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I have a couple of bearings to pour. I have the babbit but need something to dam up the small cracks on the ends. I know they (Sid) sell a special damming compound but I don't want to buy a 26$ can for such a small job.

What else (that I might have) would work? So far I am thinking plumbers putty.

Thanks.

Bob

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Years ago, I used an old powdered wood putty that you mixed with water.

Again, years ago, when ABANA was in diapers and there was no internet, I found very little info on pouring babbitt. I couldn't find it for sale in any catalogs. There was a brief article in Selvidge & Alton, "Blacksmithing." I think they suggested sooting the shaft that you were "surrounding" with the babbitt. The soot, when removed, would give an oil clearance (at least for low speed machinery). For my purposes, I applied the soot with the acetylene torch without turning on the oxygen.

I was working on my Little Giant hammer, and I called a local machine shop to ask where I could purchase babbitt. The guy on the phone laughed out loud. "We haven't used that in years!" I called two more machine shops. The man at the third shop asked whether I had tried the windmill supply in Albuquerque. I said, "No, but I'll try." The windmill supply salesman said, "Sure, we have it in small ingot form. Do you want low speed or high speed?"

Babbitt metal melts at 462ºF. It is an alloy of 7% antimony, 4% copper, and 89% tin. I fabricated my own pouring ladle of mild steel.

Reference: "Metalwork Technology and Practice"

http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools

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Thanks for all the good info on pouring babbit. Just a couple of comments... Using DAP glazing puddy for a dam is a great suggestion, I just tried some regular plumber's puddy with molten lead and that seemed to work OK as well.
The "old fashoned - add water" wood puddy is Durham's and it's still available at most hardware stores... very versitle stuff for molding and such, just be sure it's completely dry before pouring hot metal. As for the "soot" , this prevents the babbit from sticking to the shaft.
Joe B

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Thanks for all the replies and the offer to send me some damming compound. Much appreciated.

I think I'll go ahead and use plumbers putty.

I am repouring the top part of the main bearings on a LG 25. I'll try to take a few pics.

Thanks again.

Bob

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When I worked for the automotive lift company back in the late 90's we were pulling out a lot of in ground lifts, and replacing them with above ground units. The in ground lifts have about a 24" Babbitt bearing that is 7.5"-10" diameter in the head. We must have sent hundreds of pounds of it to the scrap yard. One dealership had 22 dual post lifts that we replaced.

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Yes Stuart - There is, The Hawkeye Helve hammer has a pivot bearing casting that I poured a "full around" the pivot shaft. This is the pivot the 2"x 2" steel helve pivots on. The lower main bearings on the crankshaft have bearings similar to others, in that they have a top and bottom casting - which I poured them also. - JK

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I just read a book from 1903 in it is recomended adding a walnut size piece of resin to the babbit and skimming before pouring. It said that the babit would flow into all the spaces better. Have never tryed it but has anyone else heard of this?


Obviously that is a fluxing process, but what resin is used?

Anything wrong with fluxing the babbit with borax to help clean it?

I have cast a fair amount of lead as sinkers and other simple items, and fluxing was not used although skimming was.

Phil
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Obviously that is a fluxing process, but what resin is used?

Anything wrong with fluxing the babbit with borax to help clean it?

I have cast a fair amount of lead as sinkers and other simple items, and fluxing was not used although skimming was.

Phil


Borax will not melt at the pouring temperature of babbit.
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