controlling and removing scale in a coal forge

[MADWORKS]

Hi everyone, I hope you're all well.
I am wondering if there are any tricks to reducing scale in a coal forge. I realize this has most likely been posted before but I can't seem to find anything on the subject. I am all ears to suggestions or links to previous posts.
Thanks!
Marc

[piglet_74]

I remember seeing a post about a deeper fire and putting the stock up higher in the fire. The idea was that more oxygen is consumed by the fire so it's a less oxidizing environment for the steel. I'll see if I can find the link though.

[piglet_74]

Here's one that lists a few good ideas.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f11/hate-asking-scale-removal-8925/

[Frosty]

If it's scaling IN the fire you're putting the steel too deep, make the fire a little deeper and place your steel higher.

If it's scaling when you take it out, that's normal and there isn't anything practical you can do to prevent it.

Frosty

[MADWORKS]

Thank you all! I think my main problem has been placing my work too low in the fire.
Cheers!

[triw]

I was taught (and what I practice) is that at least 5" of coals between your work and the air coming into the fire. At this depth the oxygen is burnt off and scaling is reduced dramatically.

[Stew]

If you do get a scale build up, a soak in vinegar will help remove it before getting the abrasives out.

[ThomasPowers]

The soak is done at room temperature, often overnight.

[Francis Trez Cole]

I was taught that the fire is like a ball. the bottom is oxidizing the middle is the right place and the top is carbonizing makes sence like the sun to close you get burnned to far away is to cool.

[blksmth]

In addition to burning up the oxygen before it gets to your iron, there is another factor and it is very important when a smooth finish is desired. That is to put the iron in the fire as few times as possible. When forging, and when possible, start forging at one end and finish it before going on to the next part. Trying not to reheating the previous finished parts. Also finish forging each part at a lower temperature (low red to black). That is Peter Ross's secret. He never uses a wire brush or soaks in vinegar and his products are smooth and without scale. The problem is that to get good enough at forging for Peter's system to work, one has to become very proficient at making each item. That usually takes making several of the same item and improving each time. If you don't get proficient at making an item so that it can be made in a few heats, then you wire brush and soak overnight in vinegar.

[Hofi]

The very importent thing is to properly maitain the heating of the steel . I heat the steel in a system that I call '' progressive entery '' always I heat 3-4 pieces of the steel in the fire . one on tope of the fire the second a bit in the fire the theird deeper and so on.
the air is very miled and in this way in the procces of forging I allways heet all the pieces together gradualy and i gain sevaral advanteges of the system.
1 save lots of fule
2 very little scale
3 no steel is burent
4 allways I have hot steel ready to forge
5 forge more formes in a given time
6 the steel is heated all the way into the center and eaven heat
before forging I brush very shortly and then forge. then I forge on clean steel.
after finishing the forging I deep the piece for a very short instent (a friction of a second) in water and brash again. the deeping in the water makes the residue scale to shrink and ''fall '' off on the final brush . it gives the steel and the forme a very clean and shiny look.
Hofi

[Charlotte]

Thank you Mr Hofi! I know understand something that I've seen in a few professional demonstrations but failed to think seriously about. Many demonstrators produce clean pieces with seemingly little effort while I often struggle.