Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Taper attachment for a logan 10x24' lathe


Norseman C.B.

Recommended Posts

I have recently purchased and refurbished a logan /monkey wards 10x24" lathe and am looking for a taper attachment to fit.
Logan Actuator Co. is awfully proud of their new ones and I dont have a milling machine yet to make one. Anyone out there seen or heard of one for sale or trade or gimme for shipping cost ??? B) Thank you,

Clifford

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I have recently purchased and refurbished a logan /monkey wards 10x24" lathe and am looking for a taper attachment to fit.
Logan Actuator Co. is awfully proud of their new ones and I dont have a milling machine yet to make one. Anyone out there seen or heard of one for sale or trade or gimme for shipping cost ??? B) Thank you,

Clifford

Clifford, Look on flea bay and craigs look. Look for a local machine rebuilder. I used one in SC to locate parts for an old wilton variable speed drillpress. They could not find a manual for it but arranged for a photo copy.
Hope ya score one. Long shallow tapers need the proper tooling.
Ken.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Taper attachments are nice, but you can cut tapers other way in the mean time.

Short steep tapers are done by rotating the compound.

Long shallow tapers can be done by offsetting the tailstock with the piece between centers. This will also need a lathe dog driven by the chuck, or faceplate if you have one.

There are also a couple of machinists forums out there; practical machinist is one that I know of. They have for sale sections.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I have recently purchased and refurbished a logan /monkey wards 10x24" lathe and am looking for a taper attachment to fit.
Logan Actuator Co. is awfully proud of their new ones and I dont have a milling machine yet to make one. Anyone out there seen or heard of one for sale or trade or gimme for shipping cost ??? B) Thank you,

Clifford



When I got my first metal cutting lathe back in 1976, I was in the process of building a large woodturning lathe for columns and needed to cut some internal Morse tapers in the spindle and tailstock. I couldn’t find a taper attachment for the lathe I had so I built one. It was simple to make and worked so well that I put a set of plans together and sold them along with the blank stock as kits. I sold quite a few mostly to prison inmates, surprisingly.

I attached a pic of the ad that appeared in the April, 1977, edition of Popular Mechanics just for fun. I also attached part of the plans with the exploded diagram so if you want to make one, you could see just how simple it is. Sizing it for your lathe is a matter of calculation once you understand how it functions.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


When I got my first metal cutting lathe back in 1976, I was in the process of building a large woodturning lathe for columns and needed to cut some internal Morse tapers in the spindle and tailstock. I couldn’t find a taper attachment for the lathe I had so I built one. It was simple to make and worked so well that I put a set of plans together and sold them along with the blank stock as kits. I sold quite a few mostly to prison inmates, surprisingly.

I attached a pic of the ad that appeared in the April, 1977, edition of Popular Mechanics just for fun. I also attached part of the plans with the exploded diagram so if you want to make one, you could see just how simple it is. Sizing it for your lathe is a matter of calculation once you understand how it functions.

Ciladog; Thank you very much for the plans it will save engineering time on making one. I got spoiled having one on the lathes at former shops of employment,for ship drive shaft couplers, drive shafts, and taper fits on sawmill headrig bandwheel drive shafts pump shafts ect.I like the simple design that is most always the best.I have a retired engineer friend that always said use the k.i.s.s principle when designing something (ie) keep it simple stupid, that pearl of wisdom will stay with me always thanks again Clifford B)
Link to comment
Share on other sites


you got me thinking...and Googling

http://www.strippingknives.com/tools/taper.htm
http://www.kinzers.com/don/MachineTools/lathe_projects/
http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/Taper.html

Phil

Thank you Phil; more info to digest (love it !!) there are lots of interesting points brought to light for consideration,in your sugested sites, also a pearl of wisdom I found while checking them out.
(ie) You have only to state a problem acurately, and you have in general stated the solution.
A quote from Thomas Edison..... That is so right on so many levels Thanks and happy hammerin B)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

When I got my first metal cutting lathe back in 1976, I was in the process of building a large woodturning lathe for columns and needed to cut some internal Morse tapers in the spindle and tailstock. I couldn’t find a taper attachment for the lathe I had so I built one. It was simple to make and worked so well that I put a set of plans together and sold them along with the blank stock as kits. I sold quite a few mostly to prison inmates, surprisingly.

I attached a pic of the ad that appeared in the April, 1977, edition of Popular Mechanics just for fun. I also attached part of the plans with the exploded diagram so if you want to make one, you could see just how simple it is. Sizing it for your lathe is a matter of calculation once you understand how it functions.


Am I missing something? Is there supposed to be something attached here?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, ciladog, that looks like a simpler construct than the one by Burton, in the popular mechanics article. Does it clamp right to the back bed ways? The other design has one clamp on the bed, and the other end clamps to the carriage, with the upper sliding clamp on the disconnected cross feed.
Does seem that the use of a drill rod might be smoother in motion.
My compound only travels 4", it's an oldie, dosnt have a degree scale, seems like a taper attachment would be easier to set up accurately.
I need to cut some .098 per inch tapers, with a 1/2-13 end to fit the versamil attachment I want to use for milling on the lathe.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Thanks, ciladog, that looks like a simpler construct than the one by Burton, in the popular mechanics article. Does it clamp right to the back bed ways? The other design has one clamp on the bed, and the other end clamps to the carriage, with the upper sliding clamp on the disconnected cross feed.
Does seem that the use of a drill rod might be smoother in motion.
My compound only travels 4", it's an oldie, dosnt have a degree scale, seems like a taper attachment would be easier to set up accurately.
I need to cut some .098 per inch tapers, with a 1/2-13 end to fit the versamil attachment I want to use for milling on the lathe.

Yes, it clamps to the back of the lathe bed.

Any arrangement you come up with to fix the guide bar to the lathe at the proper height will work. The one in the post adjusted to the thickness of the bed ways. If you have a V bed, then you need to make clamps that will clamp to it.

The guide that clamps to the carriage doubles as a threading stop. That is why there is an adjustment screw on the right.

The plans are more to show how simple a taper attachment is to make then to have you make that exact design.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...