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About MadHatter

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    Crescent City, CA

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  1. Drill a hole in the end of a 5 inch length of broomstick, the diameter of your cow magnet, shove it in there, great handle for the magnet! Keeps your hand away from the heat.
  2. OTOH, I have a project that demands I stay focused on it till 2nd week of October, so no sweat off my back if this doesn't get off the ground till then... :rolleyes: After that, I'M IN!!! chad
  3. Can't wait to get started! Making a knife (or a few...) has been on my list and getting closer to the top, so the timing here is terrific! Thanks Rich and Steve. Will this be specific times? When will it start? (Mike, pass the gum!) Thanks chad
  4. Anybody know what kind of steel RotoTiller Tines are made of? A friend gave me one to play with for beginning knifemaking practice, and I'm wondering about how to heat treat it. Is it just high carbon, or some fancier kind of tool steel? chad
  5. John, Just checked out Wayne Coe's website. Learned a few things. Thanks for the heads up. chad
  6. I'm looking for a vairable speed motor or control for my belt sander, but I only have 1PH in my shop. John, I looked at that KB website, and didn't see any 1PH stuff. (Never worked w any 3 PH stuff, so maybe I'm missing something)... Looks like these things are designed to convert 1 PH input to 3 PH output. All I need is variable speed control for a 1 PH motor. Or should I be looking for a 3 PH motor teamed up with the KB control...? chad
  7. ThomasPowers, thanks from me too for the link to the Gunter article. Concise, good info. Much appreciated. Thanks chad
  8. What the magnet does is convert the thin flexible heel of the anvil into a much more massive, less moveable mass. An anvil is a tuning fork, basically. Increase the mass of the fork tangs, you lower the ring frequency, or even just deaden the vibrations altogether. My problem is I have yet to find a strong enough magnet that will not fall off when I'm hammering anywhere near the heel end. Heavy chain around the anvil's waist hasn't made that much difference. I have seen a 1/4 inch layer of silicone sheet on top of the anvil stand, under the anvil, work really well. I'm going to try the vise-grip trick I just read a few messages back. Makes sense it would deaden the ring. TTFN chad
  9. Couple years ago I watched a demo by Maria Cristali making a small jewelry box out of what she claimed was wrought iron window weights. Gorgeous material, and beautiful finished product. Keep your eyes peeled, guys and gals. :cool: Chad
  10. Why don't I see ANY pictures? Even the older posts where there are names of pictures to click on, no pictures appear. :confused: chad
  11. John N, thanks for posting the info. I am just in the process of setting up my new (new to me) 50k SayHa, and have been wondering how to minimize the vibration so the neighbors don't have a reason to shut me down. Not quite ready to cut a hole in my slab yet, since I'm going to experiment with shop layout now that I have the Hammer. But at least I have some direction, and will be looking into this Tico S stuff and Fabreeka. BIG help! You answered a lot of questions. Thanks Chad
  12. Read your PM David. You will get a lot out of those DVD's. Chad
  13. Haven't been on here in a long time. I'm the guy with the SayHa that Steve was talking about when he started this thread. (Thanks Steve!) And thanks to everybody who's jumped in here with info. The gasket material in the top of the compressor cylinder - what I can see of it at the edges - looks like some braided stuff, kind of like that fiberglass braid they seal wood burning stove doors with. I'm not about to open up that cylinder till I know what to replace the gasket with... Anyway, some of the bolts (hex head) needed tightening, which I did but without a torque wrench. Haven't had time to really run it since. (Day job :mad: ). Hopefully this weekend. I've put a call in to Bob Alexander, but he hasn't called back yet - might be on a trip. I'll try again next day or two. 781, I'd love to have a copy of your manual, available parts or not. Any way that could happen? David E., I think we have the same hammer. Mine's a Say Ha 50. #58. Early model. BTW all, Tom Clark made a set of 4 DVD's you can get from Bob Alexander called Setup, Maintenance and Operation of the Say Mak 50 and 60 hammers. I have the set, and Tom did us all a great service putting these together during his last year. Highly recommended. Unfortunately, no mention of gasket material for the compressor cylinder. (Might be different for different versions. Tom was constantly improving the thing.) (Be a shame if nobody takes over the business, GREAT hammer!) One last thing. The metal "drip pan" cover over the belt is set at an angle that actually directs any cylinder oil ONTO my belt (at the upper end), - go figure - so I'm in the process of modifying that to make sure that no longer happens. That will probably make a huge difference, leak or no leak. As long as my belt stays dry and doesn't slip, I should be able to get all the power into the ram that the compressor can develop. Gotta run. Thanks again. chad