where can i get a cheap anvil in southwestern CT? i am a new smith and think i may want to invest in a stump or stake type anvil. i would like to know were i can get one of theese for cheap. if anyone would mind telling me it would be awesome.

Im still a newbie and on a quest to find an anvil too. At the moment I am using a small block of mild steel, and the head of a big lump hammer as an anvil. (the lump hammer is good because it has rounded edges for drawing and starting scrolls etc, and the steel block is good for flat finishing and it has crisp edges)

My point is that while you are looking for a propper anvil just get some metal hot and find something to pound it on!

Im still a newbie and on a quest to find an anvil too. At the moment I am using a small block of mild steel, and the head of a big lump hammer as an anvil. (the lump hammer is good because it has rounded edges for drawing and starting scrolls etc, and the steel block is good for flat finishing and it has crisp edges)

My point is that while you are looking for a propper anvil just get some metal hot and find something to pound it on!

I agree with Bob. The first anvil I used 10 years ago was a die from a tool making operation. It's heavey, it has a flat surface and it's hardened. I still have it and my son's using now. I suspect that thing'll outlast most anvils on the market.

I've found a few good anvils at farm auctions and I run across one now and then at antique shops. The ones at the auctions around here can run in price from crazy cheap to out-right over-priced. Trick is, keep your eyes open:othey turn up in odd places sometimes.

thanks. i think that a 50-60lb block of mild steel will work, conveintly i have a scrap yard nearby, but i have a plate for an anvil, but it has no rebound and it is to large square but it is not thick enough, thanks for the ideas!

is mild steel hard enough for using as an anvil? do i need higher carbon?

High carbon is better; mild steel will work.

As a source for a medium carbon steel hunk of metal look into getting a damaged fork lift tine---one they can't/won't re-sell for use can make a fine starter anvil.

MKArmory Makers of Rapiers, Swords, Daggers, and Longswords and look for "that anvil story" link near the bottom of the page for a good example of a 120 pound anvil that cost them $25 to make

Do you have Harbor Freight in your area?

It's very mild steel, but will work to fool around on.

Harbor Freight stopped selling their steel anvils from Rusia quite some time ago and now only sell the cast iron chinese anvils---NOT STEEL AT ALL! NOT ANVIL---ASO ONLY!

A piece of scrap A36 makes a better and cheaper anvil than a cast iron ASO!

My first anvil was a piece of railroad rail.
Harder to come by now than 30 years ago but if you make friends with the scrap dealers you can often come up with one or something similar.

Chunks off of heavy equipment and forged pins strongly tied down work even better than railroad rail.

My back up anvil is cut from 4" mild plate. Works great! Used to be my main anvil 'til I got my Trenton. Neat thing about mild; if you ding it, zap it with the welder and grind it flush and its like new ;)

the head of a big lump hammer as an anvil.

Just thought I would add that I have since been strongly advised against this due to the potential for chips flying off the hammer and causing injury.

ok so mild steel plate it is. now to scrounge up the funds.

actually a rr track i found with a u shaped plate welded on and a pritchell hole to boot! i found it on the side of a track!

and last week i got a nice fisher norris. 115 lb for $150. thanks for the posts.

Hi, I was just wondering if you tried Craigslist.org You might find something there within driving distance. I picked up an anvil last night. A 450# monster. I used an engine hoist to get it off my pickup. I don't know what the name is on it yet, as it has a lot of paint on it. I'm gonna get that off and see what it is. Hopefully at least. Either way, it has a nice ring to it when hit with a hammer. I'm a newbie, and that was what I was told to listen for. I know where there are 3 more anvils in my area, and I'm gonna go look at them over the weekend. One is supposed to be a Hay Budden 140#, and i'm not sure of the other two. I'll check them out as soon as I can and I'll post whatever I find out. Lew

actually i was trying that but, i was looking for leaf springs at an auto repair shop. i was looking for some scrap axles to make an anvil from and i found an anvil! don't go ebay beacause you can get screwed pretty bad. i think local works best. although no good anvils in my area. just some messed up vulcans and a 35lb farriers anvil. thanks for the idea. try rubbing some chalk on it or some flour. i heard that works for geting out images.

It's a bit more complex than that "Anvils that should ring, should ring. Anvils that shouldn't ring, shouldn't ring."

 

Some good quality anvils, Fishers, don't ring.  Wrought iron with steel faces and cast *steel* anvils should ring; especially the late 19th century early 20th century American anvils with the more elongated horn and heel.  If they do not ring it can be a sign of a major hidden (or not so hidden) flaw like a crack in the body or delamination.

 

Also if an anvil is secured to a base it may kill the ring---and this is a very smart thing to do when you own a ringing anvil; it's nice to be able to hear in your not so later years!  (Grandkid 7 on the way and I'll be able to talk with him because I protected my hearing!)

To bad your not closer to the Midwest ..I'am sell four anvil ..will be putting them on ebay soon. need to clean my shop area and get some room

The dude is banned and thread is 5 years old