Fe-Wood Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 A friend loaned me his anvil after he picked up a 250# PW... I won't go into all the anvil envy stuff:D But I will say its a beuty!!! Anyway I'd been planning a new stand for some time for my anvil, Had all the materials laying around etc. So I decided I'd put his on the new stand as I'll be using it more than mine. Heavier by about 50 #'s It will be nice not to have all my tongs, hammers and tooling all over the floor, benches and projects. For once, they have a home!!! *Note the cone mandrel in the center of the legs* Speeking of legs, I plan to fill them with lead as sone as I figure out how to dispose of battery acid safely.... Yes, Those are bullet holes:p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweany Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 I like it! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Nice looking stand. Bullet holes? Don't you have a drill or punch? Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisB Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Most tire shops will give you a bucket of wheel weights if you ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 Nice idea ChrisB, Thanks!!! Opps, Thought I posted a picture that showed the heal...and bullet holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewIron Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 I bought a PW weighing in at 395lbs. With a tree stump stand. Did you consider the height for hammering? I am thinking of what would work for me. Thanks NewIron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewIron Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 I like your quote. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 Now theres a can-o-worms, see thread on anvil hight. Here is what I did- With my favorite hammer in hand, arm in the finished blow possition (what would be hammer head resting on the anvil) with a little bend in my hammering elbow, maybe 10-15 Deg. That distance from the floor to the bottom face of the hammer head determind my confortable anvil hight... If memory serves me correctly (don't count on it:p) My stand is 21.75" with my anvil being about 10", for a combined hight of 31.75" Depending on what type of work you do, you don't want your arm fully extended as this can cause damage to your elbow. 395#'s huh, I'm fealing another case of anvil envy comming on:D Nice score!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Your anvil face should be between wrist and knuckle height. The heavier the work you do the lower you should mount it within that range, the finer the work the higher. Where ever you mount it you'll adjust soon and it'll become comfortable. If for some reason it is NOT comfortable change the height! It isn't worth the elbow problems that will result just to stay withing the "accepted" range. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipeliner32 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Nice stand, fe wood did you tack weld your anvil to the plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 why bother with trying to pour lead into the legs.. why not just use sand, shot, or even water? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted June 12, 2009 Author Share Posted June 12, 2009 Avadon- Lead has the advantage of being heavier by volume and I have several hundred pounds of it... so its free, sorta.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 (edited) Avadon- Lead has the advantage of being heavier by volume and I have several hundred pounds of it... so its free, sorta.... Do you have to pour that in one shot? Or can you pour it section by section? I would just be careful, lead has nasty vapors and one drop can give a really evil looking burn. Sand is a lot easier to remove ;-) as well, but probably also has a greater degree of dampening and vibration reduction then the lead would offer. But as you said the lead is heavier. I suppose if someone just wants weight you could add anything, even concrete. Just wear all your protective fear if you do the lead. I've only done a little smelting of lead pieces for a chess set I once made. Worked out quite well. You could also weld some feet with some holes for bolting it down. Ps.. I like that ring you made around the anvili for holding tongs and hammers. I may borrow that concept from yah. Edited June 13, 2009 by Avadon . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Avadon- Thanks for the concern, yes lead IS nasty stuff. Given the proper precautions and ventilation, I can pour it in sections... I'm also looking for weight/mass as the anvil on the stand now is about 165#. Not as heavy (or nice) as yours...(anvil envy coming on). Once the legs have been filled it might weigh in at about 200-225#. I think the legs are a great place for lead to reside...Incapsulated, and yes, I plan to weld feet with bolt holes after I fill the legs. Help yourself to the ring idea... So far, I really like how its working out. Hay- where is the Onyx Abyss? I did a google search and found nothing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Avadon- Thanks for the concern, yes lead IS nasty stuff. Given the proper precautions and ventilation, I can pour it in sections... I'm also looking for weight/mass as the anvil on the stand now is about 165#. Not as heavy (or nice) as yours...(anvil envy coming on). Once the legs have been filled it might weigh in at about 200-225#. I think the legs are a great place for lead to reside...Incapsulated, and yes, I plan to weld feet with bolt holes after I fill the legs. Help yourself to the ring idea... So far, I really like how its working out. Hay- where is the Onyx Abyss? I did a google search and found nothing... Keep us posted on the lead thing. Seems like that is definitely something to do before you weld feet on. I don't think there is any way I could pour lead in my stand now. A cubic foot of lead weighs about 708 pounds. Water (for reference) only weighs 62.4 pounds per cubic foot. Dry sand weighs about 100 lbs. per cubic foot. So your going to get some considerable weight out of that. But of course all that weight really comes down to how anchored your anvil is to that base. Take some pics of the pouring/progress. Should be cool to see. The Onyx Abyss is north of the Pit of Despair and south by southwest from the Bog of Eternal Stench. It's a rather small and dark spot. If your not leery you may fall right in. