Leather Bill

i think that is part of a lightning rod system elmo.

For occasional small jobs,a B tank and acetylene tip is quick and cost effective. Some claim you shouldnt bonce back and forth but never explain why so I've done it for years.

Giant cluster is right,a point I attempted to make earlier but I see it didn't gel. Just any old flash arrester isn't suitable for propane. It must say''FUEL'' on it w'hich means all fuels. If it says ''acetylene'' that is the ONLY gas it's rated for. There is no such thing as propane welding tips but heating tips that look like acetylene welding tips( but have recess same as cutting tips) are available and are exellent for brazing and pinpoint spot heating. Scarace but can be found. Another system look's similar to rosebud and has interchangable heads. AFIK neither is offered by OEM mgrs but can be had for most brands. Another system replaces handle with an air/propane handle. Now you know why so many folks braze and heat with cutting torches.

''Weird and not the kind of work I generally do is reason enough to pass on the job. Add the suspecon i don't believe the wood is anywhere near old as they claim,why worry with it? Collect your money upfront.

I'm late to the party but it shouldn't matter in the event you like my suggestion with regard to "aesthetics, at the request of my grandparents (whose property it is " People who live on small acreage estates often want large animals and must satisfy their HOA with animal shelters. A very popular feature added to shed roof is a short roof overhang/bill/cover on high point of shed. Imagine a short sloping roof( 2'-3' ) cantilevered off the high end of your shed roof. It improve's appearance plus break's wind lift.

The tip sizes I talked about are propane. 000=1/8,00=1/4,0=3/8&1/2,1=3/4,2=1& 11/2. As for what people say about propane requiring larger tip than acetylene to cut same thickness metal,that's mostly in perpetuating the notion acetylene flame is hotter than propane and/or consume's moetre oxygen. Don't waste time comparing and trying to figure it out,the tips are not interchangiable anyhow and each have their own set of size #s. Half the people that give up on propane after one try used acetylene tips,the other half didn't know correct way to use right equipment and had noone to show them. What you need to know is (A) the Medalist kit is probably available for either gas. Propane is more expensive because of T hose and come's with propane tip. I expect the acetylene version can be found on sale and difference will more than buy T hose and propane tip. (B) Get opinions from those you trust about tip size for what you are doing. As you can see,a #1 wouldn't suit me at all since most my material is less than 1/2". I would much prefer pushing tip to larger than rated thickness than cutting with oversized tip. If non of what I say helps or makes sense,here's a tip that make's you smarter than the average and might save money while buying used. The holes are recessed on propane tips which makes them easy to identify. Most are two piece but have often been over tightened and swedged parts togeather. Maximum neutral flame temperature of acetylene in oxygen is about 5720 F. Maximum neutral flame temperature of propane in oxygen is about 5112 F. 600F differential when soldering and brazing can mean the difference between failure and success but it's difficult if not impossible to discern 600F at cutting temps.

We feel fine about type RM for use with acetylene but mfgr doesn't reccomend it for alternate fuels. Same specs as type R plus flame resistant. Reasons for using flashback aresstors is long,reasons for not using arrestors is,,,,,,,,there are no reasons not to. By all means consider what TennyLM and others say about cutting tips. I keep a 00 cutting tip in my torch 90% of the time for 16ga through 1/2. If I need finest cut possible on something less than 1/4,I change to 000. Over 1/2 I go with #1. I have the 0,2,3 but they aren't kept on the cart because I do ok with those three and I don't have skill neccessary for 1" and above.

