have opted to build up the sides instead of cutting them in, but that's me.  

 

The end product is going to look very neat.

 

The only thing I would suggest is that you weld a section of fork lift tine to the face plate.  You can do this without pre/post heating and it won't take the heat-treat out of the tine if you take it slow.  It will, however, add mass and durability to the top.  You end up with a heavier anvil that performs well and looks awesome.  What more could you want?

[Patrick Nowak]

Yes I did pre-heat significantly.Hard faced thickness was 2 passes in most areas since more passes likely would result in cracking. I used about 35 lbs of 3/16 rod to do that job, though that amount also includes the hard face of the square horn. If you search for a post titled "1050# fabricated anvil" in this forum you can find several pictures of that project and the details of how I made it.

 

Patrick

[LastRonin]

Patrick... you are sick... and twisted. It's great to see mad genious at work. Just kidding. What is great is to see the sort of attention to detail and commitment. I look forward to seeing the completed piece.