matto Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 what is the hight for a wind/heat shield on a riviters forge? for a portable demo forge would just a heat/wind shield be ok or would it be better to make a hood for it? is it ok to make a different forge pan than what the original pan was? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimsShip Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Here's my completely inexperienced opinion.. 1. I don't beleive there's a set height requirement for the forge. It would only protect the fire if it's back is to the wind anyway, so i would guess it would have to be at least as tall as the forge is wide so that the wind wouldn't just blow over the top and hit the far end of the fire. (Did that even make sense? In my head it did...) 2. I'm thinking of making a small hood for my rivet forge not only to help raise the smoke higher than eye level (I hope!), but also because it would shield the sun a bit and help me see the color of the metal in the fire more accurately. 3. OK by who? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted May 31, 2012 Author Share Posted May 31, 2012 jimsship the pan i want to rebuild is a champion with a champion 400 on it looks like the one that was posted a few days ago. as for the heat/wind shield i will play around. i have just seen some in old ads for pump handle forges and other cast base style forges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 It depends. I started as a farrier in the "olden days" and many of us had coal forges in our rigs (pickups). Working outdoors everyday, you would want a complete enclosure with only a front opening to the fire. It is so disconcerting to have the wind change directions constantly with an open fire and no enclosure. In addition, you can see the heat colors within the shade of the enclosure. The heat color in the sunlight appears darker than when it's in shadow. I was on a budget when I started shoeing, so my first solution was a 55 gallon drum above and surrounding the forge. I cut a hole in the bed of the pickup to receive my firepot/ash dump. Later, when I got money ahead, I built a more decent square sheet-metal enclosure with a short 6"D flue and coolie cap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 I have a hood and stack on my portable forge, I like the fact that it can more of less block the wind, and makes it easier to see the fire and colors. But for smoke control, you still end up eating a bit, if the wind decides to swirl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SReynolds Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 If I recall, the Champion Catalog states these are sun shields. The forges with the larger units are hoods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel S Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 Here are a couple of photos of what I use. It works for the wind, but I like it more for blocking heat and drawing away smoke. Sorry, these pictures aren't the greatest. I can post some more detailed ones this weekend. It is made with three pieces of 8 inch stove pipe, some wire, and nails. Two of the pieces of pipe are fitted normally, with the third formed into a wind/heat shield. The piece of pipe at the level of the forge has an approximately 6 inch half circle cut out of it. It draws very well, making starting fires easy. Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Jones Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 I have a hood and stack on my portable forge, I like the fact that it can more of less block the wind, and makes it easier to see the fire and colors. But for smoke control, you still end up eating a bit, if the wind decides to swirl. just as a thought, you probably need some air inlets at the base of the hood, to allow the smoke to rise, if you cut off the air in at the bottom it will not chimney up as it doesn't have a huge amount of force to drag new air in, try a few slots at the bottom of the hood, just above the firepan and see if it helps with the swirl you are getting out. Chris p.s. I've never tried it on a forge, but part of my day job is designing air ducting for electronics and they have similar problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimsShip Posted June 1, 2012 Share Posted June 1, 2012 I have the Champion 104 in the middle pic. without a hood. Do you think that one is custom made? I'd love to know the specs on it, do you have any other pictures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Several different pics of trailer forge. I have since replaced it. Like Frank said, it needs to be enclosed if you really want control of the air and smoke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimsShip Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 Wouldn't enclosing the whole thing like that prevent you from being able to use long stock? I was thinking of enclosing1/3 of mine and having a hood lip extend over the center. (My forge is square with the tuyere right in the middle.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 There is a sliding door on the back of the hood. No problem with long stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigcity Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 jaime thats a good idea with the stove pipe im gonna try that with my rim/ brake rotor forge :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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