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I Forge Iron

How to NOT mount an anvil


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This is the anvil I inherited into my welding program at school (I teach welding at a technical college). I say inherited - I waited until the auto collision instructor retired, then stole it from that shop while there was no instructor... Anyway, this is apparently how body shop guys go about mounting one:

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84lb anvil. Loosely strapped to 1/8" steel plate, welded to exhaust pipe, welded to 1/2 of a 13" steel wheel.

This thing was a blast to chase around the shop while using it! The anvil would rebound back after hitting it and actually lift the base off the ground!

It's now on a stump and works way better.

*** Just to clarify - this anvil is still school property, still on school grounds, just moved down the hall. Also - the new auto collision instructor has blessed the transfer since he has little use for it.

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Very nice setup. She sure looks happier on that fine stump than that travesty of a stand.

 

If you bed the anvil in some silicone caulk, it will kill the ring almost 100%.  I did it to my Wilkonson and it went from church bell to oak plank in a skinny minute.  Far nicer to work on now that eardrums are getting a break.

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Bad Anvil Mounts: The VoTech east of OKC had an anvil mounted on top of a swage block sitting flat in a stand. They had torched out the center of the swageblock to make it lighter...

Transferring locations: I found an old bridge anvil out in the desert near the crumbling remains of an old cable tool drilling rig, out back of the surplus property yard at the local college. I talked to the Surplus people and they wouldn't sell it so I talked with my friend who is the Fine Arts Metals instructor and it's now being "stored" out by the post vise in her classroom. With an inventory control number painted on it. They told her it was worth thousands of dollars---about 10 times the real rate to get one in that condition.

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Very nice setup. She sure looks happier on that fine stump than that travesty of a stand.

 

If you bed the anvil in some silicone caulk, it will kill the ring almost 100%.  I did it to my Wilkonson and it went from church bell to oak plank in a skinny minute.  Far nicer to work on now that eardrums are getting a break.

 

 

What is the exact procedure for this?  Do you carve out a section of the stump and fill it with silicone or just lay down a 'mat' of it and stick the anvil in it?  Do you do it while it's still wet so it's somewhat embedded or wait until it's dry and just rest it on top of the caulk?  Is there a specific kind of silicone I should use?  Sorry to bombard you with these questions...

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Captain, no need to carve out a hollow or anything so troublesome.  Simply paint the underside of the anvil, or the top of the stump, with a good layer of caulk (I used masonry adhesive, actually) and put the two together.  I applied a bit much (used the entire tube) and it squeezed out everywhere, so I ended up "painting" the entire top of the stump (which is rather good protection against weather).  

 

I would recommend no more than half a tube of caulk, though the guy that shared the secret with me says to just draw a nice thick line of caulk around the perimeter of the underside of the anvil.  I took it to extremes.

 

Any type of sealant is good, but I would certainly be sure that it was for outside use if you have the anvil outside.  Better safe than sorry.

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It would be nice to see the stump fitted to the anvil a little (squared up at the top) and the chain taken over the sides so the lag bolts go perpendicular to the load so they are less likely to pull out.  You can put bolts with nuts betweens the chains on each side to add tension if needed.

 

Of course there is no need to mess with what isn't broken.  That is a nice setup.

 

Phil

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Those are 6" long lag bolts - shouldn't pull out very easily. I just wanted to keep the chain and bolts to a minimum so they weren't the most prominent feature you noticed. The wood is still drying, but I do plan to go back and cut in a "seat" for it to sit in. I just don't have much in the way of tools - specially for woodworking at school. I also plan to run bands around the stump to keep it from splitting.

I'm no expert, but I really like that anvil. It has great rebound, and is in like new condition. It's about the same weight as my personal Wilkinsons, but is almost 1" wider on the face making it much nicer to work on.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Funnily enough I have a setup a bit like the original. I have the full set of blackbird tools anvil stakes. (www.incandescent-iron.com)I wanted something in which to mount these so as not to take up the anvil. Obviously I don't do any heavy hammering on small stakes but for making leaves etc. they are ideal. So I got a piece of water pipe and welded it into an old wheel. The pipe is hefty stuff and I filled the wheel with concrete and steel so the whole thing is heavy enough for the purpose. On the top is a piece of 15mm plate with a square hole which suits the anvil stakes.  Of course if I want I can still use either the vice or the hardie hole but rarely do. Aso I can make hardie type tools to fit the stand but again only for very light work.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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