stryder

Jeff; contact your local chimney sweep, our go to your wood burning appliance shop. new liner type pipe is available. also the zero clearance type fireplaces have 9' and 10' chimneys. these are usually triple wall design, air cooled, and require 2' min clearance to any combustible material. i have cleaned these units for 18 years and they hold up well if maintained properly. if you install properly i dont see a problem as coal falls into the ( national fire protection agency code 211 ) solid fuel appliance categorie, the same for woodburning fireplaces, stoves, and pellet burning appliances. if you buy new stainless liner make sure to get alloy 316 instead of 304 as 316 resists acids in coal , and 304 does same for wood. hope this will help. George aslo as a footnote, galvinized pipe is only used on gas fired appliances, not gas forges and definately not as a solid fuel vent. as many posts as ive seen about "Paw-Paw" im surprised to see it mentioned here. i wouldnt have passed my national certification test if i had even implied galvinized pipe was satisfactory as a vent for solid fuel. if ive stepped on toes, i apologize but, i would rather offend than hear of heavy metal poisoning to anyone.

I always set the support box then went up with the chimney till i got close to the roof, remember lateral bracing as needed to keep system rigid. this can be simple straping tape or 2" wide sheet metal of light guage. i then use a level against the pipe and a pencil to mark the outline on the roof, run a screw up in several spots on the pencil line up thru the roof. then i go up top find the screws sticking up, and (depending on what type of flashing used the flexible is best for metal roof) center flashing and mark inside outline onto roof. cut out that hole and your'e there. finish chimney and seal flashing. hope i haven't rambled on. Stryder

Rick, you should be good with 19.5 inches, pipe should be about 16" depending on the brand. watch for birds , they like to fill the air spaces with nesting material, no air flow bad fire! triple wall is a problem there, whereas double wall has no openings, just costs more. good luck, Stryder

yesteryearforge, that is one fine anvil stand!! thanks for the input. George

here is a pic of my new anvil, a 260 JHM Competitor. i am studying the different stands posted here to best decide how to build mine. thanks, George

Tom, hi, i agree with irnsrgn on the side draft. i was a certified chimney sweep for 18 years, the code on solid fuel vents is 3' above the roofline, or 2' above anything within 10'. (sorry rthibeau !) i would get a ceiling support kit (it supports the chimney weight and adapts single wall to double wall) and go up from the bottom of the rafter. class A pipe needs 2" clearance to combustibles. flashing, storm collar, and cap. some systems void the warranty if all applicable parts aren't in said system, so read the fine print! i have seen the seals henrythe8th was talking about and they are it for metal roofing, i would trim the silicone seal back about an inch and put the storm collar on over it. this type of system saves the most money as a thru the wall system requires so much more class A , and various parts. also look for 316 alloy which is resistant to coal soot and the acids that form inside. a good resource is Copperfield Chimney Supply, out of Fairfield Iowa. www.copperfield.com good luck and i hope this helps. George

i havent seen anyone mention grader blades. the edges are replaceable and usually free to haul off. i have a couple to play with. George

i believe it is together right as the clinker breaker is up in the cone. if i were to flip it ther wouldnt be clearance. sounds like a table or a stone forge with refractory is the way to go. i was unsure about needing a firepot on top of the square part with the cone. any other opinions welcome. Thanks, George

BT; thanks for your input. Tunas is a wide spot in the road,we have a large mennonite community here as well. close to Lake of the Ozarks. anyway thanks, George

Hi, thanks in advance for your patience and advice. I bought this forge pot and a champion 400 blower at a antique mall. $68.50. overall height 6", length 17.50". square area 10.1/8" x 10.1/8" . handle 24" long. air outlet opening 1.7/8", and 1.75" high off of plate.clinker breaker is 3.50" x 3.50". no name or numbers cast in. my question is what type of forge it came from so i can construct something of similar size so it will work at its best. i know i need to construct a table ,should i use powdered refractory, or brick. does it need the tuyere (the round piece of steel with slots i've seen on ebay) there are no mounting holes either so would i take out the 3 bolts and mount square on top and connect rest under table ? i have a champion rivet forge, and this is alot bigger so thought i would ask. Glenn, advised that i warm it in a slow oven to adjust it back to heating, but its a bit large for my oven. any help or advice is welcome and thanks for your time! George

not too sure about your question, but i new a guy who made some nice filet knives from BIG sawzall type blades. he was using stock removal method and turned out some nice blades. wish i knew what type blades they were, if anyone knows... anyway i think the L-6 is mostly the wood cutting type bandsaw mills. thanks, Stryder

Dennis, that looks very nice. i wouldnt go giving up allready, scales are difficult at times and at other times they are a breeze. keep putting them out and it will get easier. use good epoxy( you probably allready know this) slower setting the better and resist the temptation to fiddle with the knife for at least 24 hours to effect a good cure. again i think you did a good job, i would be proud to use the knife in kitchen or camp. Thanks, George

