Prokopto Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 I got this post vise on ebay for $40. Its all there and closes tight but the jaws do not spring open when the handle is turned out any clues as to why. The vise is a little gummed up where the collet goes through the front jaw and a little off-center too. Any ideas if this gummy condition is enough to create this problem or if the spring is weak? I really can't so anything with it for a few more weeks as I recovering from surgery and on "light duty" until August 2nd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fosterob Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 Most likely dirt, grit or rust in the bottom pivot area. I got a 160 lb vice in similar condition and just had to clean everything and now it works like new. Satar soaking it in kroil or wd40 now so it can have a chance to soak in. Try to remove all old grime off the screw, it is probably full of metal and is now a lapping compound. Good luck and get well soon. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 What he said! Now is the time to apply a good penetrating oil to the pivot point area and then let it soak for a couple of weeks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokopto Posted July 9, 2010 Author Share Posted July 9, 2010 thanks for the info. I especially appreciate the 411 about the screw and the grime being a lapping compound. I'll just put it in a tub upside down and fill it with K1 for a few weeks while I heal up. Then clean it really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 All good advise, I used much of it today. Cleaned the screw box with mineral spirits, pulled apart the pivot and scraped out all kinds of funk. When I was done I ended up tweeking the spring a bit on the anvil, cold. I put the end in the hardy and gave it a good whallop. I added about 1/2 inch of deflection. Most springs are mild steel according to what I have read. I should have grabbed the spring with the vise instead, but it worked well, and the vise was on the floor again... would have taken about 2 seconds to put the wedges in. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 All good advise, I used much of it today. Cleaned the screw box with mineral spirits, pulled apart the pivot and scraped out all kinds of funk. When I was done I ended up tweeking the spring a bit on the anvil, cold. I put the end in the hardy and gave it a good whallop. I added about 1/2 inch of deflection. Most springs are mild steel according to what I have read. I should have grabbed the spring with the vise instead, but it worked well, and the vise was on the floor again... would have taken about 2 seconds to put the wedges in. Phil Glad it worked but it sounds a bit awkward... next time just lay the spring over your hardy hole or your anvil step and hammer it gently till you get the curve that you want. This system gives you very accurate control (you move the spring back and forth to place the curve where you want it). Quite delicate adjustments are relatively easy to make and you just keep hammering gently until you get what you want. Less chance of breakage or accident and it's simple to place the added curvature where you want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 I didn't think about turning it on the step.... I ended up pulling the wedges and straightening them because the spring slipped between yesterday and today. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted July 12, 2010 Share Posted July 12, 2010 Phil; Usually the method is to turn a lip at the top of the spring that keeps it from sliding down and to curl the bottom corners of the spring inward so that they keep it centered on the arm. Not sure if this will work with the spring that you have but if you make a new one allow enough material to do it this way as it works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Kahn Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 At the suggestion of a couple of smiths I met during a class at Daryl Nelson's shop last year, I added thrust bearings to the two post vices in my shop, and I must say, the bearings really are a nice addition. They make vice operation noticeably smoother, and it's much easier to torque them down hard when you need to. (The bearing goes between the vice handle and the outer outside jaw surface.) There are probably cheaper sources, but McMaster Carr has a good selection of sizes: http://www.mcmaster.com/#thrust-bearings/=7zppdq . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monstermetal Posted July 17, 2010 Share Posted July 17, 2010 At the suggestion of a couple of smiths I met during a class at Daryl Nelson's shop last year, I added thrust bearings to the two post vices in my shop, and I must say, the bearings really are a nice addition. They make vice operation noticeably smoother, and it's much easier to torque them down hard when you need to. (The bearing goes between the vice handle and the outer outside jaw surface.) There are probably cheaper sources, but McMaster Carr has a good selection of sizes: http://www.mcmaster.com/#thrust-bearings/=7zppdq . What class was that? Bet that was me :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Kahn Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 What class was that? Bet that was me Animal head class last fall. If it was you MM, Thanks! The bearings work great and really improve the vices. The only thing I added was some electrical tape around the outside of the bearing races to keep the metal dust from hack sawing and filing out of the bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prokopto Posted July 31, 2010 Author Share Posted July 31, 2010 Okay, so I took the ad-vice (punny) given here an completely disassembled the post vice and cleaned it with thinner and a wire wheel on my Makita 4" grinder. It works like a charm now. It doesn't have that wonderful handle bounce like I've seen but the secondary jaw opens when the handle is turned out now anyways. Thanks gang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.