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I Forge Iron

New Forges on the way


Fe-Wood

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I have been working on getting some portable forging stations together for CBA's education tent.
Its all about fabrication at this point. I will be using Brian Brazeal's forge as the model. I built 1 a couple years ago. I have a few modifications I will be making.

If you were to build one, what features would you include? Always looking for ideas-

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Having moved those CBA forges on Sunday during the cleanup at Fritz's, I'd suggest lift out firepots, Easy trailer hitch blower attachments and sizing all the piping to standard dryer hose. (didn't have nearly enough piping to aspirate all the forges that were there)

As we were working, 3 and sometimes 4 to a forge, you might suddenly find yourself on the wrong side of the forge as the guy who was turning the blower stepped away to the anvil, and several of us would have to reach around from the non-handle side of the blower to keep the air going.

Cockamamie idea came to mind, how about at least one forge on some sort of durable turntable or pivot? Of course, the idea of a carousel of hot coal and iron has all sorts of safety concerns. I did say it was a cockamamie idea.

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Michael,
I thought the one forge not burning had more to do with ambition. I like the trailer hitch mount idea (thats why I chose Champion Blowers) Pivots would be hard... 4 to a forge is tough but think of the friendship that can be made....

Drewed-
I bought these from Roger Lorance, he is in Illinois- nice guy, super easy to deal with AND the best fire pot on the market IMHO

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I thought I had seen Brian Brazeal using a shear attached to his forge table on a UMBA video. I didn't get a good look at it but it's one thing that has been stuck in my mind pretty solidly ever since then. It seems like a great idea to me and is on my list of things to find out more about as is.

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Clinton I believe has it right. I also had been thinking an extendable arm that can be tightened in place to mount underneath it would be a great idea to go with it. An extension like an L on it's side with the lower leg pointed up to slide the stock to butt up against so one could fast and efficiently cut the same length for multiple pieces. A wing nut or something underneath to tighten it in place or loosen as needed would be convenient and like Clinton said it'd work to support longer pieces also.

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Fe-Wood,

I am interested in getting one of those fire pots (probably in the spring). Could you show me the bottom?

What are you doing for a tuyere / ash dump? Does Roger sell those? I don't want to contact him until I am comfortable spending the money.

I have also read that the clinker breaker does not spin on those, but you just shake it. This doesn't make much sense to me since they look like a shape made for turning and the shaft looks round.

Thanks,
Bill

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It is a tailgate shear, a guy with a mill could make one easy
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It just has some slots to hold bar stock 1/4'', 5/16'',& 3/8''
I would also look at the extend-able arm to support a long piece that Brian uses


All,

Take a look at this thread Entry #34 shows Brian's setup using his shear. I believe that Centaur Forge sells these still, I saw them about 5 years ago when i was there.



Brian P
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Rather than a longer handle on the shear using a compound lever will multiply your leverage withought being in the way. Check out a bolt cutter for an example to copy.

Those look like darned nice firepots and a large table would be fine for up to four people with a little cooperation. Being crowded at a forge isn't a bad way to learn cooperation so I'd be tempted to set it up that way just because. The biggest problem I've had sharing a fire is having the other guy just start cranking the blower for "his" largeish stock when I was doing a finish heat on a fine finial scroll. In just a couple seconds MY project was a little fireworks display. That resolved itself quickly enough and it's NOT like I didn't do exactly that before so . . . <shrug> Live and learn.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Cross Pein- Roger does sell the ash dump/ air inlet set up. It is just an iron T fitting that you can fabricate yourself. It bolts on to the bottom of the fire pot. The clinker breaker does not spin all the way around, you weld a handle onto it and rock it back and forth to break clinker, then use a fire tool to drag it out.

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