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I Forge Iron

Critic my first forge (still in work)


raven154

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So this is my first forge. Still needs some work but getting closer whenever I find time to work on it. I was in a hurry when I layed out the burners and forgot to add the door to the measurement. Door is 3" and the burner sits back 7". I might just add a third burner tube and slide my two forward with a plug in the back hole until I can afford to build another burner. Should be good for forge welding with three burners.

Anyway, forge is 10" diameter and 24" long. Haven't measured how thick it is but as you can see, it's pretty thick stuff. Should hold up well. I've got some 1" kaowool and some fire brick in the mail and already have some ITC-100 to coat it all with. I'm getting anxious!

Well what do you think? Anything I can improve on beside the burner placement? I'm gonna build and adjustable stand that slides in and out the front to rest the longer work pieces on.

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Looks very well-built. It will certainly take a lickin' and keep on tickin'!

I wouldn't worry too much about a third burner at this point. Having the first burner so far back from the front won't present a problem for 90% of the forging you're going to do, but I would advise that you built a plug that you can slide in to the chamber to shut off a portion that you're not using. Being 2' long, you'll be heating a very large portion of that forge for no good reason even if you're making a long blade. For bringing a long blade to temp for the heat-treat portion, sure. But for general forging, you can only work 4" or so at a time. A plug in between the two burners would save you a ton of fuel....

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That's a good idea. I'll look into building something to slide in there, just not sure how I would do it. I also thought about making a flat door to replace my 3" door and also take off 3" on the back end and use that for the front since the burner would be closer. I could always us the hole in the door to slide the longer pieces in. But like you said, if I ever wanted to heat an entire blade, this would be nice.

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For the plug, I would simply use some of that koawool you have coming. Cut it, coat it with ITC100, and stick it in there. Doesn't need to be a super-tight fight.

To help with the door, I would finish what you've started, but pin the hinge so the entire door can be removed. Then, when you needed a smaller chamber, you can simply remove the door and use stacked fire bricks to cover the opening.

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Yeah the hoses feed from a "T" and it's feed off a single line with an adjustable 0-30psi regulator. I didn't build the t into the burners because at the time I wasn't sure how far apart they were going to be. I installed the valve on each burner so I could run just one or both depending on what I need. And if I make the plug to make the smaller chamber, I might need to close the last burner.

And that is what I plan on doing for the door. It will be completely removable. The hinge pins will be welded on the door side and just slid in holes welded to the forge.

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I'm a little concerned about running exhaust back through. I'm assuming that the large pipes the burners are mounted in are to preheat the fuel/gas mix---or will you stuff kaowool around the burner pipes?

Re-running exhaust spikes the CO output---perhaps a baffle to help direct any exhaust away from the intake?

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Yeah the tubes are just to mount the burners and will be sealed off with some kaowool. With the first burner so far back from the door, the burners should get plenty of fresh air. And all my work will be in a well ventilated area with plenty of fresh air.

Got some more work done today. Didn't make the hinges like I was going too but I still made it removable. Rough cut them with the band saw and squared them with my mill. Looks overkill and probably is but I want the hinges to match the rest of the forge lol now all I have to do is shorten the hinge pin and weld a ring to the top and that will be set. Still trying to get used to welding with my new (to me) Millermatic 250 so the welds could look better, but its not going to fall off lol My wool and brick shipped this morning. Gettin antsy!

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Knowing what the inside diameter is is an important factor. How many burners you need is a direct result of how many cubic inches they are to heat and how hot. The shape of the fire chamber is also an important factor but less so than it's volume.

One well made and tuned 3/4" naturally aspirated linear burner will bring around 300 cu/in to welding temps reliably. had you made ejector type burners you could get up to 350 cu/in per burner. So, telling us the outside dia. of the shell isn't very informative, we'd have to guess to say anything about burner number, quality, etc.

The length might be problematical if the chamber is 24" long. In that case you'll be better off calculating the length at whatever the inside dia. is that equals 300 cu/in and place one burner in the center of each area.

