basher Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 well one hammer left today and another turned up. I want to get this into the ground quick before I don"t ( if you know what I mean.) it looks to be in good nick , all free moving and put away greased..... I am looking forward to painting it and getting it installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Very nice! I don't know how you find them, I've been looking for aaaaages and I can't find anything for reasonable money. Want to give me any tips on sourcing these good quality hammers??? I'm only an hour away - got anything else you need rid of?! Enjoy it! Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DClaville Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 OWEN! what about the 300 then?? hehe that is a lovely looking hammer tho, the big sis to my hammer its got great curves dont it ? congrats on it mate are you gonna keep it gear driven ? might be noisy? before you install it you should to a picture with it next to the 300 with out the tarp just as a fun to have pic ohh and in general just more photos of the hammer you know we love looking at them nearly as much as you to at the real thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 This hammer was on ebay ..... the seller pulled it out because I wanted to use it and not scrap it! ( which I am grateful for , he remembered buying a guillotine from me a few years back) it was on its side and in his drive 25ft from the rd.The hammer has a repaired crack where the slide plate tightens up around the flat of the ram .I do not think it will cause problems . the dies have no wear...I think the army who were the first owners bottomed the hammer out and then stopped using it . hopefully this wont cause me any trouble? I'll strip it all before I commit to foundations. The seller was really good to deal with . we are lucky that most smithing tools in the UK are comparitivly cheap, our brothers in the USA don't have it so easy . getting hammers in the uk is a case of looking out all the time ...for years ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 OWEN! what about the 300 then?? hehe that is a lovely looking hammer tho, the big sis to my hammer its got great curves dont it ? congrats on it mate are you gonna keep it gear driven ? might be noisy? before you install it you should to a picture with it next to the 300 with out the tarp just as a fun to have pic ohh and in general just more photos of the hammer you know we love looking at them nearly as much as you to at the real thing not sure about the 300 or 200 thing ? I figure a 200 will be more usefull to me. I figured buying this hammer and installing it would cost about the same as just installing the big one. I have a few versions of what to do next..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astro_Al Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Wow - not sure how I missed it on ebay, still, sounds like it found the right owner in the end. You think? I find it much easier to find hammer in the USA than here... Good luck with it. Al. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Furrer Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Owen, That is a lovely color of blue as well... I hope it is up and running when I next visit. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 Owen, That is a lovely color of blue as well... I hope it is up and running when I next visit. Ric get your ass over here Ric, I hope its soon , both the hammer and the visit!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Keep us all informed as to how this hammer progresses. I'd be interested to know how she performs. We have one the same, biggest problem with it so far is that the flywheel shows a tendancy to work loose over a years work or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 Keep us all informed as to how this hammer progresses. I'd be interested to know how she performs. We have one the same, biggest problem with it so far is that the flywheel shows a tendancy to work loose over a years work or so. I'll keep this updated as I make progress . you don't have any specific foundation information on this hammer ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratel10mm Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 Hi Owen Here's a plan - come out in October for 'Get Hammered' at Moony's. It's a lot like half way between one of your BB gatherings & Jack-Jack's. And since Phil will be there - and his forge isn't all that far away (in Aussie terms) you can do the research in person! Ian (Longstrider) & his missus came last year & had a great time. Lovely looking hammer mate. Was the one you sold your main shop hammer that you taught me on? All the best Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 10, 2011 Author Share Posted July 10, 2011 I opened up the front end on friday as I wanted to check that the front ram would cycle easily and have a look at the slide that holds the ram in alignment and the ram lip as I have a suspicion that the hammer has been bottomed out at some point . so I jacked the ram out of the top of the piston. and cleaned off the old grease. anc checked that the lip where the rams flat area ends. it showed no damage . I then took out the bronze slide that holds the ram in alignment it has no wear at all! but does have a ram shaped chunk pushed into it , so the bottoming out is looking likly , there are welded cracks that run from the front corner of the hole diagonaly to the bore opening I then let the ram down and found that it was sticking where the crack had beed repaired in the bore so up it went again and with a gentle hand I fettled the bore with an angle grinder (eek) this took about 5 sessions of fettling and letting the ram down and putting it up again , it now moves freely and I have been very carefull!! Taking an angle grinder to you power hammer bore is not something I would recommend but it seems to have done the trick here is a look in the top piston , these hammers are suck and blow so only one air opening .....simples I have measured the ram at bottoming out height so that I can plan the set up I am imagining adding 2 inches to this height to prevent bottoming out in the future. The height of the ram is 63cm (or 25 inches) from "floor" this is really low even with a couple of inches added as a safety margin so I will have to lift the hammer quite a bit (which saves digging such a big hole) I am now comitted to putting this one in... so we will hopefully start digging its hole friday..