Jon Smith Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 We were cutting wood for the fireplace and I had to do a double take when I found a good sized burl on a log. I haven't cut it up yet but it looks like some interesting grain patterns in there. So my question is whether or not anyone has experience using the stuff for a handle, either slab or block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted December 21, 2012 Share Posted December 21, 2012 Before you stick it on a blade, make sure the moisture content is on or below 10%. I'd be happy to relieve you of the burden and even pay for shipping to Oregon. :) Nice find! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 Look up how to stabilize it in your home workshop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Smith Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 I do plan to try and stabilize it, but I believe it has be dry first, yes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 Most burl (Oak especially) will crack as it shrinks due to drying. I`d put it in a plastic bag, seal it and put it in a cool spot, out of the sun and heat until you decide what you want to do and how you want to do it. Check the bag every other day and turn the bag inside out then seal it again. Keep doing this till the bag isn`t noticeable wet inside. then move to a double layer of paper bags and store it in a closet. I`ve seen some really nice burl ruined by folks who were too impatient to dry the wood properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Smith Posted December 24, 2012 Author Share Posted December 24, 2012 Sounds simple enough. I think I'll go with that route and then stabilize. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjcook Posted December 26, 2012 Share Posted December 26, 2012 i have not made handles, But I have turned them quite a few times. I follow the same plastic bag routine as "MB" and it works very well, but dont leave it in the sun or it will lose the moisture to fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 You sure do get some fine wood out of the wood pile for use in craft project that's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweany Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Give this some thought.http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/boiling-green-wood.htmlhttp://www.woodturners.org/tech_tips/misc-pages/boiling.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Smith Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 I went ahead with the bag method and have it in a compressed two gallon ziplock in a dark corner of the shop. With it finally turning colder (below 75*) down south, it shouldn't get too hot. Which leads to the next step. Anyone have a good home process to stabilize this bad boy? I keep seeing the minwax wood hardener, but anything else that has good results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted December 27, 2012 Share Posted December 27, 2012 Is there a problem using the suggested stabilizing methods and chemicals in the knife making ref section? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Smith Posted December 27, 2012 Author Share Posted December 27, 2012 No there's no problem with it, and I have read through the ref materials. I was just wondering if anyone had come up with other methods/ materials that weren't listed. The whole vacuum/pressure thing kind of throws me for a true, deep stabilization. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revtor Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 keeping it in a sealed ziploc really wont let it dry out will it? I'd wrap it in 5 or so layers of newspaper and then put that in a few paper bags. That should seal it enough to slow the drying (compared to no wrapping) but still allow it to dry out. Chem stabilizing Im not familiar with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
son_of_bluegrass Posted January 1, 2013 Share Posted January 1, 2013 Using a plastic bag works so long as you turn the bag inside out daily. Turning the bag allows moisture to escape (early on it may condense on the inside of the bag which becomes the outside). If you don't turn the bag often enough, the wood can spalt (start to mold). Personally I coat any endgrain in carpenter glue, that has worked best for me. ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearhartironwerks Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 I use Acryloid B 72 diluted in acetone kept under vacuum for 2-3 days, cycling several times a day. Acryloid B 72 is used by museums for permanence. After several days under vacuum, the penetration is complete. Then I allow a week+ for drying time. That time can be decreased up by heating to 150 deg and soaking for an hour +. The cost is reasonable, and all that is needed is an old pressure cooker and an auto vacuum pump + some plumbing. The alternative is to spend $100+ for a gallon of "cactus juice" and do the same process. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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