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I Forge Iron

cesare

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    blacksmith
  1. Okay I just stated the facts I have. If I knew more I wouldn't bother asking.
  2. I have just come across a woman who is selling her late husband's belongings and was wondering if anyone has any info about a fair price for a Columbia coal forge.
  3. Great axe Jake. Did you have any problems welding behind the steel edge? I sometimes have difficulty with a hole forming behind the tool steel bit. I'm thinking of using a spring fuller to close the hole.
  4. Hello Sam. That was a good video. Yes I have used that method. You can still burn w1 anyway. I tend to use the warped eye technique. I'm looking into using heat treat crayons. I'm having a hard time seeing the colors bleed down.
  5. That's a **** good idea. Think that would work for a large Dane axe? Can you crimp such a large blade? Why do you discard the edge? Is it burnt that badly? I am not welding at such high temp that I see sparks. Or is it carbon migration or grain growth? Cesare
  6. I'll have to try the hammer head method. I have made 3 axes so fare and as soon as I figure out how to post a picture I will. Cesare
  7. Thanks Jake. yes I made a strip. The w1 bit was only 1/2 an inch or so inside the weld Yes I should have welded most of the mild steel body first then the w1 bit. The scarf was a mess. Next time I hope will be better. I shaped the w1 into a rectangle about 7'' long by 1 and 1/2'' wide by 1/4'' thick. My intention was to make a foot long viking war axe. The problem with making the axe into one solid billet is that the blade is many times longer then the body. So I tried to weld a long edge into a smaller body. I love the larger axes and swords, they're just a bit tougher to make. Hello Dave. I don't find hand hammering that difficult as long as it's not 95 degrees outside. Is a hammer head the right steel for a work axe? Can you harden them enough for a cutting edge? Did you anneal the o1 first? Cesare
  8. I thought the w1 would be tougher but at high heat w1 is soft. Well maybe soft isn't the word. I started with a bar 1' square cold rolled mild steel. Not sure of the exact chemistry. I drew the bar down 8 or so inches long by two or so wide and barley scarfed it. Then I folded it in half. removed it from the fire and let cool. I used wire to hold the w1 bit in. Then I returned it to the fire. heat, flux ,heat, weld. yes I know not quite the way to do it. Long story short it did not weld and the lower part of the blade came off. I have tried the v-notch method but when I hammered it the tool steel bit came out. Those tongs might be a good idea. Cesare
  9. Absolutely right Jake. I also did not scarf the mild steel very well. Also I'm having a problem with the mild flattening the w1 and shearing off the axe blade. Probably due to the scarf. The b,s talk was my fault. Too many people in the forge. She is a jealous mistress indeed. On a better note I did finish a small Nordic axe with w1 and mild steel. The longer beards are the ones giving me trouble. Cesare
  10. I like your site Dave. Make any camp axes? I take it you don't use w1. Cesare
  11. Yes I know there are better steels for welding but I like w1s edge holding ability. The last weld had quite a few sparks ....I was talking to a friend and not paying attention. I'll try the lemon color thanks. Cesare
  12. I've been making a few Nordic axes using w1 for the blades and mild steel for the body. The problem being the w1 is very heat sensitive and crumbles at high heat before I make the weld. I bring the mild steel to white heat then place the w1 in at slightly above red heat or higher when the borax starts to dance. Still the welds wont take, half the time. Any tips are appreciated. Cesare
  13. How did you make that pattern?
  14. Xxxx good job. I'm forging mine using w1 for the blade and mild steel for the body. Cesare
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