In a fashion this was probably already covered but in case it wasn't. Folks get the feeling they are using excessive oxygen because it requires more tanks of oxygen to burn a tank of propane than it does to burn a tank of acetylene. There's just a heck of alot more propane than acetylene in bottles of same size. All welding processes (where parent metal is melted) require a gas envelope around the puddle. Acetylene provide's it,propane doesn't. Propane rquir's diferent tips but everything else is normqally interchngable. The regulator need not be rated specific for propane,many if not most regulators being used say Acetylene on the housing. That's not to say ANY acetylene regulator will handle propane. Acetylene is NEVER run above 15 psi and propane is often run higher. Some acetylene regulators only go to 15 psi and those that go higher,the guage ALWAYS has a red line from 0 psi to 15 psi even if guage is marked for higher psi. Hose is supposed to be type T but many torches are used daily with type R. If you buy used or borrow a propane rig with type R hose,look carfully for tiny cracks or dry schaling and don't use if present. If you are seeing difference in oxygen use between propane and acetylene cutting I have a suggestion. Hold tip farthar away from work,heat in propane flame is a tad farthar out in flame but that fraction of inch make's a big difference . I've never tried a thermometer but you might be able to penpoint hot spot with one. To find sweet spot,set up a few pieces of same size before begining. Hold pre-heat flame at same distance you were tought/learned with acetylene and time with stopwatch to point where cut can begin. A helper come's in handy. Move to a cold piece and repeat,holding tip a different distance until you find shortest time to preheat. The flame will travel at exactly same inches per minute whether you are using propane or acetylene. That last statment has triggered debate that resulted in having to pick up the bar tab after work that day. Any difference in oxy consumption is more than offset by less money spent on gas. Even if that were not the case,it's worth alot to old guys not having to wrestle big,heavy acetylene bottles because rosebuds and big cutting tips don't play nice with less than the largest acetylene bottles. I use a torch on average once a week,sometimes for less than 10 minutes but I would be lost without it. I'm not an artist but occasionally join dissimilar metals which is something I think artists would like.

I'd like to say something about free pecan wood from orchards. Great firewood but generally should'nt be used for building anything. As T Powers said,it's limbs. Regardless how large a limb is,mills don't process limbs into lumber because the wood move's (twists/wraps) after being sawn. The wood can continue moving (first one way then another) for decades so that make's it worthless for construction or even tool handles. I say this to possibly save disappointment after fashioning something that later warps. An exellent source of wood for short tool handles is the firewood pile providing species is suitable. Keep an eye out for a piece split from trunk that has straight grain. From that piece,split a smaller piece and alow to dry or dry in oven before carving handle. That's how Hickory became popular as tool handles. Much Hickory grain is'nt straight but pieces with straight grain is easy to spot while splitting firewood.

I agree with what you are saying about smaller tools kickingback more frequently than their larger breathern but there's reasons why. For the most part,less weight in tool combined with having less than firm grip and/or only using one hand account's for it. The lesson we might take from that is smaller discs on larger tool is safer. A 3" disc mounted on a 4.5 grinder A. Can't go as deep into kerf where most kickback happens B. Smaller disc equals slower speed at outside cutting edge. C. With screw in side handle operator has better grip and control while cutting or in the event of kickback.

Should we add to the list "never never grind on anything being supported on a farm jack".

Good looking build. If I'm ever able to go back slinging hammers I would like to build one similar. Looking foward to hearing how it performs.

Every time I pick up a grinder with cutting disk my pucker string begin's to quiver so I use them very sparingly. I have three 41/2 grinders,1 with flapper,1 with grinding wheel and 1 with knotted wire. Recently when I needed to open a freon tank,I suited up fit for jousting,then only used the cutting disc to start cuts then finished up with a saber saw. I wouldn't cut with Harbor Freight discs if they were free. My carcass has too many things hurting already.

I suppose it might depend on how drunk I was on the day I set it up but according to what I said the plan is. " For things that are moved around often I like 3 legs" " For an anvil stand that will remain in place I prefer one piece top and bottom like a wood stump(Bois d Arc as mentioned in another thread). " I have anvils that are occasionally moved about or taken to other shops. The behemoth perched on the stump has been moved only a few times since coming to granddad's shop over 100 years ago. Last time was with assistance of an engine crane. To prevent gluing anvil to stump I "Wet mix covered with cling wrap then anvil set in place." I did fail to mention laying thick paper or thin cardboard such as tar paper between anvil and cling wrap is a good idea to prevent excessivly tight grip. As for not making it a permanate arrangement,THIS " Cling wrap will do the same plus make stump and floor much easier to clean should anvil need to be lowered or moved later." I often omit long draw out instructions covering minor details since I'm only trying create food for thought rather than expecting readers to follow my exact footsteps.

