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I Forge Iron

Damascus Kitchen Knife Blank


nonjic

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Ive got hold of a nice supply of good quality tool steels for damascus forging so hopefully you will see lots of new work from me now !

The steels are Udderholm 15n20 and 20C

This is a kitchen knife im working on, the pattern is 'featherd 'w's ' the blade is full flat ground and just waiting for the desert ironwood and stainless pins ive got lined up for it!

All comments and suggestions welcome,

PS, this is officially the first knife from 'Shadowforge' !

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Beautifully done feather! The blade is very nice overall too. It'll be a treat to see it
finished.

I'm especially impressed at some of the elaborate damascus patterns you make with
power hammers. A number of very skilled makers have told me that a press works
much better for mosaic based patterns but you seem to be a counter example.

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I used to use a press for damascus and to be honest, for me, if your any good with a power hammer it does (pretty well) everything a press does, but quicker and neater.

If Im aiming for a 1" square bar thats xxxx near what I will end up with., no bulges or rhomboidial (sp) bars. For this feather pattern you need to draw a bar out 1.5" wide x 1/4 thick x 18"+ long. I can hold it all to within 1/16" most of the time without using kiss blocks.

For me there is a lot more 'feel' with a hammer than a press.

The main thing I dislike about press forging is the flux scale. Takes an age to grind off. The hammer just blasts it away, seconds with a grinder to give clean bare metal.

For patterns like this on a hammer obviously the dies need to be plain flat ones, or you will be into a world of distortion!

This piece was forged on an 88lb anyang (including using the power hammer to push the hot cut through). A 55lb Anyang would have been more than enough, Infact ive done this pattern with a 33lb before now!

Mick Maxen whos work is absolutely top quality (and often copied by me!) only uses hammers.

For Powdered (can) damascus a press is going to be a much better tool than a hammer, Ive never tried that though.

Im not saying hammers are better than presses, its just what you get along with best, and at the moment im a hammer man!

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......The main thing I dislike about press forging is the flux scale. Takes an age to grind off. ......


Have you checked the manufacturer's code on your grinding wheel? Many places around here sell grinding wheels that take forever to remove metal on the theory that the wheels last longer. The faster the particles break away on the wheel to reveal new sharp cutting particles, the faster the wheel tends to cut. The farm stores around here seem to specialize in selling junk grinding discs without industry standard codes on them.

For Norton, Sait, and other name brand manufacturers, the letter "N" in the code tends to indicate that the grinding wheel is a "fast cutting" wheel, and "R" in the code is sort-of-fast but not as fast. If there is no industry standard code on the wheel, then I don't purchase it. In my opinion, manufacturers and retailers that claim there are no such things as industry standard codes are either showing their ignorance or ripping people off.

There is even an N coded wheel, If I remember correctly, "Saitech Attacker Edited by UnicornForge
Clarifying a few points.
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Thanks for all the compliment guys n gals!!! This one is 99% finished now, just needs a little tidy up and re-etch, end some photographs :)

On the grinding of flux. Uniconforge, Thanks for the info in the wheels. Ive used a wide variety of abrasives and its still hard work getting the flux off after press forging damascus.

One of the problems is the flux is glass hard but it doesnt coat 100% of the steel surface, so you end up digging into the billet when the disk slips off the fluxed area into the clean steel, Ive found by far and away the best approach to flux removal is to blast it off under the hammer :D

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