CaptainBruno Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Alright, For my grad present, I went to my local scrapyard and bought myself 150# of steel. I'm going to make myself an anvil. I don't think it's any kind of alloy. As far as I know, this isn't some special alloy of some kind, it's relatively soft, but it still has decent rebound already. As for the layout, I figured I want to make something I can't buy. I really like the german and french hornless styles. So here's what I came up with as a design. So what I'm asking is. What would you suggest for methods of cutting this shape out? or would you suggest welding the pieces onto the sides? Also, for the hard face, I'm thinking one of two methods. One, I buy a tool steel plate, and weld it onto the top. Two, I try to find some sort of large torch, preheat the anvil, get some hard surfacing welding rods, and weld a layer onto the top. So any advice is welcomed, along with any comments that this is a terrible idea and I'm doing it completely wrong. Thanks for taking a look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 If it were me I`d cut off the handles and use it till I bumped up against something that required me to modify it then I`d do only the mods needed to complete the job at hand. In my world function trumps form every time. Once you get it to the point it does everything you need it to do THEN you can focus on making it pretty. My guess is that when that point comes you`ll be too busy making pretty projects to worry about what others think about the tools you`re making those good looking projects on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pug}{maN Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 And I'm just the opposite all my stuff has to be just as beautiful as a performs. If I don't enjoy looking at it I won't enjoy working on it... So if you got the time and means make that thing pretty as you can Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
switchjv Posted January 4, 2013 Share Posted January 4, 2013 Maybe a water jet can cut the shape you want? Or an eight inch grinder with several metal grinding discs. I've seen a couple of guys attach a piece of tool steel. But if your just going to hammer hot steel on it, I don't think hard facing it will be necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBruno Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 for Mainelybob. I understand where you're coming from, but the point of this project isn't exactly function. At the root of it, yes. I do want a functional anvil, but I could just buy one. I want to make an object that I feel is beautiful, and something I'm proud to say that I made. But I also want to beat metal on it. I also have the time to do this, so it's not like I'm losing valuable time in this thing. I want to learn, have fun and be proud of my anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBruno Posted January 4, 2013 Author Share Posted January 4, 2013 Maybe a water jet can cut the shape you want? Or an eight inch grinder with several metal grinding discs. I've seen a couple of guys attach a piece of tool steel. But if your just going to hammer hot steel on it, I don't think hard facing it will be necessary. do you think a water jet could cut through 4.5 inches of steel? if so that would be my best option. I was going to cut it by torch, but I don't have the equipment for that. My oxy-acetylene setup can't do more than 2 inches nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgewayforge Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 If I were you, I'd make SURE you know what alloy it is, before making any mods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBruno Posted January 5, 2013 Author Share Posted January 5, 2013 Well there's honestly no way for me to know. I can try cutting a bit and attempt to harden to see if it'll take, but I'm willing to be money that it's just some A36 MILD steel. This stuff was in a gigantic pile of scrap. All from the same source. They were all leftovers from cutouts of some bigger pieces. There was way too much and I got this for 15 cents a pound. I doubt it's anything more than mild steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 mild steel will work just fine look up Brian Brazeal striking anvil quick simple and works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulsepushthepopulace Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 I would not cut into the form, it's pointless work. I would take a plate, thickness depending on how deep you want the church window cut it to shape, and then weld it to the 4" thick plate, radius the edges along with the weld deposit, and it will look as if it were one homogenous piece... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgewayforge Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Welding plate on is a good idea, as those areas would be subject to less stress than the central forging surface. I think that this is a great project, I applaud you for your gumption and I look forward to following this threat! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete46 Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 When you cut out , you lose weight. Chase'n a lite anvil sucks too much time from your life! :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweany Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Is it 3",4" thick. Probably not A36 probably a more weldable mild steel, Possibly 516-70 or the like. Cut a a small piece see if it hardens. I'd set up a guide bar and use a 4-1/2" grinder to make the windows use one of these to dress it out. . Unless I had a buddy with a mill. Weld on a tool steel plate? If you just weld the edges, you will leave a dead air space under the top plate, not as good as forge welded plate. I'd go with the hard face rod, preheat to 200F. Check out the weld supply for prices. But first I'd hammer on it a while and see how it works for you. I've built a couple anvils with and with out hardface. My favorite was a block anvil with a stellite face. There is nothing like making your own tools, and a church window anvils are just classy . IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 I'd add material on if you can. That way you hav more mass under the hammer. I look forward to pictures of the project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pulsepushthepopulace Posted January 5, 2013 Share Posted January 5, 2013 Link removed at the request of Anvilfire A very helpful bit of information from Anvilfire on DIY Anvils.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBruno Posted January 5, 2013 Author Share Posted January 5, 2013 Thanks everyone. So I went on yellowpages and I found a place near me that do high pressure waterjet cutting. I'll see if they can cut my piece, if so that'd be my best option. As for the church windows, I know this really nice guy who's a machinist, he might be able to mill that in there. It seems like I won't be doing all that much work myself eh? For the hard face. I'll see what I can come up with. I'm gonna go see my welding supplier and see what he can offer as a deal for hard surfacing rods, cause that can get pretty xxxx expensive. otherwise I'll just dish out the 60 bucks and get myself a plate of tool steel, give my anvil's top a nice deep bevel and get about at least an inch of penetration under the plate. There's no reason that wouldn't hold. As soon as I make any changes I'll be sure to show you guys. Thanks a whole lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 Don't hardface it unless you have all the time in the word to grind it to a decent finish and don't mind it cracking and spalling in use. I'm not going to offer an opinion of the form is more important than function camp, not my thing. Adding weight is more beneficial to working than removing it. Machining the cathedral windows is about it for decent results and not taking forever. you don't need them to be deep, they only have to represent the cathedral features, not be historically accurate. The viewer's mind's eye will fill the details so all you really need to do is suggest the features. Best of luck, have fun. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 I'd still weld a plate on for the cathedral windows personally. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EGreen Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 for the windows,drill a hole for each arch.then find somebody with a bandsaw or power hacksaw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBruno Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 Oh I could easily fabricate the plate you're talking about myself. I'd just be worried about the gap leftover under that plate you know? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 You could do a full penetration weld on that church-window plate without too much difficulty by standing it off of the side a bit and snaking a thin rod into the gap. Basically, the same technique you would use to weld a plate onto the top. But even if you didn't manage to get complete penetration of the weld, the airspace left is on a non-working side. Not really a critical area, imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBruno Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 But even if you didn't manage to get complete penetration of the weld, the airspace left is on a non-working side. Not really a critical area, imo. True. I'll see how much getting the block machined costs and then see if it's worth it. But I might do that and it'll give me more mass in the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Nowak Posted January 7, 2013 Share Posted January 7, 2013 Elsewhere on this sight is a thread about an anvil I made. I did hard face it using Hobart Hardalloy 48. The face was 9.5 x 20. It took me 7 hours of welding to hard face it plus several more to do the grinding with a 9" angle grinder. The Hardalloy 48 is NOT a high wear risistance rod but does get into the mid 50s HRc which is just fine for an anvil. I did not have any cracking problems with this rod, but I have had those issues with much more highly alloyed rods are are designed to stress relieve by cracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBruno Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 Did you preheat your surface before welding? And how many passes thick was that? And how many rods did that end up costing you in the end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBruno Posted January 11, 2013 Author Share Posted January 11, 2013 Alright Update!! So I got the rough shape cut out for 40 bucks. Goin to have a to do a lot of welding and grinding to bring it to it's final shape but I'm super happy with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.