Ridgewayforge Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Before I put my little 35 pound railroad track anvil through its paces, I wanted to know whether it would be adventageous to harden it first. Its an old piece with a fair amount of rust on it. Should I get it cherry red and quench before use? Thanks! ~Ridgewayforge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 No, it should be fine like it is, happy hammering! If it's pitted grind and dress the face that's all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgewayforge Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 Thanks! I'll use it right away then! The face is in remarkably good shape- all brown but no pitting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 The best way to clean the metal is to hammer hot iron on it for 8-10 hours. For those that are using Rail Road track for anvils, just get a 20 foot section of track and bury it 17 feet +/- into the ground, leaving the proper amount sticking out of the ground for use as an anvil. This puts all the mass of the track directly under the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgewayforge Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 Thanks Glenn, I'd stick it in the ground, but its only 7 inches long. :unsure: Right now I think I'm going to clamp it to a railroad baseplate 1/2" thick. That should give it a bit more mass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Glenn, What was the cost for the rent on the pile driver? :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 Glenn, I don't think I could get a 20' section to stand upright to slip it into a 17' hole in my shop floor. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pault17 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 I was gonna try this, but my wife refused to let me drop a hole through our roof, master bedroom, into the garage. back to the drawing board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 Paul; no problem! If you heat the rail to about 2000 degF you should be able to just bend it and slide it into the hole straightening the bend as it goes. For a full heat treat on a chunk of rail Alexander Weygers The Complete Modern Blacksmith goes into details as he advocates annealing the rail to put a hardy in it and then re-hardening. Most of us are not that gung-ho... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 If the rail did not bend then any amount of concrete would not be the problem when using a big pile driver....unless it had lots of rebar and very good concrete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 Thanks Glenn, I'd stick it in the ground, but its only 7 inches long. :unsure: Right now I think I'm going to clamp it to a railroad baseplate 1/2" thick. That should give it a bit more mass. Drill the base flange in 4 places, and use 4 large lag bolts to fasten it to a large log for added mass. If you can bury the end of a long log. A stable well supported system will make a light anvil perform much better than trying to add a small amount of mass to it. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgewayforge Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Here is what I've got, pre-spiked down. And some more detail on the plate. Now, do you think it would work if I left one of the holes hang over the edge of the log to serve as a Hardy Hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Here is what I've got, pre-spiked down. And some more detail on the plate. Now, do you think it would work if I left one of the holes hang over the edge of the log to serve as a Hardy Hole? Ah HA! Good. The hardy would be "light duty" but could work for you. It might bend if you wailed on it too hard. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciladog Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 When I first started out back in 1973 I made this anvil from a railroad track. I found a railroad siding that had lots of old track piled up and I took a hand hacksaw and cut me a piece of track. Today you would get arrested for doing that. But back then, nobody cared. I had bought a book, The Modern Blacksmith by Alexander Weygers that showed how to make an anvil from a railroad track and I followed the directions. I did it with just a drill, a file, and a hand held grinder. I heat treated it according to his directions. I used this anvil for many years. My point is that you get out of your efforts what you put in. Functionality is one thing and pride is another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Rail anvils are usually pretty well work hardened so for the size of stock that can be accommodated on them that surface is usually suitable as is. If you are going to work heavier stock then I think you should reinforce the web with some heavier plate as this is the weak point on the rail anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgewayforge Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 I don't know if this piece was ever used, I think it may have been cut off of new rail when they put it in. I tried it out yesterday, worked like a charm! It had considerable advantage to just the baseplate, which I was previously using. As to the hardy-hole, I figure it'll work well enough- if it breaks I've got two more baseplates I can use! And Ciladog, I respectfully disagree! :) I put minimal amount of effort into this, and already I'm reaping some great benefits! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciladog Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 I put minimal amount of effort into this, and already I'm reaping some great benefits! And that says it all, respectfully :rolleyes: .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Don't hang it over the edge---drill a hole in the log under where the sq hole will be---if you want the hole sq. Drill it under sized and pound a piece of hot sq stock in to make it square. I found that old rail tended to be easier to use than new rail as new rail is crowned and so work slops on it whereas old rail has been worn flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evfreek Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Don't hang it over the edge---drill a hole in the log under where the sq hole will be---if you want the hole sq. Drill it under sized and pound a piece of hot sq stock in to make it square. ... I have had better luck heating the plate with the undersized hole in it rather than the square stock that is being pounded in. But, do make sure to use your drill to best advantage. For the beginner, this is the most effective way to remove metal. When you get better, a cutting torch is more effective. Try both, but the drill somehow works better if you (or your buddy with the torch ;) ) is not so skillful with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ridgewayforge Posted February 24, 2012 Author Share Posted February 24, 2012 Here's what I did with the hardy hole. It's only draped about 1 1/2 " off the log, so its fairly sturdy. And if it breaks, I won't sweat it. I've always got a few more baseplates that I can use. And here it is, all come together and rather useful! I really appreciate all of the advice that you all gave me, I always enjoy learning more about this craft! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Looks like a winner, for the time being. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.