John B

Baskets also used to hold basting fluids

Exactly the same head shape from this side elevation as a Twybil Whats a Twybil ? It is a tool used for making mortice like joints in hurdlemaking, the axe end cuts the sides of the mortice and the sharp end may be chisel ended to pick out the centre of the to be finished mortice, the endsof the mortice are drilled and this tool remove the centre portion

30 minutes. So little time, and A lot depends on you and your experience I would suggest a very brief introduction, and then into a pass around and look at items session, describe the techniques and show how they are made suggest using modelling clay to try to replicate them either at home or in a inter pack competition , then go back another time to judge them, or give pointers, you will be surprised by the quality of their pieces. I believe in the States your scouts have a metalworkers badge, get them involved for the future. Whatever you do, good luck and enjoy it the first session can be a hair raising experience.

Hi All, follow the link given by Matt, and if you are going to make and weld up the bosh, do the tue too, weld direct to bosh and no sealing problems. We have been using these at Westpoint for many years now, at a fraction of the cost of the bought in ones, just use a piece of 1/2" thick plus plate for the front face of the tue, and it will last years, hole should be approx 3/4" to 7/8" diameter for general work, if you require to heat heavier bars go for 1" to 1&1/8" diameter. Fit a slide valve direct to bosh to control air blast

Using water on hot steel has been a technique used for many years, not particularly when forging, but using when wire brushing to clean up after forging, and also water on the anvil, water on the flatter, and the finish is much improved It is also a handy way to attract attention, water on the anvil, red hot metal and a hefty blow, water evaporates, generates hydrogen and 'mild' explosion results (thats what I've been told as another of the legendary blacksmiths myths fact or fiction.) On the vid what happened to the anvil edge between 9.19. to 9.23 ?

Matter of interest, old water powered scythe making factory at Sheffield Industrial Museums Trust - Kelham Island Museum, Abbeydale Industrial Hamlet, Shepherd Wheel - Abbeydale Hamlet Section

Just pop in for a chat and a look, Spinning would not leave a hole in the centre. Did you anneal your copper first before beating it? And I think your technique may have been wrong, you probably tried to push it too far too quick, against something too solid, (you are stretching the material as opposed to forging it) the backing needs to have some give in it until you achieve the finished dimension, then you can planish against something solid to remove any marks. it also stiffens up the article by work hardening it. What was the blank size you used? Far easier to chat and show, bring a blank along on Saturday and lets have a go, some time about 11?

Hi Cliff, If you haven't got the facility to spin them, you can anneal some copper discs and raise them on a leather sandbag, or into a hemispherical form on a tree stump or swage block, Do they have to be copper? And how are you going to fix them? I ask because it will affect the cutting for the blanks you will need to make these. You could go to Cockington Court and have a word with Rex the blacksmith there, he may be able to help, otherwise see Blacksmiths Guild Home and pop up to Westpoint and see me there on one of the courses dates shown, and I can explain and show you a couple of ways to do them.

It is what it says it is, a list of blacksmiths based in Ireland,(in this section) The Worshipful Company of Blacksmiths will not guarantee the quality of the work of them, and some may not hold WCB qualifications, it is merely a trade directory and at one time (I don't know if this is still relevant) anyone practicing smithing could submit their details to be put on the list. By association it is implied they are competent, but not to what degree. If you wish to know more about the Worshipful Company visit their homepage or contact their Clerk by email link

I would suggest looking at BaseTemplate The Worshipful Company of Blacksmiths, a livery Company who have long been responsible for the standards for blacksmithing in the UK. They were the original standard setters, and still operate a system of awards that can be attained by practicing smiths. There are also a number of colleges in the UK who give accreditation for 'smithing. However sadly anyone can call themselves a Master Blacksmith with little chance of them being challenged on their ability. The original line to Master 'smith was: apprentice (usually indentured to a Master 'smith for five to seven years, payment being made to the 'smith in the early years,) then Journeyman for a number of years, travelling around learning different skills as they went, they usually then set up their own 'smithy and when experienced enough they were recognised as a Master Smith usually by the WCB and they were then allowed to train apprentices etc. One of the spin offs from this was that a 'smith had to be capable and have worked for many years before being officially recognised as a Master of his Craft. Nowadays with modern communication available, skills can be learnt and mastered much quicker, although the manual dexterity can only be achieved by practice and execution over a number of years.

You don't have to perform the CanCan when you use it, 'cos the pedal stroke is less and pedal sits lower to put your foot on. Happy Holiday Nice job.

All the very best wishes for all of you out there particularly the people serving in conflict zones, and the ones on their own Have a Happy Peaceful Christmas time and we hope that it continues throughout the next year May 2009 bring a new dawn of reconciliation for all.

But they do last a lot longer I find

So I'm wasting my time case hardening mild steel dies made for forming balls, acorns, etc ?

What do you want to forge/do in it ? More info needed for a quantified answer please.

A mate was looking in the mirror I have to illuminate various dark spots, he said "I recognise that face from somewhere" I went over and had a look, and said "Course you do you daft beggar, its me"

I have a contact number for someone in the Bristol area who has a portable forge for sale, in good condition, complete with hand cranked blower, and is 'suitcase size'. Suitable for coal or charcoal, could be used with coke, but it has a dry tue iron. The lady who has no longer a use for it is looking for about the same price she paid for it

Were you wearing safety glasses at the time?

Hi Paul, Used to have the forge at the Wheel Craft Centre at Chudleigh some years ago, Its a housing estate now. I'll have a glug for you.

Purchase your handle and use calipers to check sizes when making a drift of similar size to use.

You can also use a swage block to support the heads when drifting them out, they are not as awkward to use as on a leg vice as they are a more convenient height.

Glad to help, the ones shown were all made by students on the course, They all did well thanks to the guidance given by the tutors. Its amazing what can be done with basic tools, hammer, punches and chisels/hot sets, and they look like a proper job with character

Forge a drift up to the same shape and dimensions as the handle or shaft you are wanting to fit. Remember to taper it at both ends to allow entry,and to let it drop through when finished. Slot punch the position with an appropriate sized working end to allow use of the drift you have made. A slot punch with raidii on each end (a shallow/narrow elliptical shape) and sharp cutting edge is best as it allows a smooth transition as sides are stretched with the grain flow of the material when drifting, If a square/rectangular shape slot punch is used,the square edges will form potential cracking points when drifted. Use of a slot punch means you have maximum thickness of metal at each side of the finished hole, making a stronger job. A round punch will make for thinner sides when you drift it. Drift out the hole to the finished size. If it is an adze or pick then the hole should be tapered from large at front to smaller at rear to allow proper use of tool handle. ie it tightens when being swung in use. Hammers, sets, hot cuts should be tapered/drifted from both sides to allow handles to be fitted and wedged properly, You should not need to use adhesives if this is done correctly.

It is a bit of a mind twister, but what you say is about right. If the eye is formed from flat, the outside of the eye ends up concave, So the side which is going to be the inside of the eye has to be forged convex, then as it is rolled the outer edges will rise to bring it parallel. Hope this is not too confusing, ( you could always run a drill through the finished hole to size it to fit and make the sides parallel, it will reduce thickness of material slightly but not noticablyfrom the outside appearance)

Boiling water will remove borax based flux,