edge9001 Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 Here is a hatchet cleverly disguised as a knife. this thing is cluncky heavy and sharp 10 inch over all, a 1/2 inch thick full tang, and 1/16 at the tip. the blade is 1 1/2 inches at it's widest point, 5 1/4 long. Oak handle scales and brass pins. Since it was never meant to be sold, I've not bothered with a polished or even completely finished blade. just another one of my shop knives. more practice at making handles. Handles I have down pretty good, now I just need more practice at making blades, and finishing them on the forge instead of on the sander. what do you guys think? be brutal, honestly never hurt my feelings....much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 Well to tell the truth I think it just needs a bit more finishing on the sander. I would grind a longer bevel on it and smooth the back edge and then hone and call it a good blade. For me the bevel that you have is too steep for the kind of performance that I expect. I do not mind the rustic scale (in fact I kind of like it) but it is even nicer when contrasted with a nice clean bevel grind. There is a limit to what you can do, in regard to finishing, on the anvil. Because you want to leave the edge a bit over thick while heat treating you pretty well have to finish that part on the sander. The one other small fault that I see is that the pins are a bit rough maybe try a different alloy there... I am not sure how to improve that but I bet someone here can tell you. Of course you already realize that the tang could be a bit thinner and lighter with no particular loss of usefulness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge9001 Posted July 28, 2010 Author Share Posted July 28, 2010 "I would grind a longer bevel on it and smooth the back edge and then hone and call it a good blade." Thats actually some "more practice" i mentioned. I'm gonna play around with it a bit and see how it turns out. this is one of those ones I expect to completely destroy before I get it finished, the learning curve is steep around here. "pins are a bit rough" I know I just bought a brass rod from the HD shelf, and I'm not that good at peening rivets yet. I will probably drill these out and try again. "Of course you already realize that the tang could be a bit thinner..." well of course. in fact I was considering taking this thing back to the anvil this evening and thin the tang out a bit so I can save some material for other things. thanks for the input, I really appreciate the critique and helpful advice. since I finnally got =my gasser up and running I can go sneek out to the shop and come back in cleaner....makes it easier to do some quick work without my wife rolling her eyes when I come back in(used to come back in covered in charcoal dusk and soot.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge9001 Posted August 2, 2010 Author Share Posted August 2, 2010 I've taken it apart, and back on the anvil....and sander...I've reshaped the blade, thinned the handle and blade, and better defined the two surfaces of the bladehere's my work so far before old dimensions....10 inch over all, a 1/2 inch thick full tang, and 1/16 at the tip. the blade is 1 1/2 inches at it's widest point, 5 1/4 long. after New dimensions....8 3/4inches overall length, blade 1 1/2inches wide and 4 1/2inches long, overall 1/4 in thick once i finish working on the blade, I will put new handle on it, I'll try and post some pictures before I put the handle on. what do you guys think?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golgotha forge & anvil Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 It's really starting to look like a knife now! Great job..I'm not real good at peening rivets either..takes some practice and a lot of patience!!! Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tantrum86 Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 looks mean so what is it made out of? I have had pins that looked similar and found I was over estimating the leangth of the pins prior to peening try making them a little shorter and they will still do the job but wont crack and split over I usually leave a 1/16 on each side of my scales depending on the type of brass rod im using. Hope it helps keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge9001 Posted August 5, 2010 Author Share Posted August 5, 2010 sadly, it's just made from off-the-shelf HD mild. but quenched in iced brine it got a little harder than it used to be so it is a functional blade, if not a very good blade. One of my wife's cousins expressed an interest in it while watching me make it. So I think, once it's done, I'll get picture and then it's his. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
golgotha forge & anvil Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 looks great! Gene Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted August 6, 2010 Share Posted August 6, 2010 As for your brass rod, try annealing it before using it. Heat it red, and quench it in water. It should go dead soft,and will peen over without cracking. It will also upset a lot easier filling the gaps better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edge9001 Posted August 6, 2010 Author Share Posted August 6, 2010 As for your brass rod, try annealing it before using it. Heat it red, and quench it in water. It should go dead soft,and will peen over without cracking. It will also upset a lot easier filling the gaps better. You know, I anneal steel before I work it, But I never thought to anneal the brass rod. (smack self in forehead) good idea thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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