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I basically went the same size foundation as for a 2cwt massey. So far so good, used no reo, when we cast the concrete we made the hole for the anvil about 3" deeper then needed, then brought the hole bottom up to where it was needed with self leveling high tensile grout, so far so good, we used conveyor belt under the anvil as well, so far 3 years of heavy work and no probs. Only one problem apart from the gearwheel coming loose, the face of the anvil is very soft, so much so that my boys are managing to pound the bottom die into it. I'll take some photos af the formwork today, and of the hammer etc and post them on here. Pictures speak louder than words. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Larson Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Thanks for the recent photographs. The one showing the rectangular air port helps me to see how the bore above it serves as an air cushion to keep the cylinder from slamming into the top of the head. The one showing the rectangular brass pieces on the end of the big rod--what role do they play? Vsalving? Keying the hammerhead orientation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Furrer Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 Well done Owen, Looks pretty she does. Glad you had a good look at her before placing under power. Happy digging...your in Kent..so you may find an old burial or two as well...... Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Larson Posted July 10, 2011 Share Posted July 10, 2011 I now see the role of the brass alignment keys against the bottom flats of the hammer head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 John , you have got it the wedge presses the bronze plate against the back of the ram keeping the dies in correct orientation. there is a relief valve on top of the front cylinder bore and I wonder if this stops the hammer over pressuring in the end of the up stroke ? as I understand it the vacuum action of the hammer means that there is a possible lift of atmospheric pressure (max) on the die . I am assuming that because you have a bigger piston at the back than front that this will be a partial vaccume . so the sucking force on a 9.5 inch ram with 70 or so square inches only needs to be around 1/4 bar to lift the ram...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 ... there is a relief valve on top of the front cylinder bore and I wonder if this stops the hammer over pressuring in the end of the up stroke ?...... Perhaps in a way, but not while cycling I think as the enclosed air above the tup acts as a cushion... The main purpose I think is while at top iddle, the valving prevents air coming to the upper side of the tup piston but not to the under side, in order to lift the tup, once the tup is at top iddle the 'motor piston' doesn't stop throwing air under the tup and it needs to escape to avoid over-pressure or it would stall the motor or slam the top cap... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Perhaps in a way, but not while cycling I think as the enclosed air above the tup acts as a cushion... The main purpose I think is while at top iddle, the valving prevents air coming to the upper side of the tup piston but not to the under side, in order to lift the tup, once the tup is at top iddle the 'motor piston' doesn't stop throwing air under the tup and it needs to escape to avoid over-pressure or it would stall the motor or slam the top cap... in these hammers there is no air under the tup the hammer is raised by vacuum (partial) ............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madmike Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Ok, so...Can it clamp ? Or iddle with the tup on the lower die ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 The alldays are a beautifully simple design. They can clamp (all the air is pumped on top of the piston, via a non return reed valve) , they can be in 'neutral' with the tup at rest at the bottom of the stroke, or hold up (waiting to work with tup at top of stroke) They obviously have a full range of work from gentle to a very heavy full work blow. The only thing I dont like about them is the pneumatic noise is very loud (can be sorted by venting it away from the hammer via some ducting) , and they seem prone to 'missing' every other hit when doing light work, this is a function of the rebound of the ram from the forging, and them being a vacuum only lift. Owen, I found 1/2 of the foundation drawing for this machine today after I spoke to you, and some funky old literature on A&O hammers - Ill try and get them in the post later this week for ya! I think I might have solved the 'square hole' in the frame mystery.... I found some references to a 'single blow' device that can be fitted to the hammers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Re Johns comment about the noise, our hammer came fitted with a muffler, we tried using it without the muffler but could not hear ourselves think, muffler on what a difference. Photo shows the hammer with muffler attached, it does'nt seem to affect the power of the hammer any. Hey Basher did you get the motor and motor mounting plate with the hammer. I've dug up the bolt drawings and bolt foundation placement drawings that I made when we installed the 2. I'll convert it to PDF tonight and post them up here, maybe of some use to you. 2nd photo is of my alldays 5 and 3 just enjoying the sun. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 The little Nohab single-acting hammer I had used a bronze shoe fastened in the bore to prevent the ram from rotating. Yes, without anything under it, the ram could fall right out. Although it was quite long and it would be hard for that to ever happen in reality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Just put a a vid on Utube of the 2 in action Not sure that this will work its my 1st go at doing this. <iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7Cy7NBuURB0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 11, 2011 Share Posted July 11, 2011 Here it is Phil: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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