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MonsterMetal...

The hammer had been run without dies.... twice.... and broken twice. When I bought it, it had been sitting outside for five years with the lower ram guide sitting around the ram on the sow block. They were rusted together. I had anticipated rust in the cylinders and valves, but there was none. The top of the muffler had been sealed with duct tape, then a can was put over that, so it kept water out of the hammer. The first time it was run without dies (my conjecture), it broke the bolts holding the lower ram guide to the steel ring that is bolted to the frame. Someone who didn't understand the hammer just pushed the ram guide back together with the steel ring, then welded them together. When someone tried to run the hammer again without dies, it broke the ram guide (which is cast iron), tearing away chunks of the cast iron where it had been welded. Fortunately, whoever did the welding, just put two inch squirts where the bolts had been. If they had welded it continously all the way around, the lower ram guide would have been completely destroyed (possibly the ram too). I got the rust off using the electrolytic process and fine sand paper. Fortunately, the rust had not done too much damage. I do think though, if it hadn't been taken care of in this time frame, pitting would have been a significant problem to deal with. I had the remnants of the weld (hanging onto the steel ring) machined off, then I drilled and tapped new holes (between the old bolted areas) to fasten the ram guide back to the steel ring (the steel ring bolts up to the frame with part of the ram guide going up into the ram cylinder). I sealed air leakage where I could not put new bolts in the old holes with JB Weld and used gasket sealant with the gaskets. I verified the bearings were OK (inspected one), squirted penetrant and oil everywhere I could, turned over the flywheel without the ram in place to play with the compressor side of the hammer, then put it back together...

The oiler I was given with it was filled with rust (go figure), but I had another for another project I am working on. I think I can rescue the original 1B oiler, but that will take more work. It will go on the 1B when it is resurrected.

I added an Oak base to get it to a better forging height for me, put an addition on the treadle to make it friendly again, put a start/stop switch and magnetic starter on it... then cranked it up.

Oh... forgot.... I made a set of dies for it. And... I made a new tower for the muffler so I could use it with my garage door open.

Not quite that simple, but close... It works well. All in all.... it's an awesome hammer.

Finding it was just a stroke of luck. A friend of mine told me he knew where a small Nazel was for sale. I don't think it had been advertised yet. I expect I will keep it.

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Question from a newbie.

Can someone explain how this hammer works, ie;, how power is transmitted from motor to ram and how stroke, etc. is controlled?
Have decent understanding of Little Giant style hamers and steam hammers.

Really enjoyed the way the Nazel worked.
Hammer just went from "nice to have" to "Must have".

Thanks

Marshall

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Question from a newbie.

Can someone explain how this hammer works, ie;, how power is transmitted from motor to ram and how stroke, etc. is controlled?
Have decent understanding of Little Giant style hamers and steam hammers.

Really enjoyed the way the Nazel worked.
Hammer just went from "nice to have" to "Must have".

Thanks

Marshall



do a simple search on "self contained pneumatic hammer"

the hammer is actually a very simple device if this is a square...

it makes any automobile engine look like a spiders web

I will describe this in the simplest way i can because my own knowledge is limited

a low rpm motor turns a large pulley (in some cases its a series of arms much like a train this is less effective because of the fact you lose centrifugal motion from the pulley

the beats per min are determined by the rpm at the crankshaft

a large piston pumps on the first side this is the compressor

on second side (called the tup) the anvil is below and the dies lock into the tup and the sow block below

a valve is in between the two cylinders and is actuated by a foot treadle or in some cases a pull down by hand

the beauty of a pneumatic hammer is the fact you should be able to hit lighter than with your hand and at a pace faster and with a harder push of the treadle you should be able to hit harder than you can with a sledgehammer and faster then a human can do it

all without adjusting the machine you can also have the hammerhead move thoughout its range without it contacting at all

typically these hammers last forever as long as the frame isnt cracked it can be fixed, a small unit 40kg tup typically weights 2000lb's + and the hammer will take up about 18 inches wide and 35 inches long for a anyang unit without a base

a large hammer can weight an incredible amount

a self contained hammer must have air pressure on both sides of the tup always so it can cushion itself before it would over extend and bottom out so there is always power lost to this

as the hammer runs it continually gets hotter (until you turn it off) The hammer itself has absolutely no cooling system other than the metal disapating the heat and the movement of air,

meaning the air it draws in on the compressor side will expand more and more the hammer will then compress this air in the same volume of chamber generating more force on the tup side

why? because the air its drawing in is colder than inside the hammer the air must expand as it is compressed because of the heat

now if the hammer was run hard continually we must also think of what is happening to this tup side it is also warming up but not only that that its generating its own backpressure because when the tup hits the metal in the die the air that cushions it therefore must be compressed again,

this air must run though the system again because if it exited the system quickly the hammer would surely bottom out

essentially pneumatic hammers are farily simple but they require complex calculations and very specific setup in order to control them


(correct me if i am wrong on any of this, because its quite possible I made a mistake)




here is a few of my personal idea's from what I have seen in industry as well as my own experimentation with linear motors

hopefully in the future if the demand is there we will see a fully electronic hammer in the future

I know for a fact in the plastic molding industry they have massive electromagnetic molding machines capable of 500 tons of pressure at incredible rates of speed though the range of motion

adaption of a linear motor to a powerhammer could easily be done by a knowledgable and practical engineer
it would be simpler to build than a self contained pneumatic hammer and more controlable, it should also be able to offer a few things a self contained pnematic hammer cant do at all, adjustable BPM, much greater bpm, as well as flawless single blows even clamping blows

a smaller hammer could do more work because using this method the tup should be able to accelerate much quicker
but the hammer would require a much greater height in order to be effective because of the nature of the system

even a twin hammer could prove to be the best solution

ultimately though, once would be starting from scratch and applying it to this application
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Thanks everyone, for the nice comments about the hammer.

I attached a couple pictures with this post. The hammer frame is about 26 inches wide and 62 inches long at the base (the Oak base is 30" x 64"). The total height (including the muffler stack) is just under 7'. Weight is 5000#. I replaced the muffler stack (tower on top) with one I made so I could use the hammer in my shop with the door open...

The closeup of the RAM/Ram_Guide shows the rust and damage (to the ram guide). The steel ring is still bolted up to the frame. If you look closely at the ring, you can see the remnants of the welds hanging down (those were machined off). The other photo is the finished product.

I have learned a LOT about these hammers. Bob Bergman (Postville Blacksmith Shop) has a package I bought which includes a 2B rebuild video, some Nazel marketing documentation and a pamphlet written by Mark Krause that has a fairly good explanation about how these hammers work.

post-585-12641275019897_thumb.jpg

post-585-12641275203367_thumb.jpg

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Nice hammer Dave! I hope to be as lucky someday to find one as you have. I have been told the navy used these along with the 2B as ship board hammers because they where one piece. Do you know if this is true? What kind of foundation did you have to put in for it?

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HWHII.... Thanks!..... I also, have heard they were used on ships, but don't know any details about it. Nazel made 1Bs and 2Bs in both single and two piece hammers. The one piece hammers are much simpler to install. I made an oak base (6x6's) for my 1B. I'm sure there are specifications available that call for a much more massive base, but this has been working just fine so far. It's doubtful I will do any more than corral it at the corners on my shop floor. The hammer weighs 5000# without a base.

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