billp

To do the best job you can in what you make or sell. To be knowledgeable in what you sell. To be polite and respectful To show confidence not arrogance there but gaining respect in showing respect. To keep communication open and answer all the customer's questions no matter how many or how foolish. If you don't know the answer to questions research it or find someone who does and respond as soon as you can. All in all the customer is the most important person cause with our them you make no money so do what you need to please them with in your ability and reason. BillP

I think I have seen what your talking about our local chain hardware stores had something that was about 4x8x4 with a round knob at one end and a round slot on the other. Not sure of the cost but did look interesting. Around here most things like that are what I have called flag stones either square or rectangle in shape for the cheap ones. In either case I may go price the pavers and or flag stone and do the math to see which would be cheaper over the solid concrete floor. Them use the few bags of concrete to help lock the stones down either as a base like mortar or over top to fill in like sand. Sounds like a much cheaper plain for me as I already have a number of 12x12 stone from a past project. Thanks for the post you all have really got me thinking now. BillP

OK I'm going to show how really dumb I am an ask what are paver's? I have not ever heard of them unless your talking about the large gravel rock you lay down before paving over it. I'm building a small shop 10 X 12 and was planing on putting in concrete for the floor. My plan is to do it a few dozen bags at a time as money allows, but if paver's maybe a better answer may check into that instead. I'm always looking for a better idea and hoping I can afford it. BillP

Will I know I'm going to need a lot more practice. I finished my last blacksmithing class where welding was one of the skills needed to make the project assigned. We had to fold a 3/8" square stock and then weld it together up to 3 inches long then spared the end to about an 1 inch round to attach with rivets to the rest of the project. Will the only part of my welds that seemed, and a big question on seemed, was the part I had to spread. The other 2 inches split apart while working on it and I had to make 2 of these. The instructor though maybe our fires were to dirty, maybe so but I think it was my technique. We were kind of pressed for time and being just a weekend class it was hard to cover all in any great detail. But to spite that I still learned alot and the instructor was very knowledgeable and experienced, time was just not there to do it all right. I'll just be glad when my smithy is finished and I can get back to working on skills and improve on my welding.

I glad you started this, I have a side draft I built but have only used it outside and it worked great to spite the wind. Now I'm building a smithy and was thinking of building a hood out of the outside body of an old close dryer I tore apart of the sheet metal. Now from all this information posted here I'm starting to think about trying my side draft first. Might use the dryer body to build a second hood mounted to the wall for a portable forge I have, but still in the planing stage. This has been of a great help to me. BillP

Thanks Grant & Big Creek I'll check them out and pick one Thanks again BillP

I just finished my last blacksmithing class at the Memphis Metal Museum and saw my first tredal hammer at work there. After seeing it and being someone who works alone I thought this would be great to have. I took a number of photos of it to see if I can build one like it but it looks a bit compulacated to use just photos alone. So, if anyone has or knows of any plains I could use to help build one and willing to share I would appreciate it. Cause wither I use photos or plains I got to try and build one this think is about as handy as a pocket on a shirt. BillP

Would say both are correct and could be under 1 of 2 reasons for the difference. 1: Could be the straight nail was first used but just not driven in all the way to ease removal. Then as time went by someone trying to always improve added the second head for the over zealous executioner who did not know when to stop. Or 2: Could be the area, as one group could have been a bit more inventive in equipment then others if these were showing up in different places and not all in Rome. This would be my 2 suggestions being an armature historian and student in human behaver, what do you think. BillP

Will I truly believe there is no end on how one man can be cruel to another as I'm sure one form of death can be found to top another. Such is the problem Jesus had and died for.

Hay that looks really great nice job

I too was curious about the weights as I have a bunch of them from an old house build around 1890 I once owned and restored, I'm glad someone asked. I have a wide variety of sizes and weight and use them on occasion as weights to help tie or hold down a tarp. I keep them around for the heck of it kind of like an endangered species as the old houses start to go so do they, and yes they do make great trotline weights. BillP

Just an idea but I wounder what it would look like with a crucifixion spike like FieryFurnace showed us back on Dec. 05 (page 5) in place of the locking pin, kind of like two messages in one. I have thought of making a wood cross but didn't know how to use the spike along with it but now you have given me and idea on how. I just have to wait for this deep freeze to end so I can get my smity built and get back to work. Great job it really looks good thanks for sharing. BillP

That really is a great idea I'll have to try that in April at an event close to home. You made me remember once I did a big event in Missouri portraying an early war battle fought there. There were three guys at this event with Native American hair cuts dress as white traders portraying Cherokee Guard with one leading a chicken around on a rope. I asked my first Sargent and he said they had been going around trying to trade the chicken for other types of food. If they had no luck they would end up eating the chicken. Don't know how it came out but they were the most realistic re-enactors at this event and got my respect. And yes I'll take confederate money any day as it's worth more then the dollar today. Funny how things turn out. BillP

Thanks Peter I'll be sure and do just that thanks again for the great idea. Bill

I understand petere76 that's why I'm not looking to go into this to make big or even small money if I break even it's a plus. As for re-enacting events I'm just doing it for the heck of it something different then what I have been doing. In the past I may have gone as a doctor but may have ended up in artillery, or infantry even tried calvary once but the horse didn't approve. The events I'm looking to doing are local around friends I have known for a while. They may buy a few things but not counting on it. I'm looking at this more as a way of introducing myself as a blacksmith and maybe (big maybe) starting to build a name for myself showing what I can do and maybe build a small business that way making custom items. The same with doing local craft fairs and festivals. As I'm looking to make things that can be used at home as well as in camp such as the fireplace sets like you mentioned, racks for coats or pots, BBQ sets, whatever. I'm even looking into doing something with crosses, bracelets, what-nots and curios. It's my hope as my skill grows maybe being more artistic in what I make. I was a bit artistic as a younger man maybe I can resurrect a bit of that and do it again. All I know is I love what I do and just want to do more and be known as a blacksmith. After being a Teamster then an EMT being know as a blacksmith would make me just as proud if not prouder, knowing I left something behind still being used by someone else how ever long they last. BillP

