Sam Salvati Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Here are a couple of my new designs for "no welding required" hatchets. Design is copyright me:D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
easilyconfused Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 That's a neat idea! Gonna have to "borrow" it when I get some more time back on the farm, because Copyright laws don't stop me! :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted February 2, 2007 Author Share Posted February 2, 2007 That's a neat idea! Gonna have to "borrow" it when I get some more time back on the farm, because Copyright laws don't stop me! Feel free to, was only kidding. They are great and VERY easy to make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ladysmith Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Hey Sam, Those are really cute! Great idea!!! Pam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted February 2, 2007 Author Share Posted February 2, 2007 Hey Sam, Those are really cute! Great idea!!! Pam Thanks Pam, I am not too good at forge welding(don't get enough practice), and for others who aren't these are great little projects! the chop pretty good to, for a larger axe size or splitting size, just use thicker flat bar. The bar used for these was 2 inch wide by 3/16ths thick. VERY VERY suited to being made from leaf springs. I made each one in about 45 minutes each, all there is to do is point one end of a foot or more of material, bend and counter bend the eye hole halfway, then hammer the whole eye completely over a peice of 1 3/4 inch round bar, then drill and rivet, sharpen and polish(and if you want, engrave some cool stuff into the sides like I did:D, sorry for the bad pictures, my camera doesn't like closeups). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 That's a cool idea. I like the rivets. One suggestion? Take your straight or cross pien and put a fish-tail fuller across the edge, then flatten up and bevel. This will give you that axe blade flair. Set it over the edge of your anvil and drive the top point down for more of a tomahawk flair. Kinda like this: Keep hammerin', Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the_sandy_creek_forge Posted February 2, 2007 Share Posted February 2, 2007 Sam, Nice idea. Do you have any pictures from the top end or bottom end? -Aaron @ the SCF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted February 2, 2007 Author Share Posted February 2, 2007 Yah, i'll get some tonight. THANKS Don, i'll try it on the next one, but I owuld need to start with a little bit hticker material, the stuff I am using now is 2 inch wide by 3/16ths thick. The dark handled one has just a tiny bit of flair to the top and bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Murch Posted February 3, 2007 Share Posted February 3, 2007 Cool. I was just thinking of something similar to this when I saw in a book a tomahawk made from brass with a steel bit riveted on. Neat method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blafen Posted February 12, 2007 Share Posted February 12, 2007 i once tried this on a hawk that unwelded on me i just drilled severeal holes in a fancy pattern adn riveted together the first time i threw it it went past tits target and though a window :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Salvati Posted February 12, 2007 Author Share Posted February 12, 2007 Hehe cool. I find the rivets let you get a better bond with the head and handle, by waiting to rivet the one closer to the handle, until you haver the handle wedge into the head, then clamp and then rivet the last one, it clamps the head to the shaft, making a REALLY tight strong bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 might just do this tomoorow. thank god for spring vacation..... those are great beginer projects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammernhand Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 heres a couple hand hoes ax mixed items iv been selling in wv for the people here who dig wild ramps,the ax is very effective in clearing fourwheeler paths also and i have become fond of carrying my own when out and about.if anyone sees an improvement im open to suggestions thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 Looks like a practical tool for trail work.Mostly what people use,of this type tool,is Pulaski,and this looks much lighter than it's 5 lbs.If you're happy with it's shape/weight,the only thing that one can improve is the eye-shape.If you were to cone out the top,making it a compression eye,like a pick-axe,it would be easier to deal with getting a new handle.Also,it would be easy to un-handle,for sharpening,packing,or whatever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 This 'hawk has a one-piece head...was slit and drifted from a piece of pavement breaker chisel (which also makes GREAT hammers and struck tools). I made this about 20 years ago and it's seen a lot of use. Still on the first handle, too - which came from Dixie Guns Works...I think they were $4-5 back then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 hammerhand i recomend a oval or tear drop ey so it does not spin around. although great no welding required axe. looks pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammernhand Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 these have a wood wedge and brass cross pin retaining the handle now its pretty stable but i can see your point in the replacement area ,it would be hard to replace this handle if it broke in the woods without a punch to remove the brass,thanx ill rework on the next batch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimbob Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 one of my books on old woodworking tool shows and ax shaped like yours, was used to cut the Mortise joint for rail fences I would bet that some were made that way back then also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammernhand Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 iv also tried tomahawks with the forge weld,i believe i made the basic mistake of trying to weld the full lenth of the ax ,now that iv learned a little more ill try to just weld at the eye.it was 6 inches of forge welding but it held it just looks crappy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 heres a couple hand hoes ax mixed items iv been selling in wv for the people here who dig wild ramps,the ax is very effective in clearing fourwheeler paths also and i have become fond of carrying my own when out and about.if anyone sees an improvement im open to suggestions thanks. Neat looking tool but I'm a little confused about the "no-welding-required part"....:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 yeah how do you make a pulaski withou welding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hammernhand Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 mine do require welding i was asking for improvment ,i believe new guy was showing some axes that actually started this talk sorry for the confusion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 It was Sam showing his no weld axes in 2007 that started the thread and it's been revived recently. Don't worry about causing a little confusion, it's good for keeping folk on their toes. Nice tool. Perhaps a little arch back towards the handle on the mattock blade would make it cut better but it might not be enough better to be worth the extra work. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake pogrebinsky Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 yeah how do you make a pulaski withou welding? If you look at the Pulaski head carefully,you'll see that it was built almost like a standard double-bit.Then one side was fullered narrowly-set,right close to the eye,and given a 90 deg.twist.The eye was punched with the standard immense force(making all the modern store-boughten axes tough to duplicate),and,thus was it made, without welding whatsoever... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new guy Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 oh yeah i guess i knida missed that. i always assumed that pulaskis had a welded on hoe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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