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I Forge Iron

how do you forge a bevel on a straight blade


thunderforge777

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A ;lot of folks have that same issue. When you hit hot metal it gets thinner,,it expands outward,,the spine of  the blade stays where it is and the bottom gets longer,,then it curves up. We started  a knife chat on here to help with this and other common issues.

Everywednesday eve at ten pm EST join us if you wish.

The forging bevels was I think in the 102 session,which you can find in the thread right below this one,,under knifemaking 101,,,and it may help if youstart at the firfst, 101 and read on through to 107,,,,,,,lots of work went into those ,,enjoy.

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Bend it the opposite way before forging the bevel in *OR* you can heat the blade and put it arch up on the anvil (spine down) and tap it down until it's straight again---this really works; if you are nervous you can tap it down with a chunk of wood but I use my hammer even when the edge is close to finish forging.

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We have said this many times before: making blades requires at least a minimal amount of blacksmithing skills, If you dont know how to straighten a bent a section of steel, back up and learn some basic forging skills and you will find your blades come out much better for the effort, You must learn to walk before trying to run.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Or if you want to make it all thin put a bevel on the other side and after you do both bevels (basically at the same time)  you can then flatten the middle of the blade where it starts to look like a diamond when looking from the tip/tang downwords. I made a blade like this, haven't finished it, it was a practice piece to see what I could do. Have to find it and finish it. Sort of dagger like with a rounded tip.(mine still has the thickest bit in the middle though).

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Like others, I was shown to precurve the blank downwards, and let the bevel push it back up. Lots of factors affect the amount of precurve - I usually start of with something bananna shaped in profile ! Its rare I will get the amount of precurve spot on, so it tends to be a combination of precurve, and 'wacking the spine or the edge' as necessary.

 

I have got a very heavy hammer with hide inserts that is usefull for the adjustments ( tends to be a solid thump needed, not really 'forging' )

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