basher Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 some good info coming out here . Thanks. and the video looks good too . I do have the motor and mounting plate . I've no idea if the motor runs yet but it turns well . and ebay is full of second hand replacements. The important thing it the cog.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 thanks Grant, you the techno guru!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 I figured what the little valve does , it is connected to the air in to the top of the piston. it is a one way valve that allows air to the very very top of the piston so as to initiate the stroke as the piston may be above the air inlet to the front bore . its one way so thea there is an air resivoir at the top of the stroke to act as a buffer to stop topping out. the spring consists of a flat bottom spring that is the gate and another spring that is bent that should hold it down or act to stop it blowing open . I'll get piccies . what would be the best gasket for re assembling the piston caps ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 here is the valve... and its components I just took the top off of the back piston.... it had been graphite greased and the bore had a film of oil in it....all good.... that was the bottom of the stroke this is top. the bore is 15 inches across and travels 9.5 inches in its stroke..... thats 637 cubic inches ore 10.5 litres ...per stroke. would gasket paste work for re assembly? I am going to leave the vertical surfaces greased and gasket the flanges... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 14, 2011 Author Share Posted July 14, 2011 here is the 200 with the 300 in the background they are extremely similar..... the 300 is newer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 I want to put this puppy back to together tomorrow , would auto Hylomar gasket past work well ? I used it on my little massey but have since read greaseproof paper and am thinking waxed cardboard might be better ? (bigger version of cornflake packet material... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Just some sort of gasket will be good, when Woolies used to use paper bags that paper was a No.1 gasket material. I would normally use a proper gasket material. Don't use insertion rubber it tends to grow and breakdown with oil present and can be a real pain to get off the mating surfaces after a while, if you need to disasemble again. Even 1 or 2 layers of butchers paper would do. If you want to put a sealing goop on the gasket you could use something like never seeze, or my favourite Black Dixons Paste, bush mechanics have been known to use jam for a gasket sealant when nothing else was available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 20, 2011 Author Share Posted July 20, 2011 I blew the motor out and got it wired in , seems to work fine . I ran it throuigh a vfd its a 1939 10 hp motor and draws 9 amps with no load. I have a choice of starting it star delta or through a vfd a second hand vfd is around £150 and a star delta starter around 200 to 250 new..... I imagine a star delta switch is the more longeved of the two but know that a lot of industrial machines are now started up through vfd's..... the hole is now 2.5 foot deep , just another 1.5 to go.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 so I now have the hammer back together and the motor runs and my hole is dug..... I am wondering about rigging a temporary anvil under the ram and wedging it in place and trying to get the hammer to stroke just to check it all over whilst I can access things easily . I have some 8 inch round and railway sleepers ......... I plan on taking it gently.... and running the temp anvil high any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 ooooh, getting closer we need picies ! ive run loads and loads of big hammers with a temp. anvil, you will pretty soon realise the 'limit' when things start moving to much! I have found half a dozen bits of 20mm bar drilled into the ground, around the perimiter of the bedplate to stop it 'walking' to be more effective than trying to hold em down with through bolts. (remember like we did with the anyang 15 kg at your forge in?). youve got a big advantage as your motor is rigid mounted to the hammer so no belts to worry about! tap tap tap, have fun - take a video aswell! (my new 2cwt was moved from its 50 year old foundation today, and is now waiting transport..........) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 I had an interesting conversation about inverters versus star delta starters. apparently the square wave form of the inverter will break down the insulation in older motors..... not a problem if they are rewinds though. so I shall get a star delta starter.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Well, never heard that one, possible I suppose. Rather than re-wind the motor, why not wait until the insulation falls off and then rewind it? Star/delta: Two things about that. You NEVER use control switching or starters in a VFD circuit. The VFD can provide the same "soft-start" all by itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 I am aware of not using both together but thanks for mentioning it . I have paid for one motor rewind and I'll never do it again . its cheaper to get a new motor. or a second hand one and rig the speed through a jack shaft. anyhow the current motor works so ......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 multi post!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 try'd to post a flickr video? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted August 9, 2011 Author Share Posted August 9, 2011 here is a link to video of the hammer working ,I am playing with the rear exhaust valve and hand controle. seems pretty good to me. when going towards full stroke the hammer is sometimes sticking at the top of the cycle. I think the top ram valve could be sticking ?http://www.flickr.co...N00/6026282347/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 :wub: :ph34r: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted August 9, 2011 Share Posted August 9, 2011 In the editor, right next to where it says "Font" is a green box. Click that and choose "media". I don't know if it supports Flickr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmoore Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 I have a Pilkington 3cwt hammer here in New Zealand. I found out that Allday's and Onions bought Pilkington out so the hammers are very similar. I managed to get a copy of the owners manual from Brian Russel (who also owns a pilkington) if you want a copy let me know and i will send it through. Regards, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Furrer Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Chris, Do you know of a small mechanical or air hammer for sale in NZ? I have a friend there casually looking for one. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron woodrow Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 gday chris, i would like a copy of that manual too! i am chasing after a 300cwt pilkington in my local area, and would like to know as much as possible about it before i get hold of it. woody. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 hi , I have some literature and will try and scan it .and post it here so it can be pooled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmoore Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 Hi guys sorry i have not checked in for a while.... If anyone wants a copy just email me. chris@artisticironwork.co.nz And Ric there is a couple on Trademe at the moment but not cheap. http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/manufacturing-metalwork/presses/auction-447370030.htm The seller has two for sale... Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iron woodrow Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 thats cheap in aud.... but shipping's the rub..... :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 well I finaly got the hammer in . bought it last june and somewhere between 18 and 20 man days in it. Probably more........ I finaly got it flying and levitating through the roof the eagle has landed..... I have plumbed it in and all is go. I have still to connect the oiler and foot pedal and flywheel guard and chose a paint color and install the skull and crossbones.and get bashing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.