Apple Duck

George N.M., Thank you for that. I'll keep it in mind.

Thanks alot, all of you. In my post I indicated 3/8. I meant 3/16- - my dislexia strikes again. Lary good idea on that. Arkie, yes, I too really enjoy Engells. I have watched them when they "tire" some pretty big wagon wheels with steel As for you Latticino, in terms of sheer xxxxxxxxx, yes that is really nice. I may have to give it a go when I strap a leg vise to a post.

Frosty E. Wenatchee? my good friend C. Frisk (rip) was from there and talked about it often. Stop a locomotive? Grease? 30 W?, maybe.....

Frosty, I too need to repair a couple of handles, axes, hammers, etc. Today I was looking for some Hickory stock and noticed that there are blanks of hickory on-sale now through a vendor who's name rhymes with w***w******'s horse. 12 inch for $4.50. I hope this post of mine doesnt violate a rule, Mr Moderator. If it does please delete with my apologies. Today was shop cleanup too.

Thanks guys, I can always count on your excellent input. For what it's worth, Im glad for the clarification on the 400f temp limit. I did read it, but in reality would have likely just swagged it and overheated it just as you predict. One more thing, Frosty- so are you saying I should go thinner on my material?

Hello everyone, I am looking for ideas on how to configure a steel hoop around a stump. Said hoop is made/formed of 3/8 X 1.5 inch mild steel. The obvious (to me) is to weld a large nut on one end, a fixed loop to the other end and use a bolt passed through the eye into the nut to cinch it down. I'm not sure if I like the method described above, and would like input from someone on alternative means. It seems I have seen similar situations where a cam lock device was used to take up slack and tighten the band, but I can't seem to find one pre-made where I could just weld it on. Any Ideas?

I like your eagle. Just an off the cuff comment/suggestion for you. How about that dry silicone spray. Might do what you want without altering the rusty finish too bad, but you may also have a durability issue where it may require re-spraying periodically.

8 year old me: be good to little girls, they become big girls! 18 year old me: identify and listen to mentors who want to help. Save money for the long haul. 22 year old me: dont marry HER! 30 year old me: watch your waistline, stay in shape 40 year old me: to old to know better, young enough not to give a xxxx. 50 and up: there's no time like the present!--Wishing I could go back and smack my earlier versions up side the head- - -

OK I'm gonna ask it. What in the world is this thing? I have a couple of ideas, but would like to know what it is/intended use. I have no interest in ripping off your idea or design, and if I did there are things you can do to protect it and yourself. Perhaps if you indicated what it is, the guys on this forum as I have found out, will go through xxxx and high water to assist someone in a problem solving situation. by telling us what it is, we can easily make more informed and accurate recommendations. I'm thinking about putting you in touch with someone that I have in Europe that might be able to help, but first thing he is going to ask is, what is it? How large is it, What are the expected wear properties of certain components, can it be made in two pieces, three, etc, etc..

I'm a vet; did my time - USAF 461X0; Cold war era post 'nam; but have been to Nambe'. If not for jackass supervisors might have stayed in for a career but, no........ Ended up in a better spot anyway. Grandad was mounted Calvary WWI. Dad WWII, France, Normandy, Rhine, tip of the spear. Several siblings also served. A couple of nieces and nephews too. Proud of them all. I am ashamed of knowing a few vets who are milking the VA system, while others I know of desperately need help but are too proud/badass to game it. My two centavos. Oh yeah, I like squishing Fe.

The ionization explanation sounds plausible, but I'm not wholly convinced. I know that I can smell different types of steel for example my Dad's rifle has a unique smell as opposed to newer black guns I've sniffed. and its not the oil or gun cleaning stuff. I notice that when I smell a metal, the 'smell' penetrates into my brain differently than another substance, that is off gassing or emitting fumes. Make sense, yeah me neither. As far as taste goes, I can sure tell the difference between a SS spoon and an old silver one. Aluminum wow that is more of sensation AND smell. If you ever as a kid were tricked into licking the top of a 9v battery, that is how metals taste/smell times 10. --which makes me believe the ionization concept. While fishing, or other activities, I have unintentionally tasted Lead, which is kind of sweet. Heck the ancient people used to go crazy because their goblets were made of or contained lead, some of the roman records though incline that lead imparted a preferable taste to their beverages. I know animals can smell steel.

