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I Forge Iron

My forged spurs


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Ok, I'm still new to this forum but I've been looking at how others have been building the spurs. Here is what I've made for a while now. I've added the sucker rod idea from one of the other people posting here. Brilliant that they are built similar to the rasp spurs. I have been building the rasp spurs for a few years. I picked up the technique of silver soldering the brass on from watching a show on RFD of Billy Klapper adding silver fittings, and verified my rasp spur building through a DVD from Jim Poor. Great stuff. I will not build my own rowels though, too much work. The buttons are from Ranch2arena.com in California. .75 cents each is too inexpensive to pass up. Some others on this forum have used the same or similar methods for building them so I just want to show off what I have done. The three pairs are the ones I wear when riding and at the local brandings, my latest (sucker rod) and a pair I recently made. I made my spur straps as well. Cheers

post-16065-0-09961000-1295036185_thumb.j

post-16065-0-58125000-1295036230_thumb.j

post-16065-0-18207500-1295036312_thumb.j

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Great craftsmanship! I didn't know Jim Poor had a DVD out Mike, could you tell
me where I could get a copy? Years ago I saw him and his pretty wife do a demo, they were awsome.

It was a gift, as soon as I find out, I will relay where the DVD came from. Cheers
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Nice spurs. Did you forge the notch in the shanks on the one pair, or how did you do that? I like it.
Tom


On the shank end, when I initially cut them, I cut an "M" into it. After folding it in half, I twisted it "M" center upward and forged the shank ends curving downwards. I do not open the shanks back up any more for the rowels, I just cut into the metal with a cutting blade. It saves a ton of time and energy and is about the right width opening for the rowels.

spur end / shank end|discard this end
-----------------|---------------
-----------......|...............|----
-----------------|---------------
4" center cut, 6" to the middle of the rasp or there about. The extra 2" allows for mistakes and creativity on the shank.

On the cut (shank) end, cut an "M"

------------|
............|
...---------|
..\
...\
.../
../
...---------|
............|
------------|

Fold it in half lengthwise and open the bands up around a jig to give a good shape for the bands, using the horn/bick by itself is too hard to make it perfect. If you want the bands to curve up with solid buttons, the center cut will have to be 5". Hope this helps, and I hope my diagrams express my explaination.
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