For things that are moved around often I like 3 legs but to make it less prone to tip over,3 legs often extend out farthar than 4 causing toes on big feet to be stubbed. For an anvil stand that will remain in place I prefer one piece top and bottom like a wood stump(Bois d Arc as mentioned in another thread). This 4x4 stand is handled the same way. After top and bottom are made parallel,footprint of anvil is inlet into top. Any place where heavy mechines are sold,they offer powder to be mixed with furnished liquid or water as well as resins and epoxies. I normally add 15% by volume Type II Portland to bagged sand-mix concrete then use latex additive in addition to or in place of water. The wet mixture is placed 3/4" deep on WET concrete floor then WET stump bedded into mix. If time alow's,I wait 1 week or longer. If I'm unable to wait at least 1 week,I proceed immediatedly. Top of stump is covered with cling wrap,cling wrap pushed into recess and half filled with concrete mix. Wet mix covered with cling wrap then anvil set in place. Wetting floor and stump avoid's moisture being wicked out of mix resulting in inferior strength and duriability. Cling wrap will do the same plus make stump and floor much easier to clean should anvil need to be lowered or moved later. If going with cling wrap on floor,trim excess and alow squeeze out to set up to help prevent stump being knocked out of place. I always use cling wrap on top to keep it clean and neat.

Back in the day when epa was kicking off,used motor oil was closely monotored and disposal was expensive. A friend had a garage heated by a 2 barrel wood heater. He first dripped used oil into the heater but only created smoke while saving little wood. We tinkered with a hydraulic pump driven by an electric motor that resulted in so much smoke and stench a private school 1/2 mile away called fire marshal to report tires being incenderated. When the deputy showed up he asked if we had gone outside to see the smoke. Someone suggested it might be starving for oxygen so we added a blower. Like Frosty said "there's serious danger issues". In short order the barrels began glowing,self induced draft sounded like a train,flue pipe melted and the shop roof was damaged before oil could be turned off.

I know what you mean Bones. I worked with a gal that pronounced the Gold Medal kind same as most pronounce both but the sweet smelling kind "flyers"and I always got a chuckle. I think highly processed flours have non or less weevils than "organic" flour. Maybe Frosty will shed light on how they compare for sour dough. I'm betting he prefer's organic but I'm courous if he prefer's flour with or without the weevils. Proof all my writings and you are sure to find plenty. One would think double vision would act like spell check but it doesn't.

Bare arms or bear arms???? Walking around in wife beaters (a tank top, tank shirt, muscle shirt) with bare arms usually depends on weather but I for one believe it should be one's right to do it when and if he chose's to. Should bears have arms? By all means,otherwise what's to become of bear hugs? Now if we are talking about arms as in clubs and battle axes,that require's forethought,common sense and mutual aggreement,not to overlook the situation in each individual place and time. As it stand's some neighborhoods have agreed to have open carry so bearing arms is ok,but not ok in beer joints and of course no arms in jail,concealed or open. Then there's situations where it's perfectly ok to wear a 44mag Blackhawk in plain sight but eyebrows will surely be raised if you chose to carry your Morningstar on daily strolls. Getting into the fine points,bearing a body is without question an inalienable right. Where and to whom bodys are bared can land one in jail or earn appluse and tips. Is it any wonder there's so much disaggreement and confusion? In that latter contexed,some defer to what was once said "But now, he that has a purse,let him take it,and likewise his scrip:and he that has no sword,let him sell his garment,and buy one". One of if not the first proponent tied two strings to a blue suede tennis shoe tongue,dropped a slick river rock in it,twiriled it above his head,let fly and "ZAP"made all man equal before Sam Colt was said to have.

Weevils in stored grain products is common. I would like to see weevil infest flower put into vacuum sealed bag to see if they survive vacuum . Point is whether vac sealing would prevent infestation. Having said that,I've eat alot of bread made from flower after weevils had been sifted out.