Kallsme'n: you do such nice work!! thanks for all the pictures of your work, shop, anvils, tools, and more. how about a blueprint of the lightball? Stryder

Glenn , fluff was refering to the xxxx jph was recieving, I was out of town and missed the deleted post . I was trying to be nice and apologize. I am very aware that I am recieving tutaledge from master's of the craft. I dont enjoy the fact that my thread, to gain knowledge, has started xxxx, or (fluff). I simply wanted to know how to begin to try to make some beautiful metal. I appreciate this forum and all the info contained therein. what I dont understand is all the intalking, lets stick to the point. I dont have unlimited resources and cant waste money buying books that dont quite tell me what I need to know. Can't we all just get along?? As a newbie, all this doesn't look too good coming from "masters" so lets all play nice . Thanks for the opportunity to learn, think I'll keep my comments to myself in the future. JPH , thanks so much for your gracious offers , I will e-mail you after I get this out of town job done. thanks, stryder Edit: words adjusted

gosh, i didnt mean to start a bunch of fluff!! i appreciate your comments and help. yes i am green, but have no mentor local to guide me through this. i have forge welded before, i was confused. a buddy of mine made some cool steel with barry gallagher up in montana, it was powdered steel they put in a container and welded up, forged, pressed cut etc into some cool patterned steel. i was under the impression that i needed to arc weld the edges until it was forge welded. i will buy the book so i can understand the process better, and then maybe i will post somemore questions. JPH, sorry for the negative comments. i guess people should relax a little and have fun with this cool hobby/ proffession . Thanks to all for your expertise and advice, have a great day!!, Stryder

i was a chimney sweep for 15 years, and my 2 cents are, build the chimney as tall as possible, a chimney works mechanically , on pressure.the pressure at ground level is greater than the pressure 20 feet up so you get draft. the taller the chimney the more warmed air it can hold as to increase the draft. the rule of thumb is 3 feet above the roof or 2 feet above anything within 10 feet. keep in mind that anything within 25 feet can affect the draft. it takes aminimum of 12 to 15 feet of pipe or tile to be an effective chimney. use as few offsets or elbows as possible, no more than 2 , 90 degree elbows in a run. or 4 , 45s which equals 90. the straighter the better. plenty of wind bracing tying to structure. a good cap with spark guard also keeps rain out, which when mixed with the soot in the chimney creates a mild acid which can eat out mortar joints as well as pipe. also use the right alloy of pipe if going with a stainless steel system. 304 alloy for wood, and i forget the alloy # for coal,as i never used any and didnt memorize it, will post it when i get home. also copperfield chimney supply is the place for these materials. hope this helps, and remember to keep chimney cleaned on a regular basis. Thanks, Stryder

i can weld fairly well a little rusty but ,... which leads to a new question. which # of rod to use, can i use a 7014, or should i use a 6013, or 6011??? the nice thing about a 7014 is that the slag lifts right up leaving a fairly beautiful bead, as opposed to chipping and brushing and chipping some more. as you can tell i only have a stick welder, have to wish more till a mig comes to live here. yes i am just getting started to try to make my own damascus, as well as hand made knives. i am learning alot from you all, THANKS!! so anyway weld it up good with my lincoln, heat to welding temp in the forge and weld with a cross peen. what then grind the weld off and continue folding and welding untill i get as many layers as i want?? any reading material i should pick up?? there are so many books out there i am unsure as to which to pick up so as to not waste money and time by buying a book that doesnt quite meet the specifics of pattern welding or making damascus. also i fully expect to ruin some steel, which is probably an understatement!!!! Thanks so much for your input, Stryder

Thanks for the info!! i am of to hunt for some saw blades. a guy i know has a portable band saw mill, will check about dead blades. have a great day. George

I have a piece of 1095 hi carbon steel, what would i mix with it to have a good contrasting color in the finished steel? I need to learn more about steel grades and what to use, what to stay away from. any books i should read ? my main intrest is making knives and the tools needed to compliment the forge. Thanks, George

Hello All; i spent an hour reading posts here and am humbled by the vast amount of knowledge available, by so many skilled craftsmen, and ladies! Thanks! My name is george, I live in Tunas, Missouri. we like to float the rivers, fish, camp, garden, and am starting to expand my love of knives into making them from scratch, instead of using the pre made blades available. Althugh there is nothing wrong with these blades. I made a flint striker on a forge ( early 80's at missouri town) with the help of the blacksmith. was hooked. it took a while but have finally started to gather tools needed to forge and hammer. still need a real anvil but have aquired a forge, have a peice of rail iron, various hammers, a pair of tongs,etc. also recieved my grandfathers saw sharpening equipment so am just about set to begin with. I look forward to try to learn as much as I can with as few Stupid questions as possible!! Thanks for your patience and information!! Have a great day! George