Cross pein hammers - UK

[Joel OF]

Hi folks, do cross pein hammers like this come in different weights? http://anvils.co.uk/...view/121?cat=37

I couldn't believe my luck at finding one of these NEW in a local independent tool shop for £15. It's 3lb which is a bit weighty for the level I'm at and for the type of things I'll be making for now, but I had to have it!

[Glenn]

Cross pein hammers come in many weights, depending on their use and application.

If you are starting out, a 2# hammer is a suggested weight so you can both get used to the weight and not hurt yourself by swinging a too heavy hammer. Once you have developed hammer technique you also build muscle so you can use a heavier hammer if needed.

[timgunn1962]

Cromwell in the UK sell a range of similar styled hammers that seem OK for a beginner and are reasonably priced.

http://www.cromwell.co.uk/index.php?q=0&p=browse&c=031210&ss=hammer

Metric weights, so the 0.8 kg is a bit under 2 lb and the 1 kg is a bit over.

[Joel OF]

Cheers. That website looks good. I'm going to go back to the shop tomorrow to see what other weights he can get in. It's not so much strength that I'm concerned about, it's more the size of the face and pein for small/beginner bits I want to try making.

[tzonoqua]

Personally I don't care for that hammer that vaughan's sells, I was bought one as a gift when i was first starting out, it feels awkward. It just hangs on my hammer rack collecting rusty dust now. Much better to start with a lighter one, a ball pein modified works too or try the ones suggested, I can't say whether they are good or not as I've not used them. Good luck, pretty soon you will get a feel for what works for you.

[ThomasPowers]

Modifying the handle can sometimes make a hammer much more "friendly". If the hammer is heavy for you try it with a really short handle.

[pkrankow]

Modifying the handle can sometimes make a hammer much more "friendly". If the hammer is heavy for you try it with a really short handle.

Choke up and try before you cut. Then again replacing a handle is a basic skill...

I also use a spokeshave and adjust the shape of the handle, then I put a wrap of electrical tape at 10 inches (about 25 cm) from the head and try it. I can move the tape and pretend my handle is a different length. I lop it off when I am happy, usually after 2-3 forging sessions.



Phil

[Alec.S]

in response to the above statements, i would rekomend starting with a 3 lbs or OVER hammer. You will be forcing yourself too much with a ligher hammer, trying to hit it too hard with too much effort - bigger hammer, less effort. Try a heavy hammer and you will never look back and you will never be as tired again!

alec

[Joel OF]

Cheers for all the replies I'll give it a few tries before making any decisions about reshaping the handle. As it is the handle has a taper near the head which makes it feel slightly lighter when your holding it 'short'.

I tried looking up the brand name on the internet but didn't find anything. It says "Village Blacksmith America's premier tools since 1898"...made in China haha.

[rockstar.esq]

I've seen some very precise and detailed work done with large hammers. Brian Brazeal has a video on you tube demonstrating how he uses a rounding hammer. The leaf he forges is quite delicate. It's the smith not the tool.

I doubt you'll get a consensus on much other than you should try out different types and see what works best for you. I'm currently trying out the Hofi style hammer which is requiring me to think more about how I approach forging.

I second the handle modification comments. Shorter handles make hammers feel lighter. Longer handles can make for a faster swing. I've seen lots of farriers with light hammer heads on long handles. They're moving thin stock quickly.

I don't recall where I read it but there was mention that high velocity blows from a lighter hammer tend to upset steel closer to the struck surface whereas heavier, slower blows tend to upset steel more central to it's mass.

[GNJC]

A while ago the DIY shop Homebase were selling what they called 'flooring' hammers for less than £5, these were a fair-looking 800g cross-pein.

The hammer I start forging most bits with is a very old 3 1/2 lbs straight pein, it moves the metal well without needing to be forced down. After that I have cross peins at 3lbs, 2lbs and 1 1/2 lbs, different jobs need diferent hammers. I prefer a cross / straight pein hammer for general forging, a ball pein is only used for rivets and raising / doming. I think if I had to choose just one I'd choose the big straight pein.

That written, I know a farrier in the next village who only ever uses a 2lb ball pein when he isn't making shoes, and he can do some pretty good things with it too.