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Worn old anvil I.D. too many LARGE photos


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Is this the anvil you were talking about Tim? If it is well, i don't think it is the same type anvil as mine is. For one thing it says that this one weighs 70 pounds, mine weighs 100 and that is without the missing face!


http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/clean-70-lb-vulcan-blacksmith-anvil-dated-1895-no

I think i might try a little more grind testing to determine the exact areas where the sparks act like steel and where they act like cast iron, that should be useful information... Any more suggestions?

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Is this the anvil you were talking about Tim? If it is well, i don't think it is the same type anvil as mine is. For one thing it says that this one weighs 70 pounds, mine weighs 100 and that is without the missing face!


http://www.worthpoin...l-dated-1895-no

I think i might try a little more grind testing to determine the exact areas where the sparks act like steel and where they act like cast iron, that should be useful information... Any more suggestions?
They made them in different sizes. I am starting to feel like I am being trolled.
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Repairing that is going to be time consuming and expensive. Why even bother repairing?

You have a neat conversation piece, a swage block, and a usable hardy and debated horn (is it broke or is it "dressed" with weld hmm...) If the horn is in fact broken then you will need to remove it and reattach it.

Phil

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Better How? More definitive, yes; but not cheaper or easier! I can run the spark test and have an answer before I could even make it to town to buy acid and polishing materials.

If you are bleeding out what is better---the sterile designed for the purpose bandage in the med kit back home; or the dirty bandana you have on site in your pocket right now!


Thomas, there are always things that we will know, things that we will partially know, and things that we think we think we know but may not. I do not really care about the anvil in question. I thought that there were things about it that were knowable if the inquiry included objective analysis. I do not doubt that you can make an accurate identification of iron and its alloys based on a spark test, but it is an acquired skill. Simple ferrous crystalography can be taught to any trade school welding or machinist beginner such that he can make a reliable identification of any common piece of iron or steel. I got my introduction to it (and blacksmithing) as a high school kid in the Natchitoches Parish trade school in 1965. That is also where I learned the spark test.
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Repairing that is going to be time consuming and expensive. Why even bother repairing?

You have a neat conversation piece, a swage block, and a usable hardy and debated horn (is it broke or is it "dressed" with weld hmm...) If the horn is in fact broken then you will need to remove it and reattach it.

Phil



I don't see any crack on the bottom of the horn, nor any weld down there so the horn presumably never actually parted from the rest of the anvil. I don't understand why whoever owned the anvil before welded it, any ideas why?
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My guess is some previous owner started to have the wild hair of repairing it, and did some test welds on it. If you strip all the paint off there may be more information visible in the metal how the previous welds took, what material was used, and the like.

It could be like an ASO in my possession and the welding on it is "just practicing" and will probably get some more "just practicing" done to it.

I still think that trying to repair this is expensive and time consuming. If this is a learning experience with intention for a future project, failure being a valid option, it may be worth it, but it will still be expensive and time consuming.

Phil

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The original intent was to fix it and use it, but I realize that it would probably cheaper to buy another better anvil but I have already learned a lot from it (actually it was mainly you guys) such as the spark test for example, and I am determined to atleast figure out what kind of metal it is made of, so yes it is basically a learning experience. Thanks so much for all of your great help!

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  • 4 months later...

                                      ************************************     UPDATE     ***************************************

 

I have been using my anvil, without any repair, by flipping it upside down and using the bottom of the anvil as its face. Whenever I need to use the hardy or the horn, I simply flip the anvil right side up again. Then I flip it back upside down so that I can use the "face" again. Surprisingly the anvil is very steady upside down, though it doesn't look like it should be. I still do not know exactly what kind of metal it is made of, but I think, despite the fact that it doesn't look like it should be, I think, that it is cast steel. But honestly I don't care anymore what it is made of, all that I care about is that it WORKS GREAT!

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