Don A Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I have been asked to make a portable sign hanger for a gentleman. Here is a rough, preliminary sketch of what I'm going for: What would be my best bet for joining the cross piece to the upright? Pierce the upright? Pierce the cross piece? Is there any way to maintain the stock dimension on either side of the joint? This is a new one on me. Thanks, Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 What are the dementions? What is the budget? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
781 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Need to know the size material you plan to use. If for instance you are using 1/2" for both pieces you can slit and drift but the joint will be 1" wide If the upright is 1/2" and the horizontal is 1" by say 3/8" you can punch a hole and still have the joint 1" wide You can do a half lap and maintain same dimension, I think a recent hammers blow had and article on that joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 A nice forge weld would spiff it up---and allow a consistent size through the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Various options spring to mind here. What do you mean by portable, and how does the sign hang, Dimensions are not that critical at this time, so long as they are proportional and suitable for the sign it is to bear, methods are the question. You can make it so it can be assembled at site, or make it as one piece You can as already been said for a solid item Forge weld Pierce and split Half lap joint will have to be rivetted or brazed to give a solid piece I would also suggest if using a half lap joint to spread the joint rather than cut it in like a halving joint, this would give the opportunity to use a bolt to secure the two parts together. You do not mention attaching the scroll This could be done using collars/clips or rivets(bolts will allow assembly) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Sorry for the void in my description. It will probably be from 1/2" square stock. And by portable, I mean that it will only be about 3' tall and will have prongs that can be pushed into the ground. For those familiar with the various historic reenactments and trade fairs, picture the shingle hung in front of a vendor's tent. This one is for a lantern maker, so he wants the sign in the front and a latern hung from the back. Good suggestions all. I hadn't considered the half-lap. I'll keep you posted with what I come up with. I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Strongly suggest you make it demountable for transportation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todoned Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Say he needs to pound it into the ground a bit... the top will make that difficult, unless you can remove the upper ornamentation. I agree with Thomas, you should make it so he can take it apart. You can still use traditional techniques. I would be tempted to pass the top bar through the upright, and use some sort of wedge to attach it to the scroll bracket... of course I can't quite see how to do that, with the scrolls on both ends of the top bar... but it looks like a fun project! -Tod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 If he has two or three feet at the base, these can be firmly pushed with foot or hammer to locate them in the ground, no need to pound in from the top. Personally I think 1/2" is inadequate for a sign stand to command attention, and it is easily bent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Rivet a couple of small scrolls where the cross bar will rest and design them so their tops will hold the cross bar in position. Make the cross bar such that it has a 1/2" sq hole in it that will fit over the upright and slide down to rest on the scrolls. If you have the capability, upsetting the crossbar to make the section to be slit and drifted would be a nice touch. The problem is with the finial. Having a removable one makes it prone to loss; so to try to keep it looked out for I'd suggest doing a smaller crossbar that you hang a couple of small lantern silhouettes from sheet brass on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dkunkler Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 And by portable, I mean that it will only be about 3' tall and will have prongs that can be pushed into the ground. If it's only 3' tall, the pointy finial may be a impaling hazard. Other than that, I like your design sketch. I'd go with 5/8" stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Another thought. If the customer will pony up the costs making the entire piece out of hammered metal would look very good indeed---a common method would be to start with round stock and hammer it square so that the entire piece is hammered over it's entire surface. You can really tell that it's hand made then and looks much better than mill rolled steel in a historical setting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 All points well taken. Thanks again. I've got some 5/8" hex that might look better and be stronger. Also, I'm not commited to the spear fineal, so something more blunt might be in order. Also, I am planning the "foot" to be a squared "h" shape so it can be pushed into the ground by boot power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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