Yes,much of grain is twisted but spliting a log will reveal sections of straight grain that can be sawn. It make's a super hot fire that has been known to ruin stoves. While burning it pop's and send's up sparks making for an interesting bonefire. In NE Tx where it is common much has gone into fence post and staves. There are barbed wire fence posts and cemetery stave fences more than 150 years old.

Hey arkie,wait til I put shoes on and grab my hat,I'll go with you. I've explored all four corners and I've seen the elephant,all that's left is seeing Frosty's moose before I die.

How many of you have used the wood and how many have access to the tree but never realized what the wood has to offer? I'll talk about it a little in hopes of generating interest amongest those that might be unfamilar but I suggest doing a search. Most blacksmiths around here prefered the stump over other species for anvil stands. Google doesn't tell you that wood is soft while green. I've had sawmills refuse working it until I showed them it's no harder while green than oak. Few documents mention caracter of wood but it can be sanded to a nice finish. IMO it's a natural for knife handles. It will never break nor rot when used as a handle in hammer,hatchet or ax.

Dripping faucets during freezing weather has been parroted so long and often I doubt folks are interested in hearing different but here go's. Maybe there's one or two out there willing to listen reasons why it's not the best solution. To begin with,if the house is on septic,the system slow's dramaticly and can be easily overwhelmed. If house is on public sewer,all those dripping faucets put's a strain on treatment plant,not to mention wasting water that is often in short supply during freezing weather. Turning supply off to house then opening all faucets ,most importantly upstairs and OUTDOORS,can be very effective in preventing busted pipes. There's a chance some faucets will not flow supply is restored next day and temps are still low but those outdoors almost always work and a few indoors so you are not completly without water. Truth is not having pressure in line when water freeze's seldom result's in busted line. This theory can be tested by exposing a pipe with ends open full of water to freezing temps. as freezing water begin's to expand it follow's route of least resistance and you will likly see ice protruding at open end. PVC is at risk of cracking so we will come back to pvc later. Taking another step farther lower's risk of busted pipe. Most hardware stores sell a simple device to test lines for leaks after installation or repair. It screws onto hose threads as found on outdoor spigots and laundry hose connections,a 125psi guage and a valve stem for air pump,compressor or air tank. Install device on cold laundry faucet or higest point available on system. Don't try and blow everything out at once. Put a few pounds of air in and watch guage psi fall as air pushes water out at low point. Continue with small bursts of air until no pressure is maintained. You should be hearing air escaping from highest point when no pressure can be held. Close high point and continue/repeat. You are good to go on vacation or rest easy your Deer Valley cabin will be fine in your absence. Leaving washer disconnected or a temporary wye make's it simple to do when it must be done a few times before storm is passed. If anyone's capiable of doing a little plumbing and intrested in setting the house up to where the family can do this in your absence and have access to water in water heater,let me know. I did it for mom and she used it til she was 93.

Thank you Mike. I learned more from reading that than I have from hours of reading through hundreds of threads finding bits here and there. I just sent your post to the printer. I would love to see someone talk about forced air or as Frosty call's them "gun" burner to explain why it doesm't rush flame through and out of chamber leaving little heat in stock. As an aside,do you see ribbons or other approaches soon making present tube burner design obsolete? When you prefect your present burner built around hand torch nozzle,do you think it has poential of using multiple to replace single tube burner in small forge? Frosty here's something I'm sure has concerned you but I haven't heard any ideas on why it happens. The solution is usually change in mig tip size. I have noticed burners of same desighn often act different when time come's to tune. Is it possible that texture/imprefections or what we might call inside surface of body pipe,reducer,nozzle ect might accont for some of the inconsistancy? An automobile brake wheel cylinder hone could make short work of cleaning inside pipe. I need to stop before I cause us to case rabbits.

Temps continue to rise and a few people are getting power back on. Look's like it will be in the rearview mirror for some of us but sadly many have property damage,some are still without power and some have lost their lives. On behalf of not only Tx but other areas hit hard,thank ya'll for your prayers and concern.