June 19, 200916 yr Okay let me ask you all this.. is A36 better then a cast iron ASO as far as hardness and rebound go? Oh yeah, no question. Frosty
June 19, 200916 yr Oh yeah, no question. Frosty I actually called up grizzly to ask about their ASO's because i've seen them on numerous occasions. They do not have a tool steel face, the whole anvil is cast iron, although their tech couldn't say with absolute certainty. I asked him if there is any hardness spec, any rockwell measurements, and he said they have none. This anvil is made specifically for grizzly tool. Has their logo on the side, so it's disheartening that they no so little about their own ASO anvils. Think i'll go with either a real anvil (non-ASO) or the block of steel like the brazeal brothers.
June 19, 200916 yr Anyone know how these guys held this block in here? Is the block sitting in a "U" channel? How exactly are feet welded onto this? What is the best technique here to get the feet under the mass?
June 19, 200916 yr Looks like a bolt head in front of the hammer sitting on it's head to me. My guess is there are 2 bolts that go all the way through the plate. Also appears that has been dancing across the floor from the looks of the concrete. Drifter
June 19, 200916 yr Yah I can see the bolts. but is it sitting in a U channel and welded to that? Or are there two pieces of thick angle iron both sitting at 90dg angles, both facing the same way?
June 19, 200916 yr It's angle iron, welded to the stand with the anvil through bolted between them. Brian's a member here, I think this is his set up. Give him a shout. Frosty
June 19, 200916 yr I have been trying to find out the same thing, Avadon; how the anvil is attached to the stand. There is another version of their anvil, but I'm still not sure how is it attached to the stand. On the second photo you can see the leg disposition as he described in your other thread about stands, but I still can't see how it is mounted. I think, as Frosty said, angle iron but not sure if bolted or welded or both. Rub
June 19, 200916 yr I have been trying to find out the same thing, Avadon; how the anvil is attached to the stand. There is another version of their anvil, but I'm still not sure how is it attached to the stand. On the second photo you can see the leg disposition as he described in your other thread about stands, but I still can't see how it is mounted. I think, as Frosty said, angle iron but not sure if bolted or welded or both. Rub
June 19, 200916 yr The angle iron is welded flange in to form a groove or box as wide as the anvil is thick. The angle iron is part of the stand. The anvil drops into the slot or box and is through bolted. This seems pretty evident to me. If the plate wasn't so tall (less top heavy) the angle iron could be used as feet without it being welded to the stand. Have you looked for a members listing? Have you tried a search using "Brian Brazeal" as your search terms? If those don't work you could simply start another thread with title something like, "Brian Brazeal how is your plate anvil secured?" I'm sure he or Kathy will reply as soon as they see it. Frosty
June 19, 200916 yr ahh that makes more sense. They must have cut though that bottom flange or they used offset angle iron. They have 2" plate and it looks like one side of the angle iron is 3" so the other side must be cut or stacked under the other angle. I emailed him Brian on mysace but i'll try to get his attention here. I got their email address if anyone is interested. pm me if you want it. Once I get the info I'll post it here for the curious. ;) Edited June 19, 200916 yr by Avadon
June 20, 200916 yr No, nothing so complicated. Place two pieces of angle iron together flat to flat on the stand frame, it'll make an upside down "T". Mark and drill two holes through them in matching locations. Now slide them apart just enough to slip the plate anvil between them and weld them to the stand. Now mark and drill matching holes in the plate anvil, slip it into the clamp, slip two bolts through the holes and tighten in place with nuts. Frosty
June 21, 200916 yr Anyone know how these guys held this block in here? Is the block sitting in a "U" channel? How exactly are feet welded onto this? What is the best technique here to get the feet under the mass? Frosty has it figured out. That was a picture taken at Austin Community College before we went to Europe. The anvil and stand were just anchored to the concrete not dancing across the floor, that's why you see the electrical cord and the concrete dust. I'm sorry that I haven't been on the sight much lately, but I've been gone alot and our computer has been having some problems.
