Anvil hardfacing

[Norseman C.B.]

I wish to thank all of you for your input on this subject, sadly: upon further investigation my free anvil is definately an ASO cast from malleable cast iron it was bought at a flea market in L.A. Ca. many years ago.
My guess is it's a mexican copy casting I'll just have to beat on it till find or make a decent one, then sell it for scrap and maybe buy a hot dog for lunch on the proceeds of the sale ............Clifford :rolleyes:

[John B]

sadly: upon further investigation my free anvil is definately an ASO cast from malleable cast iron it was bought at a flea market in L.A. Ca. many years ago.
My guess is it's a mexican copy casting I'll just have to beat on it till find or make a decent one, then sell it for scrap and maybe buy a hot dog for lunch on the proceeds of the sale ............Clifford

Well Boo flippen Hoo, Sorry Clifford, but why is that a particular problem, you can still work on it and learn on it if you relly want to,

There are lots of 'students' that would be more than happy to have an ASO that looks like one to work on. just to familiarise themselves as to how each surface can be used.

If you are working at the proper forging temperatures, there should be few problems in how it reacts apart from the rebound, and you may find even that improves as you use it and put some energy into the block (even if that is only a psychological thing, probably because by learning you are workingmore confidently and smarter)

Good work is what comes off the block, and not governed by what the block is made from.

Just use it and at least you will have a bench mark to work to if you get the opportunity to purchase other ASO's as to whether or not they will be an improvement.

And on the plus side, you won't blunt your cutting tools when you go too far without using a cutting plate, and any dings can be easily removed (tongue in cheek)

Sell it for scrap !!!, When did scrap become anything other than unsold work, use it for an upsetting block on the floor.

[youngdylan]

Sell it for scrap !!!, When did scrap become anything other than unsold work, use it for an upsetting block on the floor.

I second that. If it's got enough weight, a big lump on the floor is always very useful.

[ThomasPowers]

John; have you ever used a cast iron ASO? I have and when working coilspring on it *at* a good forging temp for that alloy it would leave deeper dents in the anvil face *under* the coilspring than the hammer would put into the coilspring.

A large hunk of scrap metal made a MUCH better anvil and was much more pleasurable to work on.

However that anvil could be the bait to lure others into his grasp for it has been noted that once you have one the others seem to be easier to find...

Scrap price for cast iron is so low I doubt you would get a hotdog for it; but it can go on to be used as a shop sign out front or for pressing flowers or for glueups or for holding tooling in the hardy.

[John B]

John; have you ever used a cast iron ASO? I have and when working coilspring on it *at* a good forging temp for that alloy it would leave deeper dents in the anvil face *under* the coilspring than the hammer would put into the coilspring.

A large hunk of scrap metal made a MUCH better anvil and was much more pleasurable to work on.

I have used a cast iron block for forging, I can't remember seriously damaging its surface, however if it did it could be an opportunity to use the area to provide a textured finish to your softer work, or for fullering when drawing out, every cloud has a silver lining, but sometimes its hard to find.


I agree they are not ideal, but if you know the limitations, and work within them, it will put you on until something better can be located.

[don't tread on me]

Bolt down a tool steel face, drill all the way throw the ASO put in the bolts and drill holes in the tool steel that are the same size as the head of the bolt, thn weld the tool steel to the bolts.

[Dragons lair]

Bolt down a tool steel face, drill all the way throw the ASO put in the bolts and drill holes in the tool steel that are the same size as the head of the bolt, thn weld the tool steel to the bolts.

Question is Have you done this type of thing? Drilling thru the aso indicates useing nuts. Hammering will loosen nuts. Ya didn't mention machining the face. Would need to be perfectly flat to have a chance of working.
Ken.

[jmeineke]

Someone somewhere on this forum at one point mentioned that you can weld cast with 7018. Now, just because I'm learning and am always looking for excuses to weld something, I'd be tempted to try building it up with 7018 and then hardface it. Not only would it give me practice, I'd hopefully have something a little more usable as a finished product.

If you're having trouble finding an anvil, check out scrap yards near a large city (there are lots of industrial "throw aways" near large cities). The one that I go to has about 10 forklift tines laying around in the yard - they go for about 30 cents a lb. I have several anvils, but I've been tempted to buy a tine because it's a nice long, flat hard surface. Throw it on a nice solid base like this guy's doing and you'll have a good surface to work on: http://www.iforgeiro...post__p__179712.

[IronPuppet]

What you want to do is put a tool steel face on the cast steel anvil.
So here is what I would do.
Get the face machined flat on a milling machine. Any shop that rebuilds engines can do this and it shouldn't cost much.
Buy a piece of tool steel for the top, preferably one that is "oil Hardened".
Drill 4 holes in the corners of the tool steel.
Drill 4 corresponding holes in the anvils face about 2 to 3 inches deep.
Tap the holes to receive 1/2" bolts.
Buy grade 8 or better bolts.
Countersink the bolt holes into the tool steel for half it's width.
Bolt the tool steel to the anvils face to a good torque.
Weld all around the heads of the bolts with a hard welding rod.
Grind off the bolt heads and welding that protrude above the face.
Have the face cut perfectly flat on a milling machine.
Case harden the face and then temper it.
Hammer away.
If you don't have access to a milling machine, then sand the face as flat as you can with a belt sander and use an anaerobic adhesive, like LockTight (there are a few brands) all over the face when you bolt it together. This will take out any gaps, but be sure to use the grade 3 stuff that creates a permanent bond. Grade 3 anaerobic glue is heat resistant and wont come lose when heated. You can put some down the bolt holes as well to take out any air spaces.

That's what I would do.

[Dragons lair]

What you want to do is put a tool steel face on the cast steel anvil.
So here is what I would do.
Get the face machined flat on a milling machine. Any shop that rebuilds engines can do this and it shouldn't cost much.
Buy a piece of tool steel for the top, preferably one that is "oil Hardened".
Drill 4 holes in the corners of the tool steel.
Drill 4 corresponding holes in the anvils face about 2 to 3 inches deep.
Tap the holes to receive 1/2" bolts.
Buy grade 8 or better bolts.
Countersink the bolt holes into the tool steel for half it's width.
Bolt the tool steel to the anvils face to a good torque.
Weld all around the heads of the bolts with a hard welding rod.
Grind off the bolt heads and welding that protrude above the face.
Have the face cut perfectly flat on a milling machine.
Case harden the face and then temper it.
Hammer away.
If you don't have access to a milling machine, then sand the face as flat as you can with a belt sander and use an anaerobic adhesive, like LockTight (there are a few brands) all over the face when you bolt it together. This will take out any gaps, but be sure to use the grade 3 stuff that creates a permanent bond. Grade 3 anaerobic glue is heat resistant and wont come lose when heated. You can put some down the bolt holes as well to take out any air spaces.

That's what I would do.

I was with ya till ya came to the case hardening part. How deep can ya case harden? And why temper after? Shoulden't
cost much to machine the surface? Any good shop I know by the time ya mill the feet and the top then the top again after bolting the plate on costs more than buying a good anvil.
Ken.