Jeff Mack Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 Getting ready to get my barn set up so I can forge inside. I read a blueprint here that suggested a minimum of 10" pipe, but none of the local home improvement palces cary over 8" pipe. Any ideas? Thanks! Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksb Posted July 22, 2006 Share Posted July 22, 2006 I got same problem. Been trying to find 10 & 12" stove pipe. Nobody has anything over 8". Checked a few places on the web - same. ksb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woody Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Perhaps check out a fireplace shop or your local HVAC Company. HVAC Compaines usually deal with commercial buildings which require larger pipe and duct work Woody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irnsrgn Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Grain Auger Tubing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Think about building to code. IF something should happen, the insurance company may look for an excuse not to pay up. Pipe either standard sch 40, or corrigated drain pipe will work. The inside of a hot water tank can be 14" 16" or 18" and is maybe 11 ga. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryCarroll Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Like Woody sez: heating and AC people handle or as in my case, make larger sizes. Mine is 12" with a turbin= no smoke in the shop.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=394&stc=1&d=1153623242 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Waugh Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Forget the big box joints and the internet. What you want to find is an HVAC shop that does commercial kitchens. Don't know one? Just ask your local greasy spoon who did their hood. Don't worry about galvanized duct, either. It works just ducky, if you have a proper side-draft hood; the flue temperature shouldn't ever get hot enough to burn the zinc. If it does, you have bigger problems, like burning down your building. If you build a good side draft hood and use 10 or 12 inch flue and a proper roof penetration, you should be just fine. If you're in a frame building, don't get cheap on the penetration, though. get a section of triple wall flue for that bit, or make your own. By the way, if you want 12" flue pipe and can only find smaller, just get twice as much of the 6" size. Open them up, (they usually come that way) and lock the seams of two piees together. Now roll it around and lock it together to make a pipe. Voila! Instant larger pipe. Available most anywhere. That wasn't hard, was it? Guess how many years it was until I learned this bit of simple advice. (grin) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Waugh Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 I forgot to mention one other thing: think inside the box. Square duct is just as good as round at removing smoke. Why, ,you could even make your own if need be. 12" square duct will move about 35% more air than 12" round, and is sometimes easier to make flanges, roofjacks and standoffs for, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Thomas Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 The big problem with typical galvanized stovepipe isn't that you burn the zinc, but rather that the exhaust from coal has so much sulphur in it. The soot and smoke combines with moisture, making sulphuric acid and eats fairly rapidly through any thin zinc coating. Especially where it can collect at elbows and joints. If you can find stainless for your pipe, that is more resistent. I bought my latest chimney of 10" round stainless in 5' sections through McMaster Carr a bit over a year ago. Not cheap, but is holding up far better than any galvanized piping I'd used before. If you need it NOW and just want to pay the minimum to get a 10" pipe up and running, you can take a pair of smaller dimensioned pipe and interlock them. Five inch isn't as common in the local hardware stores here as 6" and 8", so I don't know if you'll be able to find 5" or not. Instead of rolling the sheet onto itself as expected, you connect a sheet to another sheet and roll that into a tube. Two 5" pipe sheets will make a 10" pipe. Since 12" pipe can draw almost half again as much as 10" pipe, you could always move up to a pair of 6" pipe if the 5" isn't available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Thomas Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Oops.. just noticed that the double tube idea was already posted by Rich. Apologies for the duplicate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 23, 2006 Share Posted July 23, 2006 Circumference of a 5" dia circle is 15.7" or 19.6 sq inches, area inside the circle. Double the circumference is 31.4 which is 78.5 sq inches or 4x the area. (Machinery's Handbook) And I do not recall the rule where it says you have to assemble two stove pipes of the exact same size. Why not a 5" and a 8", a 6" and a 8", or a 4 "and a 6", or any other combination you can think of to get your desired end result? There is a issue with how the air flows inside the square vs round chimney, and air flow inside a too large or too small chimney, but that is beyond the scope of the original question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Waugh Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 If you go buy refractory flue tiles, you'll find that they are square. It works. No, you won't get laminar flow with square, but you won't get it with round, either. That's because you live in the real world, not the theoretical world. (grin) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 For long, straight stacks, has anyone ever tried galvanized culvert pipe? Haven't tried it yet, but it is readily available in bigger diameters and long lengths. Might also be a bit thicker than standard stove/vent pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Pook Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 A person I know used them for his 3 forges (teached classes), found them on the scrap pile. worked great. At the new shop I'm using heavy walled corrugated piping from a dust collecter for the run inside the shop and switching to the walled stainless stuff for the roof penetration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stryder Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Jeff; contact your local chimney sweep, our go to your wood burning appliance shop. new liner type pipe is available. also the zero clearance type fireplaces have 9' and 10' chimneys. these are usually triple wall design, air cooled, and require 2' min clearance to any combustible material. i have cleaned these units for 18 years and they hold up well if maintained properly. if you install properly i dont see a problem as coal falls into the ( national fire protection agency code 211 ) solid fuel appliance categorie, the same for woodburning fireplaces, stoves, and pellet burning appliances. if you buy new stainless liner make sure to get alloy 316 instead of 304 as 316 resists acids in coal , and 304 does same for wood. hope this will help. George aslo as a footnote, galvinized pipe is only used on gas fired appliances, not gas forges and definately not as a solid fuel vent. as many posts as ive seen about "Paw-Paw" im surprised to see it mentioned here. i wouldnt have passed my national certification test if i had even implied galvinized pipe was satisfactory as a vent for solid fuel. if ive stepped on toes, i apologize but, i would rather offend than hear of heavy metal poisoning to anyone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Barter Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Like Woody sez: heating and AC people handle or as in my case, make larger sizes. Mine is 12" with a turbin= no smoke in the shop.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=394&stc=1&d=1153623242 Hey, Jerry. Got any other pictures of that from the inside? I've got the same type of barn and was thinking of penetrating straight up through the roof and trying to figure out how to flash it. Oh, and what'd you use to cut your hole? I have the same material and reciprocating saw almost vibrated the panels off the barn! Also, how does the turbine work; just from wind or does the convection current drive it? Sorry for so many questions, but your setup looks very similar to my situation (e.g. metal building, metal roof). Thanks, rvb rvb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryCarroll Posted July 27, 2006 Share Posted July 27, 2006 Rick, I'll hafta take some pictures of the inside--no trouble I cut the hole with avaitor snips, I have right and left cut heavy duty ones. It put a cramp in my hands though! I used a real thin blade on my 4 1/2" angle grinder to make a square cut first --then finished up with the snips. The hole is marked 12"-- cut 10 1/2"--then made 1" wide tabs folded at the 12" mark. The 12" pipe is clamped to the wall with a strap around the tabs that fit around the pipe inside the building. The pipe is braced inside and out with conduit. The turbin works great! With the wind or without. The turbin is 2' above the peak of the roof. I went through the wall cause the warrenty on the roof would have been voided if I punched a hole in it. Email me and I'll send some detailed info. Oh yeah--the turbin with the collar and gear was less than $30 at Lowes--made in the U.S. of A.! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Barter Posted July 28, 2006 Share Posted July 28, 2006 Jerry, That'd be great to get some interior pictures. I'll drop you an email as soon as I can. I've been working like a wildman this week and have had no time to get to it. rvb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryCarroll Posted July 30, 2006 Share Posted July 30, 2006 Rick, here's an inside shot of what I described in my last post.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=437&stc=1&d=1154230986 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
element Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 So i was shopping for chimney pipe yesterday and like many other people i could not get pipe bigger than 8 inch,they could get 12 inch galvanize but i did not buy it. I came home pretty frustrated! Not to worry i sat down and read the old post until i found somebody say you could snap two halves together. I had a few 6 inchers and put them together and voila!! instant 12 inch.:D:D:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divermike Posted December 30, 2008 Share Posted December 30, 2008 I use the corrugated culvert pipe, the only issue is with getting a good seal at the roof line as it is uneven, but the water ice shield is stretchy and works great, takes a bit of time, but it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal L Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 I have 12" HVAC duct. yes it's galvanized metal but it doesn't get anywhere near hot enough to burn any of the coating off. It can be purchased locally at a HVAC supply house Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ten Hammers Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 I have grain auger pipe. Stainless rain cap. works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neal L Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 I do keep my eyes open for something better than the HVAC duct. but its been there for about four years not with no problems. My chimney is straight through the roof so no elbows to corrode away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark hendricks Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 (edited) ]I got my 12" at Mc Master Car. They also have stainless.McMaster-Carr Edited December 31, 2008 by mark hendricks hyper link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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