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I Forge Iron

kerrystagmer

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Everything posted by kerrystagmer

  1. Wouldnt ya know... So the hammer is on its new foundation, I made new wedges for the sow and lower die, wired it up (with a switch!) and got it running..... About 2 mins into it(just as the metal came up to temp) the brushes in the motor finally gave up the ghost. They are spring loaded and very easy to get to/replace IF I can find something like them. BAH!
  2. Hey Grant, I assumed so too, just move it back. When we did it started smacking the top on the inside. Too scary to move it past that point, this thing is a beast. We dont have the dies installed(about 70 lbs each) and we dont have a muffler. Think thats enough to make the tup jump too high or are we out of adjustment somewhere? I only have power here tomorrow so if we can't figure it out it will have to wait a bit. Seeing it rise up right away did feel good!
  3. So... I just watched a youtube of a guy setting up his 2b. Maybe we just didnt try the entire range of the control. Are they clamping forward and hammmer backward? (on hand control)
  4. So the good and the bad. Good is hammer runs! We rented a generator for the weekend to get it up and running and 'installed' the oiler with a very slow motor drive I had laying around. Bad, Hammer seems to be running with the valving backwards or some such thing. Pedal up, hammer down. Pedal down, hammer up. Solutions? We compaired the linkage to other hammers around the net and it SEEMS to be setup the same.
  5. thats very interesting! So I could make large copper/brass billets in a vacuum furnace at 750f if i used a press in the furnace?
  6. Vactra #2 here as well. I have been told is a bad thing to use in the oiler on big air hammers like nazel. Something about compression in the primary. For ways and everything else on mechanicals I'll stick to the way oils. Bar oils in a pinch, they are very similar
  7. Sam, I already moved the drop hammer out of the shop. Beams are up and roof is to follow. I dont think we will be replacing back inside...
  8. I had a 1200 , the anvil was 24,000 lbs... Looks like I'm picking up a 600 with a 12,000 lb anvil. Thinking I'll store it at Sam's house! Thankfully these are so far away from me...
  9. the belt drive wheel is sheet metal and in 2 parts so it can be changed out without pulling the shaft. Everything is bad from sitting in the mud so I'll have to make a new one. Its not too complex.
  10. hum its pretty different. More like a big clutch plate I'lll try to get a decent pic but I dont have a camera here for a couple weeks
  11. The moving parts barely fit into the biggest fly press I had. Build a frame around it and add a hydralic jack, perfect thanks! Tonage? I have access to bottle jacks up to 50 ton. 10 ton maybe? Or am I overthinking that?
  12. Everything from the flywheel forward and down is now completely dissasembled. I was amazed there is simply NO wear on anything. Its like it was rebuilt and left sitting for 40 years (land owner died in 1973). I'll hone and polish, clean the oil ways. New cotter pins , thats it. The upper die has a large pin going up into the hammer to prevent shifting. Other then that no suprises. The main shaft is another issue. As I dont have a large enough press here any ideas the best way to free it up? Can someone post pictures of the internal braking systems on these hammers? I'm not sure this hammer ever had one.
  13. gauss detector... yes I have one, and no I've never powered up my induction machine.. guess I should call you about safety for it Grant, I do have a few questions. reguarding the gas question. I find welding temps are far easier with a blown forge. The bigger your material the more heat you need. A blown system will allow you to push well up into melting temps if you wish.
  14. I actually found a pic of another like this in a google search. I'll post it and pics of this guy now that its here and somewhat apart. I should have the hammer bits cleaned up and working over the weekend, I just need to get the bearings moving again.
  15. So the anvil fits from the front and the holes are to pull the anvil into place. This unit has straps welded to the anvil and they are used to pull it in, I assume to make for clearance around the die rather then the standard setup. There is also a large bolt from the underneath holding the anvil in place. I've seen 50's with an 'A' cast into the frame and 150's with an 'E' cast in. This unit has a 'C' so Im assuming something in between. If I pull it apart what parts count if I'm weighing it? All the moving mass or just what is below the springs? The flat belt drive wheel is damaged and I'll make a new one, this one is pretty worn and the scrap guys werent nice to it.
  16. I hate you guys...... Its a monster task to remove all that xxxx. In the case of my beaudry I could never get it all out.
  17. The lower die is obviously for sharpening jackhammer chisels, the upper is just a plain flat die. Anyone know what the holes in the front are for?
  18. Got a call from a friend who is a scrapper late last night to come see some stuff on its way to the recycler. A large 'C' frame, maybe from a pullmax. I arrive to find the cans had already been emptied but was told I could poke around..... And so I did! As found before I clean it off to see what was still there. Complete and appears to be undammaged with only small bends to the guards. I'll know more when it gets unloaded here.
  19. 3 User(s) are reading this topic 3 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users kerrystagmer,Mike Lambiase,Nakedanvil - Grant Sarver what a bunch we are......
  20. hydralic press is a no brainer! You have the hard part and just need a pump and cylinder!
  21. I have a tiny fisher saw anvil, 80 lb or so. I can take a photo if you would like to see it.
  22. if your getting it at scrapyard prices and have no option then I dont see an issue. If your buying it new then its a waste of money. You would be better off going to a scrapper that would cut you off a chunck of forklift fork or some other hardened object then buying A36 new. If you have no other option it WILL work as an anvil, but every hammer blow to the surface will dent it and you will have to grind it smooth often. If you never miss your work and keep the metal hot it wont be an issue.
  23. Did you have enough 3 phase generated to run it or did you get the generator going? Its great (and inspiring!) to see the hammer come to life. Thanks!
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