herchammer Posted October 9, 2011 Share Posted October 9, 2011 I am looking for some instruction on how to bring the heart of the fire up out of the lower part of my fire pot towards the hearth level. I need to do this in order to heat the center of longer pieces of stock. I'm fairly certain this has been discussed here before, but I've not found it. HELP! Thanks for suffering the questions of a new guy. :wacko: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob S Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Maybe you need a better blower. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arean Ellis Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 It may be possible that your clinker is building up. Are you cleaning out your clinker regularly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 In my demo forge (a rivet forge), I lay a fire brick on edge on each side of the fire. This helps make a deeper fire. Works great. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herchammer Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Bob S. I suppose that could be the case, but, I'm using a Canneday Otto hand cranked blower, it seems to put out a lot of air. Arean, I haven't had much clinker build up, but I do watch for it. Thanks CG, I'll give that a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Use more fuel. You should have about 3.5 to 4 inches of coke under your work and 2 to 3 inches on top. The coal on top acts as a refractor. Cone up the fire around the edges with green coal except in front where your work goes in and out. A smith needs to get accustomed to not being able to see the heat, because the work is hidden in coke. Eventually, you'll get a mental alarm in the noggin. Until then, pull the work back and take a peek every now and then. If more heat is needed, replace it, trying to avoid disturbing the fire unduly. Sometimes, you can make a peep hole in the top of the coke pile, so you can see a little of the workpiece. In working long pieces, it's OK to break through the back bank of the fire, keeping your fire rake handy to pull back any coke that might be pushed to the back of the hearth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herchammer Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Thanks Frank, that is the kind of information I was hoping for; you've basically validated what I had conjectured privately. I think I have been skimping on the fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Your fire should regularly be at levels where you can put the iron into the fire level or nearly level with the hearth. You need about 1/3 to 1/2 of the fuel depth above that level. I also like to keep damp green coal banked closely around my fire. This helps to contain it and keep the heat boxed in around my metal. Since you are using a hand cranked blower you may have to give it a little crank once in a while when you have no iron in the fire to keep it hot and ready. I use an electric blower and blast gate and I let it run steady unless I need to adjust the heat or am going to be delayed for a while. Think of your fire as roughly ball shaped with the center hottest. So you need almost half of your ball above the hearth level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herchammer Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 bigfoot, that's what I was thinking, just hadn't thought about how to get that ball of fire elevated in the fire pot. I have no problem heating the end of the work, shoot I've burned more than one piece by getting distracted, but getting the heat in the center of a longer piece, has always been a challenge. I've just been going about it wrong I think. My fire is built too shallow, I don't think I'm taking enough time in the prep to build a good deep fire, and then build on top of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 My fire starts right out at full depth. Use a sprinkler can to keep coal banked around the fire from burning (it will still coke). Instead of building up the fire depth with bricks use wet coal. Push coke into the fire as needed and rebank the sides with more wet green coal. You want several hours worth of fuel piled on the forge. The center ball is burning HOT and the sides of that are coking. The rest of it is just laying there supporting the coking side banks and waiting it's turn to be pushed in. It's handy to just rake more fuel in as needed though you'll need to also add a few shovelfuls to the outer ring now and then as you use it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herchammer Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 I think I'm gettin it, more coal, more wet coal, and more coal.....I'd better get that BAM membership paid,and find the coal captain! LOL.... Thanks so much folks this newbie really appreciates the help! :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 You are getting it! I am really pretty scotch with my coal... unless I need a big fire (for big work) I keep it pretty compact... deep but neither wide nor long. Most of the coal on the forge is just shaping the fire and gently getting coked. A water bucket and sprinkler can are important tools for me. I keep the coal in the bucket wet and the coal on the forge damp. If I need a bigger fire or a longer one I will use my coals to shape it thus and add some air. If I want to weld I like to use a chunk of melted coke as a roof and have three sides banked tight with a loose opening where I put the metal in and out of the fire. This same fire design with a bit less air works well for most general work too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 10, 2011 Share Posted October 10, 2011 Remember that fine coal can coke up down in the firepot forming a solid layer that can block airflow. Sometimes I have to use the poker to "lift the fire" and break up the coke into chunks that air can get around. The shape and depth of your firepot makes a difference too; I don't recall you mentioning it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herchammer Posted October 10, 2011 Author Share Posted October 10, 2011 Tom, the firepot is 8" or 9'" deep, and approximately 5" square in the base and it expands up and out to about 12" or 13" square at the top, or hearth level. It's very heavy; I don't think I've ever noticed any manufacturer's mark on it. I tried more fuel, and lifting the fire today, with some success. I got my heat in the center of my work, but that's as far as I went with it, as I was very limited on time today. Thanks for the information Tom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Criminetley! That is a big firepot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aljeter Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Thats what I was thinking Frank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
double_edge2 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 If you are only looking to heat an inch or two of small stock, cut two through notches in a piece of say 3 or 4 inch pipe at about 5 inches long. .... Notches about inch wide or job size and inch or two down, drop it in your forge as a reducer for your fire pot and smaller localized heat, .... Save a bit of coke....... Maybe, It works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herchammer Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 ok, Frank, Aljeter, your surprise prompted me to actually measure and I will have to revise those initial estimated measurements. 7" deep, appx.3" at base, and 10" square at hearth level. Sorry fellas, guess that's what I get for "off the top of my head" . Ii didn't mean to mislead anyone. Thanks for the idea double_edge2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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