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I Forge Iron

Yanni Rockitz

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About Yanni Rockitz

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern Maine, USA
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, vintage tools, axes, Vikings, women, grog and song.

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  1. Wow - I come back a week later and the whole gang has chimed in. ;-) Good info all around! I didn't mean to hijack this thread -- just looking to do the same thing and there's obviously tons of experience here. I'm wondering if my explanation was maybe causing some false alarms... The "roof jack" (flashing boot that holds the stack to the metal roof panel) I originally got is a Dektite #7 "Hi-Temp" unit. They state that the 'boot' part that you cut to size to fit the pipe is made of 'high temp' orange (rubber? ...silicone?), but it's clearly not rated for what I would consider anything close
  2. So what did you end up doing on this forge hood / flu thing? I'm installing one right now and keep going back and forth about whether to go out through the wall then up, or straight up. It's going to be a side-draft super-sucker, either way. I know straight up is the best draft, so I got a "High temp" Dektite #7 red silicone metal roof flashing / boot to put my 12" single-wall pipe straight up through the curvy/wobbly corrugated galvy metal roof panel, but then I realized my roof rafters are too close (24" total, so only like 6" either side) for code and I saw some guy's pics of one of those s
  3. Dooodz - the Turbo Encabulator! HA-HAAAA! Haven't seen that one in years. I mostly agreed with what was stated, with the exception of the values he stated for the logarithmic bypass quotient. Clearly, his calculations failed to account for the encabulatory fibrillation caused by the fluxion generated when chrome plated knippling pins are incorporated into the design. A few tweaks to the inmolation intake settings on your defrundus valve will correct that. ;-)
  4. Reaper.IWP -- That's a heck of a story. Glad you're ALIVE, brother. ;-) As someone who has used track for an anvil, I'll tell you it works just fine. You probably know this, but the whole buzz about needing to have a hardened face on your anvil is a fairly modern phenomenon -- and kind of a fallacy. Most RR track is about 1085, as I understand it. If you use it right -- i.e., only lay HOT (thus soft, in its hot state) stock on it and only hit the stock with your hardened hammer -- never hit the face of the anvil with the hammer (bouncing lightly is okay) -- then the only thing that 'hits' yo
  5. I think THAT 'green' is the original color! There's significant debate out there about what the original factory color of the Champion blowers was -- no one seems to really know, definitively and all the old catalogs are black and white. My Champ 400 has a very faded-out blueish-green around some of the lettering and in the crevices -- 90% surface rust, but a teeny bit of what looks like this teal-green color in your pics. Can anyone confirm? Is that the ORIGINAL Champion / Lancaster factory color??? I'm asking because I'm going to resto mine back as close to original as possible and really wa
  6. A reasonable price is the lowest price you can find one for in a reasonable amount of time. Online sellers are going to be twice (or more) what you'll find a decent / old, but functional Champion 400 blower for from a blacksmith's event. There are some smithing associations that have annual events where they do tailgate equipment sales for far less $$ than you'll find this stuff selling for online. I looked for the past couple years -- couldn't find anything under $400 -- almost always with issues and missing important pieces -- then I connected with another smith who had one he was willing to
  7. "...and the gentleman threw in a Bufco blower ($25)" -- man -- -- some cats get ALL the canaries. I've been looking for a good hand-crank blower for ages and can't find anything under $300 anywhere near me (southern Maine), though I'm SURE there are plenty around -- they're just never for sale online. I need to get to know more local smiths... 90% of the ones on ebay are "Local pickup only" on the other side of the country and the nicer ones are at least $500. Stoopid supply and demand... Smithin' gear is STEEP these days. Don't even get me going about anvils! One begins to understand why so
  8. How come I can't view any of these photos people have posted -- the links all appear broken -- error 404: File not found -- in Chrome, in Firefox... Anyone know? Do they expire after a while or something? It's like a 9 year old thread, I know, but would love to see everyone's pics!
  9. Good grief -- you guys have a STORE ?!?!? Wish I'd known when I first got going putting together what I needed for my gas forge -- I actually learned most of what ended up being valuable from Mike and Frosty, but somehow I missed the fact that it could all be ordered right here. Anyone have any experience with the longevity of Plistix vs. ITC 100? I got ITC, but I see a lot of people run Plistix. Also -- any consensus on the final layer over the ceramic fiber insulation? I've got Satanite, which I'm planning to apply two 1/4" layers of over rigidized and dried fiber blanket, drying each layer
  10. Awesome — Thanks for the welcomes, fellaz. Looking forward to expanding my skills in the smithy!
  11. I’m a 48 year old married dad in southern Maine. Beginner blacksmith. Always been a fan of good craftsmanship — whether it’s a home brewed beer, a bit of art or music, furniture or anything finely built — particularly musical instruments, tools and weapons. I’ve been fascinated by blacksmithing / bladesmithing in the last couple years and knew I had to do it, so when I found that rusty old farmer’s anvil in an antique shop, I had to have it. Now I’ve got a few different hammers, a bin full of steel to play with, a post vise and I’m almost finished building my new gas forge. I went through a ph
  12. Crazy Ivan -- your diagonal peen hammer is legendary. Looks like Thorin the dwarf should be weilding it in his hall of fire. ;-) Regrettably, Crazy Ivan, Turbo, Metal Mangler, and Quint have not been to the site in a long time.
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