Jump to content
I Forge Iron

What size Fly Press for hot punching?


KYBOY

Recommended Posts

We are thinking about a fly press for hot punching..Stock would be 1" to 2", the punch size would be more of slitter than a punch so your really hot cutting instead of really punching..Would a # 3or #4 be big enough? What do you think? keep in mind it dosnt have to do it in one heat.. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the money, I would go with hydraulic. I have what has been described to me as a #4. It has a 2" 4 start shaft and weighs about 300 pounds. I imagine it will slit that big of material but I'd rather use hydraulics because of the better power. I'd use the fly press to drift open. I'm in the process of making tooling for my fly press that will be used on thinner material.
Here is a picture of 2 drifts and stripper I just finished today. I still need to make the bolster plates.

post-6253-0-34983200-1337302704_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another vote for a #6. That's about the biggest size one man can comfortably operate. And, if you are only going to have one it should be a big guy. Save up and buy a new one. You can wait years and years for the one you want to show up on the used market and they hold their value well so yer not going to save that much. Get the one you want and don't look back. Best tool ever!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now I have a big old school H frame screwpress and I use it to slit/start to drift in 1" high carbon steel---old rock drill shaft---in one heat and it works a treat.

One thing nice is that you know when you have exceeded the working time and can stop before you start cracking/tearing your stock.

It really helps to have high alloy tooling---H13, S7, etc.

Making your "fence" to have a gap where the slitting/drifting is going on lets you flip the piece and still hit the same spot. if your stock is too short for this you can scribe or soapstone lines around the original piece cold when it's aligned and then do pretty well getting it spot on when you flip it when hot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What shape cutters are you who are having success using? I have what is probably a #4 or 5, and I haven't been too happy with using it for slitting or slot punching. My cutters tend to dull and mushroom pretty quickly. I've tried slitters (sharp end) and slot-punch shapes both with square ends on the wide (i.e. not V like some of the handled punches I've seen). Unfortunately I can't seem to cut through the work very quickly, and I end up having to regrind them nearly each time. They were made from S7, forged and left to air-harden (probably in still air, not blown compressed).

But the FP is great for straightening and for drifting, assuming there hole is already there.

don

[Edited a couple of times because it was previously incomprehensible]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What are you slitting and what temperature do you do it at?

My tooling is S1 and H13 with fairly short shafts. I dress as needed but don't notice it being worse than hand hammering the slitter through.

I would say I have a more "appleseed edge" on my slitters smoothly transitioning to the drifter part on those that do.

Have you tried one of the high tech punch lubes if you have a lot to do and so worth the extra effort?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


What are you slitting and what temperature do you do it at?

My tooling is S1 and H13 with fairly short shafts. I dress as needed but don't notice it being worse than hand hammering the slitter through.

I would say I have a more "appleseed edge" on my slitters smoothly transitioning to the drifter part on those that do.

Have you tried one of the high tech punch lubes if you have a lot to do and so worth the extra effort?


My most recent disappointment was probably some 5/8 round at orange-yellow (1800F?). I did use some graphite powder in the hole but I have since gotten a bit better lube (graphite/wax mix which paints on nicely) which I used for drifting and find to be pretty effective. I've probably tried some Never-Seize also.

I might try again with the improved lubing method and maybe make more of a V shape, which is what I take "apple-seed" to be (rounded, curved V)?

Thanks,

don
Link to comment
Share on other sites


It backs up the edge a bit more than a straight V, it's a common edge in knifemaking though.


I thought you were just describing it, but now I see it is a technical term...I searched "apple seed" and "knife" and I got it.

Thanks.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...