I'm in the middle of building a hanging pan rack, the main frame is riveted together already and it's only been wire-wheeled.

What can i apply at this point that will make it rust resistant hanging in kitchen?

Bees wax, or bees wax with turpentine and linseed oil, or clear coat it. You could also patina it and then clear coat it. Also, you could leave it a natural finish and brush it with a brass wire brush to give it a little color. Good luck.

It will need to be cleaned as oil/grease from frying tends to build up in the kitchen; so use something food safe and easily replaced on a semi regular basis.

What I would have suggested would be to do it from Stainless Steel

Dave, how to apply the beeswax now it's cold and half complete?

Thomas, do stainless steels retain their stainless qualities when forged, i thought it would need electropolishing or something afterwards?

If you solution the alloys and quench they are quite rust resistant. Electo polishing or passivation are needed for very tough environments! I like the black of hand forged stainless. I've done an eating set that has gone 20 years of abuse---acidic foods, dishwasher cycles, etc and never was passivated or electropolished and has never rusted---and it's several stainless alloys, 440C for the knife and random common scrap for the fork and spoon.

thanks very much, might get myself some for the next one

Thomas,
What do you mean by "solution" the alloys?

A crude explanation, Patrick please feel free to refine it...: The chrome tends to get tied up in crystals in the stainless. If you heat it to such a temperature that it goes into "solid solution" and then quench it fast enough that it doesn't form the various crystals it has a more even distribution and greater availability to to form the oxides you want at the surface for the "stainless" effect.

thanks for that explanation

Dave, how to apply the beeswax now it's cold and half complete?

Complete it first, then apply a finish, If you are bothered about it rusting whilst waiting, apply a dewatering fluid.

You can then finish it how you wish, wax, oil, lacquer or paint. Just prepare properly and you should have minimal problems. If its waxed it will need to be maintained regularly, A lot will depend on the location and usage as to which finish is preferred.

I may suggest Guilders Paste ( multiple colors available + mix to your desired color ) and then clear coat with solvent based lacquer. This is what I use for most interior forged works such as fire screens, furniture, lighting etc. Maintenance with this finish is not required.
For a quick finish on the clear coat, you can us clear wood finish (CWF) in rattle cans. Satin is preferable and after 2 coats it becomes a little more glossy, depending upon how heavily you apply it, than I prefer. The uptick is that the gloss mellows somewhat after time. This is strictly an indoor finish.
John

thanks guys