mfm22 Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I'm going to need a base for my 138 # saw some different base's built up 2x12's or framed box types I'm going to use in my garage looking preserve concrete floor best as I can any plans /ideas welcome its a small area so I need to incorporate tool holders as well. not going to do stump - insect issues may arise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudbugone Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Piece of log would be my bet (cheap easy & simple)...both to absorb any impact issues to the floor and deaden sound.... As for insects there are ways to treat the log to prevent that and besides they like 2x12's as well as they like logs...wood is wood and the only other option is steel.... which is fine if you have a welder and the material to build it with feet to protect the concrete and place it on rubber pads too. (Hockey pucks?) Even on a steel base I think I'd place the anvil on a wood pad in the top of the steel base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Einhorn Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I have used scrap wood, 2 by 6s are shown in the photograph. You can also use 2x4s or just about anything else you can scavenge. To protect from ground insects you can either use a layer or two of treated lumber, and/or treat the bottom with a range of chemicals from the local big box lumber-flower store. I find these stands to be nice and light and very stable. The top layer is cut out so that the anvil sits within the cutout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 I'm mounting one now in a steel box of DRY sand. The box is 1/4" plate. Between anvil and sand will be a 3/4" plywood slab fitting well into the box top. Two strap irons with holes either end will fit on the base under the horn and heel angles. I've got 4 allthread lengths welded on the near and far sides of the box, at the proper angles to go through the holes. Tighten down with 4 nuts and washers, and "Bob's your Uncle!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Using treated lumber is a bad idea as the stump often gets scorched by hot iron. Drops, cut offs tools and finished work often end up on the floor to cool. Sometimes accidentally against the anvil base. Burning treated lumber is a big NO! NO! because it can release toxic fumes. A stump that is not rotted should have no bugs in it. If you like the stump idea just look for a log from your local tree guy. The problem with those stack of lumber bases is they tent to be springy because there is always some space between the boards and lumber is more compressible when the grain is runs horizontal to the anvil. The anvil should be placed on the end grain of the lumber or stump. We had one like the one shown above, you could feel the difference between one of those and a stump. The anvil on the stacked lumber base felt spongy almost like it was on a shock absorber. Franks idea is top notch by the way. Also fixing or patching you garage floor is as simple as getting some concrete patch and following the directions it is often a quick and easy job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 You can use a steel tri pod mark aspery has a plan in his first book. They are nice because you can move them if you need to and are very stable. I can't get my picture to come up but it is in the anvil form under my anvil stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudbugone Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I have used scrap wood, 2 by 6s are shown in the photograph. You can also use 2x4s or just about anything else you can scavenge. To protect from ground insects you can either use a layer or two of treated lumber, and/or treat the bottom with a range of chemicals from the local big box lumber-flower store. I find these stands to be nice and light and very stable. The top layer is cut out so that the anvil sits within the cutout. David...I was looking at that picture with the square rod sticking out of the sq. hole in your "Mousehole" Mine has the hole too (front too) but I thought they were used to lift the anvil while forging them... Do you use that hole like a hardie hole ? or did you place that sq. into the anvil to silence any ringing ? Just curious since I was cleaning my Mousehole up today (with the heel broken off) and examined that sq. hole while I was cleaning it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigred1o1 Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 i think if you look at the photo again you will see that is a second hardie tool sitting on the far side of the anvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seldom (dick renker) Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 if you scroll down on this page there is a section called my anvil stand, about 6 pages worth. Wood and steel. Good luck Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfm22 Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Thanks I'll look for it , I'm not having much luck with the search feature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudbugone Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 i think if you look at the photo again you will see that is a second hardie tool sitting on the far side of the anvil LOL...I think you're right... I was stumped as to why anyone would insert a sq. rod into that hole....but I had to ask....Too Funny ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yesteryearforge Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drewed Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 I had an anvil stand made of 4x4 lumber (treated) with the 4x4 running vertically. It worked just fine. I still use this on my back-up / cutting anvil. My main anvil is mounted to a stump as it is heavier and less tippy. You can see it behind me in this picture. Yes, those are burn marks on the sides. Did that on purpose to show just hot hot back metal can be! I guess you could glue/screw on a non-treated lumber top to it, for the burning issue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seldom (dick renker) Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Ugly legs :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timothy Miller Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Just to clarify an anvil placed on the end grain of wood is much better than one placed across the grain. Wood is much less compressible on the end grain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matto Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 here are a couple of metal stands. one is a four leg this is my tri-pod stand Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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