Brasilikilt Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Hey all After seriously combing through the weeds for a good anvil to buy, I've gotten rather frustrated with the results. Thanks to all of you who have helped with advice and/or offered to sell me their extra anvils, but shipping from back east is too expensive. I've been going through past threads on here looking at cheap, and easy to build home made anvil designs and have come up with many ideas. I haven't decided exactly what style I want to make, but it will have to be unique if I am to spend so much time and energy putting it together. A lot of this depends on the size/shape steel I can find for the body I'm thinking that a piece of mild steel (which I have been told has similar qualities as wrought iron) with a tool steel face welded on as a striking surface should serve quite well. I was thinking about using a section of forklift fork, but that might prove to be tricky to find around here. The MetalSupermarkets around here has a wide selection of tool steel on their website I was wondering as to what would be the best choice of steel to use as an anvil face They have A2, A6, D2, H13, M2, NAK55, 01, P20, S5 I know that tool steel can be tough stuff to work with, so material that isn't crazy difficult to weld or grind on is preferred. Any hints, tips, suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Iain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Look at the Brian Brazeal anvil. Brian does a lot of work across that anvil. There are HayBuddin and Fulton anvils in seattle-tacoma area listed on the internet. You will have to call the seller for prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt87 Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 First question: how's your welding? What tools do you have/can you use? Do you know how to use them correctly and safely? As well as looking at the threads on here take a look at the anvil-making articles on Anivlfire.com there's some very interesting ideas there. Remember that heat-treating such a large piece of steel is no walk in the park. Not only do you need to be able to heat and quench it correctly but you need to be able to move it around -- not only do you have the weight to contend with but the sheer amount of heat radiated as IR will be... blistering... Is this to be your first anvil? If so keep it simple. As in the rest of life when smithing there's not much that's essential (but a lot that's handy to have!). The 'standard' anvil through most of history and prehistory was a roughly 4" cube (20lb) of wrought iron. With a hammer, fire and stock a smith should be able to make everything else needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason L Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 I too have had an impossible time finding an anvil. I've only seen two in my life around here and I saw both of them last week hidden on a pallet of cast iron where I work. They are both good anvils (one is a Fisher and the other says M&H Armitage Mouse Hole on it.) but they belong to my boss who won't sell anything that might be an antique because he's saving them for his retirement. Other than that, I've never seen an anvil around here. Money being tight like it is, the expense of an anvil is ridiculously out of my league as the price on most of them are comparable to a used car. Most of the people who have spares want to hold on to them. I've got railroad track and I've got a cast iron anvil that I had to drive an hour to find but I'd like to have a real honest to goodness steel anvil with a decent horn and decent edges. Something with a pritchel hole would be nice too. It seems to me that somewhere out there there should be an anvil manufacturer that produces decent anvils at an affordable price. I know I'm just spittin in the wind but it would still be nice to find someone out there that realizes anvils are made of steel and not gold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlotte Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Join the forge council they will fix you up. Anvils have been selling on ebay for 2.50 lb or so recently. ALABAMA FORGE COUNCIL Pres: James Batson 176 Brentwood Drive Madison, AL 35758 256-971-6860jbbatson@knology.net Ed: Bill Richardson 16795 Linton Road Athens, AL 35613 256-233-6189unclebill@pclnet.netAFC - Alabama Forge Council Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason L Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 I have contacted the AFC but am waiting a reply. They're suppose to send me some literature or something. There's a chapter south of me about an hour and the two gentlemen you mention are almost 3 hours away. Hopefully I'll get the info soon, I'm really interested in building up my tools and getting everything going. Like I said, an anvil isn't an absolute must since I have a cast iron one (not Harbor Freight by the way) and two pieces of RR track. I'd just like to have one. Really like to that is lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 How close are you to Molalla or Forest Grove? There are cheap anvils listed on craigs list at both of those towns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvillain Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 I understand the frustration, I had the same trouble, when first looking for an anvil. First, don't panic. You will soon have more anvils than you can imagine. Until then, if you are just getting started, and with limited tools and/or experience. If you can find any large shaft or square bar 3 or more inches in dia x 24" long, use it vertically. Radius the edges with file or grinder and you will have a good solid place to work hot iron. Don't worry about tool steel, you don't need it. You will need to support it so it won't wobble or fall over. I suggest wood for a frame to hold it upright. This will get you started. You could use it forever or wait until you find a good buy on an anvil. It is true that the horn will be missing, but you can find ways to work around that. Getting started forging is the main thing. more important than having every tool you read about. Once started, if the bug has really bitten you, you will find a way. Good Luck, Anvillain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 There is a 75# anvil in Lillian, AL, and a 90# hay Budden in Jasper, AL. There is a 169# Hay Budden in Ashland Or. Also try this linkThomas Powers Applied Anvil Acquisition Technique Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brasilikilt Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share Posted July 20, 2009 (edited) How close are you to Molalla or Forest Grove? There are cheap anvils listed on craigs list at both of those towns. I drove out to Molalla last night and picked up that little 70 lb Vulcan in pretty dinged up shape. Paid too much for it, but at least it's something with a hardy and pritchel. Funny thing is that it does seem to have some rebound and ring. I was expecting a dull thud and my hammer laying dead on the anvil face.There is a 75# anvil in Lillian, AL, and a 90# hay Budden in Jasper, AL. There is a 169# Hay Budden in Ashland Or. I've emailed the Ashland people twice