Makerx Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 I am a knife maker and am starting to get into blacksmithing. I got a large supply of the fs tool carbide tipped saw blades. Wondering if anyone has worked with this stuff? I know it is carbon steel. I was thinking of getting it analyzed and if no help of the steel maybe someone could help with a place to analyze this and maybe a cost estimate on this. Thanks for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SmoothBore Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 I'd ask one of their "Product Engineers" . A 3 second GOOGLE search yielded this contact info. FS Tool Corporation Tel: 1-800-387-9723 / 905-475-1999 Fax: 1-800-361-5010/ 905-475-0347 Email: customerservice@fstoolcorp.com Request Literature: marketing@fstoolcorp.com HEAD OFFICE - CANADA 71 Hobbs Gate Markham ON L3R 9T9 USA 210 South Eighth Street, PO Box 510 Lewiston NY 14092-0510 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 The backing on any saw blade with carbide teeth has little to do, Merely keep keep the teeth in position to do the work. Not sure about this brand but a wild guess it that most companies use a steel that will wrok at the least cost. If you would share wot you wish to do with it I am sure there are folks on here that have ideas on whether it will do that task. Steel for knives needs at least .60 carbon included in its make up. I doubt this steel will be close to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 First off think SAFETY for you and every one around you. cut a piece of the saw harden in oil dont temper and stick it in a vise with safety googles gloves ect TAP the part sticking out to see if it breaks off if not hit it progressivly harder till it does or bends. If it bends harden in water do same thing If it bennds in salt water it deffinately is soft. Dont use unknown used steel in a knife you plan to sell but if it is for your or giving as a gift you made only it might be something else until you can affort the extra cost of known steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted December 25, 2012 Share Posted December 25, 2012 I get saw blades from work, made in Japan, that are carbide tipped. They harden nicely in oil. I have asked but the engineer considers the steel to be a trade secret. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Makerx Posted December 25, 2012 Author Share Posted December 25, 2012 I called fs tool and they wont tell me what steel it is. They said it came from germany. I heat treated it and it went to 65 rockwell. I quenched it in water to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 "trade secret" is rather bogus as nowadays you can do spark spectroscopy on them and get the content fairly easily and cheaply for industrial values of easily and cheaply! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Aww but the saw makers are still in the ART side of things. The thin kerf about 100 tooth carbides we use at the plant are very very critical on edge geometry and so forth. Getting a blade to cut plastic over 430 stainlees that is very thin and not make a burr or melt and smear the plastic is indeed high art. Getting the backing body of the blade to not vibrate is also required and the laser cuts are ART as well. I do not know what the alloy is but it makes a nice fine grained break taking fairly high force when quenched in veggie oil. I have aquired many once scrapped and have one guy who uses them in a 14" abrasive chop saw on A-36! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Hale Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 Ptree can you 'splain how your friends uses the chop saw with this material? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 "abusively" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 He removes the clamp nut on the abrasive chop saw, removes the abrasive blade, installs the carbide tipped blade, installs the nut and then cuts. He may have a bigger saw then a 14", and he may have a belt drive and maybe slowed the rpm, but he gets a dozen each year at Quad State. That is however my entire knowledge of what he does. I did warn him misuse. Several of my blade smith friends have made blades from them, and I sell a number at Quadstate for making into blade stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 And yes Thomas abusively probably fits. I think I remember giving you one a couple of years ago, Did I? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 I don't recall; you gave me a lot of die springs one of which is on my favorite home made tool. I don't have anything to spin something that large and I have a small saw with a carbide blade on backwards I abusively use to cut propanel with. Just about burned out now; luckily I finished my shop up with it and I fished it out of a dumpster to get it in the first place! The previous owner had cut off the plug to be sure any scroungers would use it on their own folly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Heck, I use a carbide vernier blade in my skill saw to cut steel roofing and wall sheeting, no problem. the worst part is the HOT bits of sheet flying. PPE all the way. Cutting thicker material you have to use good feel and not overhog the blade or it'll stall, chip or . . . go bad in another way. I think turning a carbide blade backwards is an urban myth as the carbides are intended to cut going forward, cutting backwards drag through the cut in their weakest, most vulnerable angle of attack. I've tried running carbide blades backward and they don't cut as well, as cleanly nor last as long as running forward. Of course YMMV as always. Running carbide blades backwards is a common practice for cutting metal though and they're worn out anyway so . . . Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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