June 22, 200916 yr No, nothing so complicated. Place two pieces of angle iron together flat to flat on the stand frame, it'll make an upside down "T". Mark and drill two holes through them in matching locations. Now slide them apart just enough to slip the plate anvil between them and weld them to the stand. Now mark and drill matching holes in the plate anvil, slip it into the clamp, slip two bolts through the holes and tighten in place with nuts. Frosty That may be one way to mount it but if you look at the top down photo you can see the hammer racks. So there is no angle iron sticking outwards. I'm still under the belief he created something akin to a bottomless box for the anvil to sit in.
June 22, 200916 yr That may be one way to mount it but if you look at the top down photo you can see the hammer racks. So there is no angle iron sticking outwards. I'm still under the belief he created something akin to a bottomless box for the anvil to sit in. I would suggest that foreshortening is hiding the 'ears' or 'flanges'.
June 22, 200916 yr I would suggest that foreshortening is hiding the 'ears' or 'flanges'. What do you mean by "foreshortening"? hiding the dimensions of the angle iron.
June 22, 200916 yr What do you mean by "foreshortening"? hiding the dimensions of the angle iron.Let me google that for you ;)
June 22, 200916 yr Let me google that for you Thanks for the sarcasm. I wasn't questioning the word but why you think it applies here. Obviously if it had the flange out the hammers could not sit where they are. Notice the hammer heads are almost touching the base of the anvil so it is not a distortion from perspective. I'll have to find out from Brian because guessing (like your doing) isn't good enough for me.
June 22, 200916 yr Avadon, That last anvil and stand was made by my brother, Ed, while I was In Europe. It is a box with a solid bottom. Ed used what he had on hand. There have been several people who have made a similar anvil and stand since we did ours years ago, but the most important thing to keep in mind is the mount. The anvil needs to be mounted to the stand so they act as one piece, and then that needs to be mounted to the Earth. I have my anvil at my shop here anchored into the concrete, and when I'm hitting hard, tools will jump off my other anvils and stands. My anvil should have its own foundation poured like you would do for a power hammer, but I travel with it alot, so I have different lengths of spikes for different soil types and that helps. I've worked on many different setups and the mount is more important than the weight.
June 22, 200916 yr Thanks for the sarcasm. I wasn't questioning the word but why you think it applies here. Obviously if it had the flange out the hammers could not sit where they are. Notice the hammer heads are almost touching the base of the anvil so it is not a distortion from perspective. I'll have to find out from Brian because guessing (like your doing) isn't good enough for me. I believe the face of the anvil is hiding most of the flages due to foreshortening. The anvil is something like 12" high and the camera probably less than that above the anvil. Notice that the flanges appear to be visible beyond the second tool (the narrower fuller), where the full width of the anvil at that point occurs several inches closer to the flanges (further down). I can also just about detect a slight 'lip' below the 'lower' edge of the anvil which appears to be part of this flange also. The anvil in the above picture is different to the one shown here EDIT: as now confirmed by Brian; notice the order and nature of the tools. Therefore direct comparison of the photos to determine flange length would be misleading.
June 22, 200916 yr Avadon, That last anvil and stand was made by my brother, Ed, while I was In Europe. It is a box with a solid bottom. Ed used what he had on hand. There have been several people who have made a similar anvil and stand since we did ours years ago, but the most important thing to keep in mind is the mount. The anvil needs to be mounted to the stand so they act as one piece, and then that needs to be mounted to the Earth. I have my anvil at my shop here anchored into the concrete, and when I'm hitting hard, tools will jump off my other anvils and stands. My anvil should have its own foundation poured like you would do for a power hammer, but I travel with it alot, so I have different lengths of spikes for different soil types and that helps. I've worked on many different setups and the mount is more important than the weight. Thanks for the help Brian. I meant to call you earlier today but it's been hectic here. Yes, I do like Ed's version of the bolted box and i'll put it on some thick plate with some heavy legs. I like the fact that you can stand so close to it, but both more or less have that feature. I'm sure i'll use some caulking inside the box as well. What kind of ties do you use to stake the anvil to earth? Some kind of corkscrew or straight long stake? I don't think it will jump all that much. The anvil+stand will be around high 200's maybe even 300#'s. I'll start working on it in a few days when the plate arrives (literally) at my door. Should be another good example of your proof of concept. :D
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