with no response Edited July 20, 2009 by Brasilikilt forgot some things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DennisG Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 my anvil made a thud noise too when struck with no ring or rebound to speak of, but it is cast iron, no facing. if yours is also solid cast iron hold on as I am in the middle of putting a face on it and if what I do to it works then maybe it will work for you too. of course maybe yours is not cast and others know why it thuds. iether way good luck and hammering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arftist Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Good for you man. It is a start, and most likely better than a block of steel. When you figure the work to add a hardy hole and shape a horn, you may not think you paid too much after all. Like Anvillian said, now that you have one, they will start turning up. I find one for sale about every other year, and now and then I buy one, but often a freind or aprentice ends up with my latest purchase rather quickly. I have three that I will never sell, a fisher-eagle, a hay-budden, and worn beyond all recognition sway-backer that I use for straightening, often cold, which I wouldn't do on a good anvil. Enjoy your new toy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brasilikilt Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 Anvillian should be the Nostradamus of blacksmith tools I just found a #178 Trenton that's kinda dinged-up on the edges, but still usable. The guy selling it was nice enough to tap it with a hammer so I could hear it ring over the phone....sounded like a bell. My wife thought that the anvil search would be over after I got the little 70 lb Vulcan, so she *really* doesn't like the idea of me getting another. She doesn't understand that the difference between the two is like the difference between a Vespa and a Harley Davidson. The little Vulcan anvil DOES have a ring to it, and some rebound. It should make a nice travel anvil if I decide to keep it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anvillain Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Hey Kilt, Glad you found an anvil. Happy hammering to you. A Trenton is a great anvil. Don't worry too much if it isn't perfect. I have had a Trenton, and it was also very musical. My ears prefer the softer tone of the Peter Wright that I kept. I won't re-open the discussion on anvil repair, since it has been tossed around quite a bit before. Anvillain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadyn Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 I'm still contemplating making my own anvil. Would A2 be an acceptable steel for an anvil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweany Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 If you don't have to weld it.Miller - TIG Welding Repair is Best For Extending Tool Life, Quick Return to Production Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rikadyn Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Eh? I'm looking at maybe a 6inx12inx18in or so piece it's like a 1.15/lb or so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 A2 is an air hardening tool steel-no quench needed, and I have made die sets, corker jaws, and other items with it. Welding it could also prove problematic. For a hammering surface I would look into S7 shock resistant steel, 1045-1095, or just run a bunch of hardfacing rod like HT600. When I was going to my local junior college they used bulldozer blade for the faces. The body was made up of a stack of pattern torched 2" plate, and a lot of 1/16" innershield to put them together. The horn was a turned bar that was welded to the front, and the dozer blade welded to the top. If I remember right they went in the 175#-200# range when done. Not bad when you consider the steel used was .10 a pound scrap, and all of he welding supplies etc were included in your class fee of $15 at the time. The instructor ( Dave Nourot ) had a full smithy out in the back of the welding class :cool: My Dad bought a 206# Fisher Eagle circa 1907 from a ranch in the CA foothills outside of Sacramento. He said that they had a post vise that had been attached to an oak tree a long time ago, and the only part visible was the outer jaw, and handle. Yep, it still worked. I found a 260# Swedish made anvil circa 1922 at a high school equipment auction. Dad found another 125#? (possible Vulcan) anvil at another high school that was shutting down the industrial arts depts. Over the last two weeks on Craigslist I have bought a 160?# Hay Budden in great shape-he had 2 ,but kept the rougher one, along with a Champion forge, Buffalo forge, tongs, hardies, fullers, coal from an estate sale. Then this weekend I picked up a 160# JHM journeyman farriers anvil circa 1997, stand, propane forge, and some small tools from a retired farrier. I also know where another anvil is, as I drive past it quite often. It is sitting on the ground.outside of a guys shop. I have only seen it moved once in 3 years, so I am going to inquire on that one this weekend. I have found numerous tongs, and other tools at automotive swap meets in the $3-$5 a pair range. Once you get some tools they become like Tribbles (old school Star Trek), and then you have tons of them. All of the anvils were around a $1 per pound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
relichuntr Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Like AnVillain said, "...getting started forging is the main thing...". I don't have a 'real' anvil, either. I use a large block of dark green granite with a smooth face, and it works very well. Centuries before the steel anvils of today were developed, folks used stone. It might not have all the variety and convenience of the current incarnation, but you can do just about everything you need to with it. Best of all, it cost me nothing but effort to haul it home and put it up on the stump! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akad Posted August 13, 2009 Share Posted August 13, 2009 Try to find some outdoors-y type of magazines, that's where I got mine. It's a pretty standard 70# anvil with no fancy things, just a flat surface and a horn. (although it's actually only 65#, but it was fairly cheap, less than $100 i know, i'll check the actual price sometime. I think the fact that "CHINA" was printed on it, with the "N" backwards is a pretty good reflection of the quality of said piece of equipment. Also, try looking through a scrap yard for a piece of old railroad rail. that's what I used as my first anvil, and it works really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcrous Posted September 13, 2009 Share Posted September 13, 2009 A Cast Iron anvil is not the end of the world. A late friend of mine had one and he used a milling machine (fly cutter) and skimmed a section of the top face so that it was lower than the table and the n he added a hard piece of milled / skimmed hard steel which he welded in place. He used that revamped anvil without problems and in cost him very little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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