Richard Furrer Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 Hello All, So what is the thought on scale around the anvil on a twi piece hammer? I have nothing blocking falling scale from collecting around the anvil. I never gave it much thought till a New Zealand smith said that the scale can work under the anvil and cause it to shift. I assume this is when the base wood compresses under load and then "jumps" a bit with hard use. Grant, John N...any thoughts on this? Should I silicone the area around the anvil and cover it with a shield? Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 If 'you have it wedged in good, have a roofer stop by after a job and pour hot tar down there.The next owner of the hammer will cuss you for weeks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted July 26, 2010 Share Posted July 26, 2010 If 'you have it wedged in good, have a roofer stop by after a job and pour hot tar down there.The next owner of the hammer will cuss you for weeks! If he uses silicone the next owner will cuss him for years as that`s how long it will take to dig all traces of that evil stuff out. :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 Richard; You really must dissassemble and blow that scale out after a couple days of hard use!! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kerrystagmer Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 I hate you guys...... Its a monster task to remove all that xxxx. In the case of my beaudry I could never get it all out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 If it sever my purpose, I'm not going to worry about the next guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 When I pulled that 4N out that went to Jesse the anvil was "glued" in the foundation... the combination of years of leaking oil and compacted scale had more or less turned asphalt... it was a real mess... But I can tell you the scale when sufficiently pulverized makes for a very good packing material Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 Ok, So a hot tar silicone epoxy and rancid skunk urine mixture around all the anvil parts is best then...I'll be sure to get right on that then. Bigfoot...I have heard rumors of this technique...I believe it is called... "Cleaning". I have heard of this, but am not sure it is for me. Last time I swept I could not lift the shovel to the basket. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youngdylan Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 If it sever my purpose, I'm not going to worry about the next guy. what happens if you're the next guy when you move workshop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
myloh67 Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 Hello All, So what is the thought on scale around the anvil on a twi piece hammer? I have nothing blocking falling scale from collecting around the anvil. I never gave it much thought till a New Zealand smith said that the scale can work under the anvil and cause it to shift. I assume this is when the base wood compresses under load and then "jumps" a bit with hard use. Grant, John N...any thoughts on this? Should I silicone the area around the anvil and cover it with a shield? Ric I have been thinking along this line for a while, to use a heavy leather that is attached to anvil and is allowed to drape over the void, you could still get at your wedges, still havent done this yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Furrer Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 I have been thinking along this line for a while, to use a heavy leather that is attached to anvil and is allowed to drape over the void, you could still get at your wedges, still havent done this yet. Maybe a welding blanket?...they are Kevlar or Nomex or similar Aramid fiber. Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 How about some old heavy rope that's been soaked in a strong borax solution? (Packing?---some of us remember oakum!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 How about some old heavy rope that's been soaked in a strong borax solution? (Packing?---some of us remember oakum!) Oakum,that goes in before the cotton caulking and then it`s all topped with seam compound and bottom paint. What kind of hull are you and your crew plankin` there Thomas? ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nonjic Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 The scale does get under the block eventually. If you are using a fabreeka style pad they gaul up from the scale, and can collapse (eventually). Ive been told, and can fully believe that when you are using the hammer hard the foundation mat (or timbers) can warm up, which doesnt help with the scale ingress. Water getting around the foundation mat can also cause problems as it gets jubbled (dont know any technical words for hydraulic ??tramping??) around and breaks down the mat. Ric, Ill email you the document 'excluding scale from an anvil installation' but since your block is in the ground already its not much help to you As has been mentioned above you can just pour pitch tar around it, makes the block an 'illigitimate child' to remove in the future though (think welly boot stuck in mud) You should have a set of closly fitted timber wedges between the baseplate of the hammer, and the anvil protrusion to lock it up solid. The massey reccomended way, and I agree from my own experience is to make sure there are no gaps between the anvil and baseplate with nice tightly fitted wedges, then cut them all off flush, and put an angle iron cap over it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 Oakum,that goes in before the cotton caulking and then it`s all topped with seam compound and bottom paint. What kind of hull are you and your crew plankin` there Thomas? Oakum also supports the lead in the cast iron stand pipe. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mainely,Bob Posted July 27, 2010 Share Posted July 27, 2010 You should have a set of closly fitted timber wedges between the baseplate of the hammer, and the anvil protrusion to lock it up solid. The massey reccomended way, and I agree from my own experience is to make sure there are no gaps between the anvil and baseplate with nice tightly fitted wedges, then cut them all off flush, and put an angle iron cap over it . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 When I installed the Massey I poured a 2 part polysulfide from a builders supply around the base of the anvil between the concrete and the anvil. After the hammer had run for a few months I tightened the wedges between the hammer and the anvil, cut them off and filled any cracks with polysulfide caulking. I have not capped them but the treadle guard on the hammer covers the top of the wedges. Judging by the difference in the amount of scale on the hammer since I sealed between the hammer and anvil, a lot was working its way down under the hammer, even though the gaps between the wedges is 1/8" or less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forgemaster Posted July 28, 2010 Share Posted July 28, 2010 When we first intalled our 5 we only put the wedges around the anvil to hammer baseplate. They soon vibrated loose, scale got under the anvil and we had a problem that the bottom die was never able to be kept in the one place. We then pulled the anvil out, cleaned out the scale and then reset it into the foundation with fitted and mitred wooden wedges around the base driven in with a jack hammer then wooden wedges around the gap between the anvil and hammer base again then a well fitting cover over these wedges made from 3" angle and plate. 10 years later no movement no scale problems, (though when we move I'm not looking forward to removing that anvil). I'll attach 2 photos of our cover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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