Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Spoon to handle Joint - How to?


Recommended Posts

I have been asked to make a spoon and fork for a Christmas Present.

I have hammered out the spoon end from roughly 1/8" plate. A Railroad spike serves as the handle which is now about 5/16 or better square. How would you join the two? I assume a forge weld or rivets. I also considered a collar and forge weld. Problem is my welding is not too great yet but I think I can manage if I get the joint right. I prefer a joint that I can assemble well enough such that welding involves only one piece (not having to put the two together for the weld).

Any suggestions on how to make this joint up? Rivets seem a bit hard to do in such a thin handle. But I am open to everything including starting over. IF needed I could post some pics later today

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are these eating utensils, or serving utensils? I make my eating spoons from 5/16" square stock. Fold the dish end back onto itself and faggot weld it. This doubles the mass and you can them flatten, draw and swage the dish. On serving spoons, I use 1/4" square stock for the handle and 18ga sheet for the dish. Then I use 1/8" diameter rivets to attach the dish and handle. Works very well and is sturdy, too. Hope this helps. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Are these eating utensils, or serving utensils? I make my eating spoons from 5/16" square stock. Fold the dish end back onto itself and faggot weld it. This doubles the mass and you can them flatten, draw and swage the dish. On serving spoons, I use 1/4" square stock for the handle and 18ga sheet for the dish. Then I use 1/8" diameter rivets to attach the dish and handle. Works very well and is sturdy, too. Hope this helps. :)

ya i do the same most of the time. rivets are not hard and look good if the holes are in line. if you go for the one piece method it can work also ... depends on how well you can draw out without burning the piece when it starts to get thin...good luck
Link to comment
Share on other sites

heavy copper electical wire will work for rivets the size that used to run from the tranformer to your house
and had a rubber an cloth cover. drill your holes then split your handle at the spoon end.counter sink the
holes on both sides. peen them over good then file of the excess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it is for a table/eating spoon forge it one piece out of about 3/8" stock (upset the bowl end to about 1/2" to get more metal for the bowl or, as someone suggested above, fold the end back and faggot weld it.)

If it is a serving/cooking spoon make the bowl and handle separately and rivet or weld them together. If you started with large enough stock to make the bowl it will be a lot of work to draw out the handle. I'm assuming that you are probably doing a large spoon because a RR spike would be way to big for table use unless you were using a small mine RR spike and then it would be tough to get enough metal for the bowl.

Servingly,
George M.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are these eating utensils, or serving utensils? I make my eating spoons from 5/16" square stock. Fold the dish end back onto itself and faggot weld it. This doubles the mass and you can them flatten, draw and swage the dish.


I've seen the same done with RR spikes. The spike head was folded back and welded to give enough mass to make a ladle.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I seriously doubt that copper rivets in a two piece serving spoon would ever be exposed to enough acidic foods for long enough to cause any copper oxide toxicity. Any oxidation from a brief exposure would likely be removed when it was washed. Also, if you are afraid of crosscontamintion in cracks, etc. I suggest that a ceramic utensil is better. A vitrified surface doesn't hold much of anything if it is regularly washed.

Toxicly,
George M.

PS Copper is pretty toxic to most bacteria.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A wise smith once told me this .

Tack weld the 2 bits together ( ARC ) , put in fire , heat where you want to weld ( get nice & hot ) , Weld " in the fire " .
Take out of fire , flux should almost fall off as it cools a little ,. Hammer the weld to look like a " real " forge weld .

Thank you Bill Epps , a real niffty trick .


Dale Russell

Link to comment
Share on other sites


So when I do a plumbing repair and see all that green on the inside of the pipe - that means my tap water is toxic?
I drink that water daily.

Bill


Only if you rinse your pipes with vinegar (or some other acid) to release it and then drink. Which is where it becomes a problem with cooking. If you're cooking an acidic food the oxides are released from the copper and enter your food.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dear EGreen,

Most of the copper pots, etc., at least in the 18th and 19th centuries were tinned to avoid the problem. I have always considered the copper pots and pans from the mideast which are tinned to be more likely to have been actually used or made for use with food while the plain ones are made for the tourist trade.

I was at the Grand Bazzar in Istanbul last year and at one stall I stopped at it appeared that most, if not all, the older appearing items were tinned while a smaller proportion of the shiny, new items were.

Cautiously,
George M.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...