Now that is one weird looking compressor! JK JK JK, but seriously, is it working? Reason I ask is that some of the trucks I have driven with the see through housings- - -when the filter is new the housing wont fill up completely. As fuel is run through the filter and it gets dirty and clogged, then the fuel level rises and fills the reservoir up all the way. We used this as a visual indicator as to the filters status until it came time to change it. Just an idea, otherwise I don't know what in the heck is wrong with that compressor.

Amen to that!

haha, now I do believe that!! I hear you Frosty, and won't take it personal, as I do pay attention to the warnings. - I would rather get set straight from the start. This forum is the first and only forum that I have ever enrolled in, and have to admit the first admonishment kinda bummed me out, but hey, it's gotta be for the greater good, and I just need to be more careful and less ignorant.

That thing is hopeless. By the way, what do you want for it? HAHA Does the pump require priming? Are the seals if any in good condition. Pretty sure you can get an auxiliary pump from supply house and run it (low voltage) independently if the original setup keeps giving you problems.

ATTABOY! someone was out in their shop! very nice by the way

Howdy TEX! Hey I read it! I SWEAR I did. I still get in trouble

Probably doesn't want to string them along!

Hey there buddy. Top notch advice from Frosty, heed it. In my life experience(s), whether it be guns, knives, winemaking, woodworking, women, etc. etc., When dealing with raw goods or materials, one should start out with quality. Why? quality is the one thing we all should strive for, and it is extremely difficult to start out with something of low quality - especially when starting out anew as a craftsman, and improving the quality while crafting it into something of value. This is what separates the pros. In other words, if you are going to make a knife, get the extra pennies out, and spend for the appropriate level of quality steel to make the knife. At the end of the day, you wont end up with a piece of garbage, because unfortunately until you become a master craftsman, you slowly chip away at the quality of the material if you don't know exactly what you are doing. -- And yes, I completely get this as well, "well I don't have a lot of money to spend on this and I want to do it on the cheap".... My response to this is, it isn't that much more expensive to spend a little bit to get much more, and we can all go without other extravagances in order to buy good steel to begin a project that you care about. Now if you just want to practice moving metal around, by all means use scrap. A piece of 440 stainless about 18 inches long 2 inches wide 5/32, new material of known composition, can be had for under $50. That will make a good number of blades. If that is still to spendy, check sources like certain online bidding sites where you can buy less of same in a kit form.

Thanks everyone

I would shy away from HF (Chinese) products involving combustible/fuel gasses. Spend a little more, get quality regulators made for the task. I agree with your reluctance in bringing acetylene tanks into your residence if you can. You will find a torch can be a vital piece of equipment when needed for the tasks you described.

Well Frosty, that makes quite a bit of sense to me. It never made sense to me that it was called coolant, because when you think about it, the blade should have plenty of time to cool off by the time the teeth go around the two wheels and back into the kerf to cut again. - - heck this should be true even if one is pushing the upper limits of rate of cut. Also therefore, that is why we don't use actual cutting oil in these types of saws, yes? (cutting oil is too gummy/less viscous) and would allow chips to 'stick' onto the blade fouling drive wheels and other mechanisms) Another thing so what you are saying that per the 3 teeth in contact rule one should lay down flat a bar to cut it as opposed to a vertical downward cut even if it is a relatively thick piece say 1/2 in thick by 4 width, right?

Thanks, there seems to be two schools of thought on using coolant on saws not originally equipped as such. Everyone can agree that a cooler blade lasts longer. Does it cut faster, yes probably. The problem seems to lie in the chips and metal shaving which tend to 'stick' to the blade which results in the problem you describe. For my uses I believe I am looking for a saw that runs dry. The key is to go slow and use quality blades. I am not in a production shop so that is ok.

So I am in the market for a relatively small metal cutting bandsaw for the shop. I've about had it with my abrasive chop saw. I have a circular steel saw but the chips. The el cheap-o harbor freight one for about 300 bucks seems ok, but not large enough for certain things and it does dry cuts only. What do you guys think about this> I dont really want to spend over 700.