Phil Patrick

around the rosie

My wife makes soaps and such things as a hobby. She made me some balm from petroleum jelly, beeswax and lemon oil. That stuff works great!

HOLY SMOKES!! Valentin,, what on Earth do you plan on attacking with that thing?! An elephant? Neat design, I love how the twist flows into the blade section,, keep up with the pictures,, I want to see how this turns out. Thanks

pumpkin chunkin!!!!!

This is good. I am preparing to refit my chimney system on my big forge. So, 1) I plan on using a "hood" style of chimney. I plan to suspend it above the forge at about 3 feet. 2)I plan on using a 8" diameter chimney pipe up 3 feet, 90 degree turn, then out of the shop wall, turn up 90 degrees, straight up. Also, I plan on using a chimney cap to keep rain out. The questions are this. Will the hood and distance of it from my forge promote enough draw? Will the two 90 degree turns in the flue pipe cause me trouble? I think not but... Would my efforts be better spent on a side draft system? My chimney in my old shop was a pretty sketchy affair at best. The biggest mistake I had made on it was using too small of pipe. Let's see where this goes.

SPAM....Shaped Protein Approximating Man i know I posted it once before,, don't care,, still funny to me.

check......

I would save up your dough and scoop up a higher quality anvil later. Don't throw more money after the china freight anvil. Watch the usual places, farm auctions, etc. You could also post here in the tailgating section for one. I keep trying to convince the Chief Finance Officer (my wife) that new anvils are a great deal because that they are cheaper than steak on the pound. She is not seeing the vision yet. In the meanwhile, keep plugging away on what you have, dress it as you need.

Sword fish,, on the grill

We still have machines in the field using PDP to drive the machine. It is always fun when they xxxx out. It is always fun when we install equipment into a shop where you have people that have never been in front of computers in their life. To answer the poll, I am a 2ish to high 3ish. I had to learn computers quickly when I transfered departments. My AutoCad training was "here is it is, go to it" I ended up in CAD training a year after I started. Sink or swim!

I know they use dry ice in the printing industry. They clean engraved rollers with it. It won't mar the delicate surface of the roller. Phil

People!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

SPAM,_____ Shaped Protein Approximating Man

I have repaired alot of gears on old machines that needed dental work. I dont know how big the gear or the tooth is, but, on bigger teeth, I have drilled and popped steel pins into the broken area, then filled up with brazing material. You have to take your time, both building up then the final fit of the tooth. A trick you can use is once you are pretty much done, cover the new tooth in dykem or machinist blue, install it in the lathe and SLOWLY BY HAND, run it over a bunch of times. Try to "feel" for binding as the new tooth meshes. Take the gear back out and inspect the dyed area. If you have a big high spot somewhere on it, the dykem will wear of quicker there. Then adjust as you see fit. Good Luck Phil

You could fix the broken spring and build a new Lincoln around them. Or, you could make punches, drifts, swadges, if you wanted to. I have made a few pretty sturdy knives out of spring stock. I like the car idea the best though.

I would suspect that it would run a high risk of coming apart upon impact. I wonder if you could cast each pour in such a way that the next layer would pour into some feature, locking it together. I've attached a pretty crude drawing to show. Let me know how it turns out. hammer.pdf

Donner Party

John Candy

It would be pretty good at opening walnuts and clams.

Sigourney Weaver

Well, If you have a model in mind to follow, perhaps you could weld smaller stock together to achieve the rough final size and shape. Then, forge the final shape to it. Good luck drifting a hole into a block like that! I agree,, it would be really cool to have. I think I would put it on my desk at work, hang a tag on it that says "COMPLAINT DEPARTMENT". Phil

I'll bet getting the tooth out of the mammoth is pretty tricky, they tend to get irritated. Very nice piece. How do you work with the tooth material? Just like wood or is there some special technique?

Over Christmas I brazed a piece on an old printing press for my father. I cleaned up the piece to remove 100+ years of grease, and grime, etc. Ground my notches, fixtured it up and proceeded to full steam ahead. Long story short, I hit a hidden pocket of evil goo of some sort. When it burned, the resulting fumes got me in the face. After some gagging and coughing, (and losing the ability to do math do to my brain melting), I finished up the job. The lesson, when you think it is clean,, check again, there might be a booby trap hiding in it. In this case, it was in a hole for lubricating a pivot point. Yours,, minus some brain cell but VERY lucky, Phil

Just a quick reply, Check the height of your anvil. The rule of thumb is to have your knuckles (as you would hold the hammer) barely brushing it as you stand beside it. If it is obscenely high or low, it might be throwing your whole geometry off as you stand and work. Also, make sure you are not using the death grip on your hammer. You should be able to control it with out strangling it. You could be right as well, different people can swing different weights of hammers.

I was working at one of our customers shops about two years ago. Pretty small shop, specialized in stainless and aluminum sheet metal fab. All high end cosmetic work. That was the weld test for that end of their shop. You would show up, they would hand you pop can cut in half and point you in the direction of one of their TIG welders and wait. As a result, their weld shop was one of the best. I saw a bar top they made for a pub made of copper. Two 90 degree turns in it, absolutely perfect.