Iron Falcon 72 Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I'm working on a guillotine tool similar to Frosty's shown in this thread:http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/f7/smithin-magician-9914/ I'd originally planned to weld the hardy shank to the right end of the plate as shown in the photo below. I'm having second thoughts about that plan. It seems that this might let the tool move around or bounce on the anvil. The dies will be positioned over the edge of the anvil in the middle. Do y'all think my concern might be valid? How do y'all keep the tool stationary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I think mine probably moves around when I use it but it doesn't bother me. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I tap and thread my hardy hole pegs for things that I don't want moving around too much. I place a bit of half round with a hole in it for my washer under the anvil - this grabs a bit better than a flat washer. I have shown my anvil saddle that I use for split work as that was my only photo showing the threaded peg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted March 27, 2009 Author Share Posted March 27, 2009 Mark, I like that idea. I'm using heavy-walled 1" square tubing for my hardy shank. It ends up nearly crimped together on the bottom end so it would be fairly simple to drill it out and thread some allthread in or weld a bolt on the bottom. BTW, what is that tool used for? some type of fuller? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Mark, I like that idea. I'm using heavy-walled 1" square tubing for my hardy shank. It ends up nearly crimped together on the bottom end so it would be fairly simple to drill it out and thread some allthread in or weld a bolt on the bottom. BTW, what is that tool used for? some type of fuller? Thanks The fuller is a part that can be switched out. The tool itself is an anvil saddle. It is used to forge those things that rest very close to something else - for example the tines on your BBQ fork. The 'spare' leg fits under the saddle allowing you to work on the other leg. The spring fuller is something that I use when I am splitting stock to form a branch and I want to put some leaves on the branch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted March 27, 2009 Author Share Posted March 27, 2009 I hadn't noticed that the spring fuller isn't attached to the anvil saddle. Duh.. So, your picture actually shows two tools that don't necessarily have anything to do with each other. The spring fuller could go in the hardy by itself. The saddle looks to be 3/8" plate or channel. So it becomes a mini-anvil but has the capacity to hold various hardies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 I hadn't noticed that the spring fuller isn't attached to the anvil saddle. Duh.. So, your picture actually shows two tools that don't necessarily have anything to do with each other. The spring fuller could go in the hardy by itself. The saddle looks to be 3/8" plate or channel. So it becomes a mini-anvil but has the capacity to hold various hardies. That's correct The spring fuller is used to fuller something that has two (or more) prongs to it and therefore needs to be used with the anvil saddle for clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted March 28, 2009 Author Share Posted March 28, 2009 Is the anvil saddle 3/8" channel or does it need to be 1/2"? It appears that you've tapered the edge of the anvil presumably to use with tighter constructions. Thanks for your excellent help as usual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Is the anvil saddle 3/8" channel or does it need to be 1/2"? It appears that you've tapered the edge of the anvil presumably to use with tighter constructions. Thanks for your excellent help as usual. Mine is 1/2-inch thick. The edge does taper from about 1/8 diameter at the edge back at about a 45 degree angle. If I were to make another, I would have the leading edge stand out from the side of the anvil by 1/2-inch plus for those times when I just don't have enough clearance from the edge of the anvil. Attached photo is the type of thing I do at the saddle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted March 29, 2009 Author Share Posted March 29, 2009 I see why you'd need the overhang. With that many parts pointing every which way at least one of them wouldn't fit under the saddle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Aspery Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 Here some split work has been fullered (using the spring fuller on the anvil saddle) to isolate material to forge a leaf from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeatGuy Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I tap and thread my hardy hole pegs for things that I don't want moving around too much. I place a bit of half round with a hole in it for my washer under the anvil - this grabs a bit better than a flat washer. I have shown my anvil saddle that I use for split work as that was my only photo showing the threaded peg. Mark I use a longer peg with a slot for a wedge to secure my hardies. Iused to use the screw method but found the wedge just as secure and much faster. brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) I'm trying to figure out if there's a way to do away with the front portion of the bottom die holder (bdh) so the die will be almost completely open and still at the edge of the anvil. Perhaps make the bdh like a squared-off C with the opening of the C pointed to the front. Then make the bottom die's support sightly longer than the die surface to allow