Another factor to consider is just how long a piece you're going to be able to work. Forging you'll only be able to work short lengths, say 4-6" with any effectiveness. However for doing long bends and twists all that length can come in handy, of course you can simply pass a long piece back and forth through a shorter chamber but . . .

In any case what you've done looks to be pretty good, welds may not be perfect but they're plenty good for the purpose. hinges look well made and well hung. All in all it'll be a good working forge with a little tweeking.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Well I was going to run an ID of 8" but that puts me at 1105 ci or so at 22" long. Thats a lot of propane. If I run an ID of 6", then it comes down to a more manageable 621 ci at 22 long. Now if I double the insulation on the ends and go 20, then I'm right at 565 and that's pretty good. If I plug the last 12" and run 6" ID and 12 deep that puts me past optimal for one burner at 339 ci put still within the realm of what I will be doing most of the time. Then I can pull the door and with the last 12 plugged puts me at 254 ci.

So it should suit me pretty well. I would like to have the 8" ID but like I said, I can't afford that unless I go waste oil. I still may shorten it and keep the bigger diameter. Not entirely sure yet. 8" ID isn't much insulation. I bought enough wool to make it 6" and still make the end caps and possible a plug. I also found a bunch of old red clay brick in the dumpster last night from what appears to be a fire place remodel. So I can always pull the door and run brick for a little more efficiency.

In fact, I was a little anxious and stacked the brick today and just shoved my burners in the front and made this!

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I didn't think it was to bad considering I've never done this lol I think this will be the handle to a simple steak turner for my dad.

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Well I got some more done! Works very well! It's a little deep lol but I did make a plug for the back. So I shouldn't use too much fuel. I don't have it pictured but I was able to put the ITC-100 in and it looks great. Hopefully by tomorrow morning I can turn the burners on low and help cook come of the water out. I coated my plug and the top of my bricks too so that should also help keep some heat in the metal.

Now I need to build the work stand for the front and make a latch for the door and throw some paint on it.

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Excellent work, hoss. Your forging looks very good, with a even taper and minimal hammer marks. You'll go far if you keep that quality up!


Thanks!

Well the ITC-100 coating didn't go so well. I guess I layed it on a little thick and it cracked in several places. It made a HUGE difference in the heat I feel coming out of the front door though. I was amazed at how much more uncomfortable it was to be in front of the fire even after the burners were off. I was going to buy some more just to skim over the cracks but I guess the price has gone up since the last time I bought. I seem to remember paying $30 for a pint about a year ago and now it's 70-90 for a pint! I couldn't believe it! Anybody have any left over they want to sell me just to patch some cracks? Or any idea what else's I can use? I just need a little. Considering a pint did my whole forge.
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Well I got my steak turner finished. I was in a bit of a hurry because I was trying to finish it before I had to come to work. There are a few ding marks from me trying to draw it out. The block of steel I'm using has really sharp corners I need to dress up. Anyway, my first ever complete blacksmith project as little as it may be lol

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Now I'm working on a planter hanger for my moms Christmas present.

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This is hopefully what it will turn out like. I will probably weld the top and bottom together with the Miller and then take some 1/4" rod and just tap a bunch of small flats everywhere and then wrap the weld with the rod. Just not sure how to finish the lashing off.

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I've also thought about lashing it with copper since the weld will hold the weight. The black look with the copper lash should look nice. And it's original. I mean I looked around for some ideas but I haven't seen this particular design yet so at least it will be one of a kind.

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Well almost done. Didn't turn out like the picture but close enough. I still need to find something to lash it with. Well what do you think for my second project?

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I do have a question about my work though. On my steak turner, the loop in the handle turned out pretty good without much scale. The flower pot on the other hand, where I drew down and made the scrolls, the metal looks like it was rusty and I wire wheeled it. Now, I have no idea what kind of metal it is. It's actually a recycled plant hanger that stuck in the ground at one time. But it was nice and clean and just from the heat and hammering, it looks very aged. My forge is set up just like it was on the steak turner and appears to have a pretty neutral flame. Any ideas? Just crappy metal? To rich? To lean? I can get a close up of one of the scrolls if need be.

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