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I Forge Iron

spanish colonial spearpoints


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Thanks for the pics.

The first thing that strikes me is how short and sharply tapered the tangs are on the two points at top. It makes me wonder how they were mounted to the shaft and how solid the connection was. Of course they could've just been socketed and expected to come out once stuck in something like a boar. That way the user could insert another point on the shaft and stick it or something else again.

Any ideas?

Frosty

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Thanks for the pics.

The first thing that strikes me is how short and sharply tapered the tangs are on the two points at top. It makes me wonder how they were mounted to the shaft and how solid the connection was. Of course they could've just been socketed and expected to come out once stuck in something like a boar. That way the user could insert another point on the shaft and stick it or something else again.

Any ideas?

Frosty


i figure they went into a socketed handle ... one was pinned in place (hole where pin went) and probably worked fine for mounted use (they are light enough to be more a lance head than boarspear)they might have had a little longer tangs also they are real rusted...no shaft to look at tho so no way to tell..I wonder why all of them have a ball section behind the blade but before the socket.it looks good maybee it helps the balance or has some significance. theyres my ideas... have fun
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exellent work there, dab,what you use, mild?,keep it up, jimmy


na used a old chizel (real rusty one) was about 7/8 octagon... forged it out but havnt tried to harden it fogure its is better off soft that way if it ever ends up stuck in a tree it will bend before it breaks...but cause its a high carbon it is a little tougher...
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  • 2 weeks later...

that is a useable spear.The only thing i would change is the transision between blade and socket . I would forge that section on the blade edge sides by doing this it will upset the section there makeing it thicker in the other plane ..when it is close to square there then round it up by the normal method (octagon to round ) it will give you a little thicker stem for the spear ( probably not critical 1/4 thick spring steel is pretty tough).good luck! btw dont go after them bears with a spear.. ide hate ta find out ya got et..

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Yep,i planned that transition poorly.The spring was 3" by 3/8" thick,and i was hoping that it would upset into more than it ended up doing.Welding the spring with all the Cr is not much fun,but next time will have to fold it and weld it up.
So,you've isolated that part in the middle with a gillotine,good for you,worked well.Great when things work the way you mean for them to!
And no,i don't go after the critters manually,some younger guys are into that.I do a bit of work locally,mostly in trade for the meat.Spear hunting is not done much here anymore,the gun is too efficient.I should have a photo of an old one,forged in Siberia,that was used around here.If i can find it...It's surprising how small it is,the blade not much over 6".

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