it to fit into the curves of the C. Or weld nuts to the back of the bdh, drill hole in the die and bolt them in. Assuming that have the area in front of the bottom die is important! I've attached a couple of photos showing what I mean. Are either of these sensible approaches or unnecessary complications? I do tend to over-engineer. Edited April 8, 2009 by Iron Falcon 72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 9, 2009 Share Posted April 9, 2009 An interesting idea and problem. Holding the bottom die tightly and accurately is really important so putting it right at the edge or even really close might be problematical. Right off the top of my head I'm thinking angle iron might be the answer. It'd allow the bottom die to be slipped into a receiver from the front with minimum junk to get in the way. A simple locking screw or maybe just a pin or wedge could secure it. Of course the problem is angle iron is generally mild steel, even ship and car shapes are medium C. Then again it wouldn't be terribly difficult to weld up an appropriate angle. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted April 24, 2009 Author Share Posted April 24, 2009 Here's where I am now. I got some 2x3 3/8" angle that will align with the edge of the anvil for the bottom die. Here are some photos. The angle will line up at the edge and center of the anvil. The die will be held side-to-side by a couple of pieces of 3/8". It will be held down vertically by some 1/2" scrap that will be trimmed off. The nut at the end will keep it from moving in and out. I'll put a bolt down through the nut into a hole drilled in the base plate. I considered drilling the hole through the die but I didn't have a way to be precise enough. The nut can be moved to align with the hole rather than trying to drill the hole precisely through the die. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 I like it. Can't wait to hear how it works. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DClaville Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 that is a good idea on how to make one they can be made in all kinds of different shapes and for different wide of multi usage a blue print is iin the works for this Atm but here is a post on how I made mine.Guillotine tool "how to" - British Blades and here is a vid of the first try among the first fire of my gas forge. it has square dies in it at that time. DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Francis Trez Cole Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 (edited) the british one is great brain trust meeting in a pub. I am working on one like the blacksmith magican but larger. As I work on it I will post pictures. One of the important things in using a Guillotine is to keep the work piece level and square to the tool. Edited April 24, 2009 by Francis Cole more info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iron Falcon 72 Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 The raw bottom dies are finished. (pic 1 & 2) They were made with 2x3x3/8 angle iron. Each has a tab welded on to register with the holddown bolts. The bottom die holder is also finished. (picture 5) Picture 3 is the bottom die holder before I welded on the cover plate. Given the two holddown bolts I probably don't need the cover plate but it may help keep scale out. Then again it may trap scale. So it may get removed. We'll see. Picture 4 shows the whole contraption on the anvil. Its centerline lines up with the anvils centerline. The support for the top die (pic 6) will be located approximately where the extra bottom die is sitting at a 45 from the bottom die holder. There will be a little over 3" horizontally before a forge piece will hit the upper support arm. The support arm will be made of 2x3x1/8 thick box tube. The upper dies will be based on 2x3/8 flat plate. I might have had this done a lttle sooner if I did more doing instead of so much thinking but the plan is to have it finished in 2 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 Looking good. I'm looking forward to hearing how it works. Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abenakis Posted July 9, 2009 Share Posted July 9, 2009 Hi This is a mix between Frosty's design and BP0065. I added a spring to get the top die at a height just over the bar I work on. The spring can be put in 3 positions for different stock size. With the spring fully compressed, the top die hit the bottom one. To make it work properly, I had to put grease in the guides because the spring is rocking the top die front / rear. With this design, I can put dies much larger than the width of the guides, like in BP0065. Comments are welcome! Abenakis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don A Posted July 10, 2009 Share Posted July 10, 2009 I like it. The proof is in the performance. Keep us informed on the pros and cons as you begin to work with it. I am about ready to build something like this, so I am very interested in what you are doing. Thanks for sharing. Don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lumpkins Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 I am goin to attempt to make one today, If I'm able to get it done and it turns out ok, I'll post picture's on here, if it don't turn out.. Well there won't be any picture's..lol.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Lumpkins Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) I got the Guillotine built this past weekend, now I just need to make the Die's. It ain't pretty but I think it'll do the job Edited July 27, 2009 by WagonMaster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.