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrispy Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Great stand, I've been contemplating making a steel stand for my anvil but am currently between two minds. Do I scarifice my old tree trunk section which currently holds all my hammers and I assume absorbs a lot of the noise. It also has a few minor splits that are useful for forming leaves cold. Have you compared the noise level on your new stand against a timber block? Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hofi Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I think that to fill the the R.H.S hollow legs of the anvil base with either send or led is a wast of time and money. just for the fun of itI tryed it .It DOSE NOT STOP the ring and the waight of the led one just donot need. If one wants to privent the anvil from mooving just bolt it to the floor very fast and easy Hofi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Avadon- will do on the pics etc. It may be a while though... Chrispy- I had my old anvil on a Pressure treated 10x12 and it rang a little. This new anvil is a loaner and I've only heard it on a steel stand... It has had some repairs done to it and consequently is a little flat on the ring but it does have a good rebound. I never put my old anvil on the new base so I don't know if its quieter. I was going to put wood or rubber between the base and anvil but don't see the need. PS. I prefer the stand over the stump. Its easier to work around. I recycled my stump into a base for my swage block and that seems to be a good fit too. Hofi- I though a heavy base was a good thing as the mass kept more of the force of the blow concentrated in the item being worked, not transfered into movement of the anvil. As far as bolting to the floor- At some point I will do that but I am still figuring out my shop layout and don't want to commit to any one spot for the anvil yet. In the last 4 months, it has moved several times for different configuration ideas. Its also a traveling anvil. Someone asked if I had welded the anvil to the base, NO. I made some "keepers" to make the anvil stay in position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Avadon Posted June 15, 2009 Share Posted June 15, 2009 Avadon- will do on the pics etc. It may be a while though... Chrispy- I had my old anvil on a Pressure treated 10x12 and it rang a little. This new anvil is a loaner and I've only heard it on a steel stand... It has had some repairs done to it and consequently is a little flat on the ring but it does have a good rebound. I never put my old anvil on the new base so I don't know if its quieter. I was going to put wood or rubber between the base and anvil but don't see the need. PS. I prefer the stand over the stump. Its easier to work around. I recycled my stump into a base for my swage block and that seems to be a good fit too. Hofi- I though a heavy base was a good thing as the mass kept more of the force of the blow concentrated in the item being worked, not transfered into movement of the anvil. As far as bolting to the floor- At some point I will do that but I am still figuring out my shop layout and don't want to commit to any one spot for the anvil yet. In the last 4 months, it has moved several times for different configuration ideas. Its also a traveling anvil. Someone asked if I had welded the anvil to the base, NO. I made some "keepers" to make the anvil stay in position. You can always weld in some bracing, steel bar like i did or what not. Then use some fasteners to cramp the anvil into position. Works incredibly well. Far, far stronger then any adhesive could every provide. I'd be surprised if a sherman tank could rip my anvil from my base. There is probably 30-40,000psi worth of fasteners locking it in there lol. I've gotta disagree with the sand/lead comment. The 50# bag of sand i used cost me $2.50 and it filled up all three of my 5x3x.025" legs as well as the cross members that hold them braced. So this is a very cheap proposition. Although I only generated an extra 50# worth of weight to my setup I don't think it hurts to have anything in the legs. Anything that adds mass and absorbs force will dissipate or absorb the applied forces you are creating. I tried my anvil for its first use on the stand I made today and was surprised that there really isn't much ring at all to it. Must just be too much mass to produce much of a ring because I don't feel like I need hearing protection even when I was really beating on a 5/8's sq rod. It's surprisingly quiet. Now I have a steel block I use outside with my coal forge. It's ring or rather "WHACK" sound is so LOUD that I think it could ring the fillings out of my neighbors teeth. It sits on a large log. What a crazy difference in these two setups lol. I'm sure there is a lot to the anvil itself as well as the stand as to what acoustics or harmonics you will recieve when working. Applied force, shape, mass, ambient air, heat, etc i'd imagine are all of things that play into what kind of "ring" or lack thereof you will recieve. I'd say if you got the lead go for it. Lead is trading at about .82c a lb. 1lb ingots will probably cost you closer to $1.25-1.50. If you can find billets you can prolly cut that down a bit. As big as my legs were I only used about 1/2-3/4 cubic foot. So you probably need less lead then you think. If it were me I would do it. Certainly is only going to help your situation. But I wouldn't run out and buy lead that I didn't have as you may spend more on the lead then you did if you just bought solid steel legs. hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tholdorimm Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 i like the stand i would have made one but i just use an old locker near my anvil for my tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 RE pouring molten lead you can reduce the amount of heat by putting in some lead cold and then pouring in liquid lead on top. The cold will melt from the heat so you will get solid lead just the same but with less effort. If it is going into the legs of a stand aesthetics aren't a consideration so any marks where the two join don't matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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