Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Built on a chevy engine block, a one weekend project for a couple of old geezers!YouTube - The Original Junk Yard Hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
divermike Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 That was well done, thanks for sharing!! amazing what you all come up with. what is the aprox weight?? could you cut the block down and save weight and space?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Grant, Neat job. I also looked at you converted steam hammer. All of the Erie's we had at the valve shop were set up with the combined motion and throttle set up. We had a ratchet affair that allowe the adjustment between the two. These were Erie double frame machines from 1500 to 25,000# Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
element Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Aha, that is so cool. Does the flywheel mass add to striking power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 12, 2009 Author Share Posted July 12, 2009 divermike: Well, you could, but with a hammer what you want is more weight in the base not less. PTree: Should have posted this on the on the "'Nuther video thread". Yeah, open die hammers were always built with the two hand lever control. The linkage on the die forging hammers did inspire this one. Great to be able to control both with one foot lever. element: No, the flywheel would not add to the striking force. The ram was around 25 lbs, but part of the oak beam weight adds a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftjcook Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Grant, That was really great, Thanks for sharing !!! Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted July 12, 2009 Share Posted July 12, 2009 Nice helve hammer.:cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 Ptree: Actually my linkage is superior! The linkage on a die forging hammer has a fixed relationship between the steam and motion valves depending on where the handle is set. With mine, I get a variable control, when I bring the treadle down slowly, the motion lever only travels a little, when I "snap" it down, the motion lever travels further due to inertia. Also I have the separate motion control right at hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 When you look at any of my videos, be sure to check out "More from NAKEDANVIL". I've got six videos up and putting up more all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ptree Posted July 13, 2009 Share Posted July 13, 2009 Grant, the set up we had was pretty standard in the closed die industry. A hard step on the treadle gave that harder sharper blow, probably from inertia as well, as there were springs in the complex linkage. The ratchet was to set the tup, as these were steam. Nice easy tup to warm and to idle, then speed up a bit prior to use to get everything nice and warm, and not get a condensate slug. The treadles were on a compound linkage as well, and you could come down and grease a watch ctystal, of bust a 1500# billet hard with a 25,000#er. Saw the hammerman win a number of bets by greaseing the top die, and just putting a goodly smear on a wristwatch crystal:) I assume you have an external air compressor running the hammer, why the tupping? need to draw air from the compressor to keep the pop off from lifting? In steam you tup to keep warm, and even up the steam draw from the boiler. Most steam to air conversions I have seen eleminate tupping to save the energy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 13, 2009 Author Share Posted July 13, 2009 (edited) Ptree: Yeah, I know what you're talking about, I've owned a few Chambersburg and Erie die forging hammers, not quite the size you're talking about, but they had the same linkage. First off, I'm comparing mine to other open die hammers, not die forgers for the most part. Tupping (or idling) has advantages when you don't have unlimited power. With the hammer idling I can step on the treadle as the ram is nearly to the top, "bounce" off the top and get a much harder blow than I could if the hammer was "parked" in the middle. With these open die hammers, if you park at the top and step on the treadle, the hammer will be hitting the head. If you park a die forging hammer too high you run the risk of hitting the top pretty hard. What happens is this: The hammer is going up and you let off the treadle, there's already a slug of air under the piston and you're sending the motion "up", crash! If you park the ram up (without idling) with many of the small utility hammers, when you step on the treadle, they won't start cycling, they are centered and just kinda "stall". I once had an 800lb Erie open die hammer that was running from a barely adequate compressor. My experience with that was that it used less air idling than holding in an up position. May not always be true, but I like to follow my experience rather than my theory. OBTW: I always plumbed my hammers right off the compressor outlet before it went through the cooler, they seemed to like hot, wet air. Less freezing that way too, a problem with running hammers on air in an unheated building in the winter. It IS kinda cool seeing a big hammer spittin' big chunks of ice out though! Edited July 13, 2009 by nakedanvil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triw Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 wow totolly awsome I liked your video and how you show the steps I am impressed thank you. GREAT JOB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurlyGeorge Posted July 14, 2009 Share Posted July 14, 2009 Great job, Grant. My Oliver don't look so cool no more!! LOL. I like the engineering. Thanks for videoing that and sharing it with us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 Pretty slick Grant, you and Jack must make a dangerous pair. What do you lube the piston with, oil, grease, nada? How fast is it running? Looks around 180-200 to me. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver Posted July 15, 2009 Author Share Posted July 15, 2009 Coming from you, I'll take that as the insult I'm sure it was meant to be. Grease is always good for things that get ignored. Yeah, that's pretty much my favorite speed range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 15, 2009 Share Posted July 15, 2009 Gee, and it was the nicest thing I could think of to say. Guess I'll stop trying. I like them running in that range too though I'm woefully short on power hammer time so I'm not in a hurry. Got mine running today in fact, finally gave up on trying to figure out why the motor won't run on 230v and changed it over to 120v. I was just in the process of heating a bar when Deb called wanting a ride home from her Tuesday spinning meet. I didn't give the bar much soak time but still enjoyed bearing it down a bit before hitting the road. I knew it'd time it like this, refuse to cooperate till I found myself a retirement job. Part time delivering rental equipment and materials. . . 50-60 hrs/wk. . . Part time. Oh well, I'm shaking the rust off my Road Ranger technique and that's always handy. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBower Posted July 16, 2009 Share Posted July 16, 2009 That's really cool. Very creative, very sensible use of materials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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