I like that idea Tetnum but my only problem is I'm still in the learning stage. I know how to make a number of things but I'm kind of slow as I haven't done a lot of them. Which is why trying to figure time verses cost just doesn't work to well for me. I know as time goes by and with repetition I'll get faster, then your suggestion should work very well. So I will most defiantly keep this on file in my memory and use it later on. Thanks I appreciate it. BillP

I apologize for being a bit touchy on this and do appreciate your efforts in trying to help. It's just that this kind of took a left turn I did not intend to take. I guess for now I'll have to be a blacksmith attending a re-enactment. Right now for me to build another forge (this one would make 3) and bellows that I can travel with would be at the end of a long list of other projects I have to complete. The first being to building my first smithy so I don't work outside any more along with inventory to sell. With the Holidays I have not been able to hit a lick at anything having to finished a long list of honey do's so I can concentrate on what I want, a deal with the wife. I do have drawings for 2 bellows and have seen a picture of Tom's forge if it's the one posted on this sight. When time does permit I will take your suggestion and information, even though Sherman is not one of my favorite people, and look into building one of these forges for the future. Again I do apologize and thanks for your help. BillP

OK UnicornForge you have me a bit over a barrel so to speak. My last statement refereed to what I was going to sell so as not to be selling inappropriate things. MY look, clothing, tent, tools, anvil, and such will look period but as for my forge it may not be 100% correct. It is a simple thing just a very thick table with 1 1/2" sides with a hand blower attached. It had regular tube type legs which I took off and kept and replaced with two straight legs front and two wheels made of steel in back. I got it from a friend who thought he wanted to blacksmith but decided no. He got the forge and anvil from a shop that did renaissance type events. I'm told it's an old shop forge and have been encouraged to build a clay fire pot for it as it has no fire pot just a grate over the air hole. I have the clay still debating on the fire pot. Now being Confederate we do kind of get away with using non-military items as we had to make do what what ever we could find or use. So if my forge will pass for civilian but not military Willll it was just pressed into service like so many other things and should go great with my civilian vest, shirt, and trousers but my kepi is military as my jacket. We Tennessee Rebs were poor to say the least but fought mighty hard. Thats why General Forest was so proud of us. As I also said before it takes time and money to be 100% NO ONE starts off 100%. And yes I will be informing the people that it's not period just as close as I can come for now. When I started as a Doctor it took 6 years to be able to afford a class A officers uniform, till then I was a civilian volunteer or a soldier. Now I could tell you a great deal about medicine at the start but it took a number of years to build my medical bottles, equipment, and uniforms to the look I use now in talks and demonstrations at schools and museums as well as re-enactments. As for blacksmithing I feel it will come the same way at lest I have a jump start on things to be able to do as much as I can for now. As for other smiths I have seen I will be more correct then most. In fact the only smith I have seen to be correct was a tall man from Kentucky who I was told lost to cancer. I have even seen 2 using propane forges. But then when put in the class as a Sutler what you sell is more important then your look. I just hope to work past that over time and get past the finger wagers who may or may not be right. BillP

Wow it does seem like I opened a can of worms. Again I hear what you all are saying and please believe me I'm not looking at this with any rose colored glasses. I know money will be limited at best so doing well would be a plus but not a must. As far as my look and what I will be selling at re-enactments it will be as right as I can determine. The infantry unite I belonged to for so very long took great prided in our period look. In fact if you came and looked in our camp and my tent it would be like going back into time. Even the camp conversation was more period then not. This again is not to make a living just to add one more item to what I can portray in the 1860's. I just want to be as correct in my pricing as I am in what I sell. I just never liked fingerer wagers who really made beginners feel bad to spite there efforts to try. It takes time and money to build a truly good and correct impression. Gentle guidance always works best. Now craft fairs and that sort that is another matter that might hurt my feelings if I did poor and didn't cover my expenses. But then again we're talking a whole another market of people and things to show and sell. But I'm sure not going to get my hopes up to high either, sometimes you click and sometime you don't. BillP

No, I understand and would not want to do that either, that's why I would like as many as will give me there input. Would not be apposed to working out a way to keep prices equal so as not to be under cutting the other, just let the customer chose which they like the best.

I hear what your saying UnicornForge, which is why I'm not looking to do just re-enactments. No I was an active Confederate re-enactor for 12 years doing a doctor's impression with an infantry Company out of Kentucky. I have been out of the loop for about 4 years now but thought I might get back into it in a small way combining my past impression of a doctor with blacksmithing. As a doctor I gave more talks then anything else educating on medicine in the mid 1800's. As a blacksmith I hope to maybe do the same in showing how blacksmiths made things back then. The events I plan on starting at are small local (100 miles or less) events to just see how it goes. So I more then understand re-enactors and how they look at things dealing with what we called "stitch Nazi's" who always question just how period your look, or if what you use is or is not correct for the time. So to really be making money is not my goal but if I make enough to cover my trip expenses that will be great. What I would really like is to set up and do craft fairs, local festivals and things of that sort. Long years ago I helped my ex-wife at a number of craft fairs so I understand how these things work as well. All I'm looking for is a base idea on pricing and the web sights you gave will help as well as the advice by others. I just don't want to over charge nor undercharge as again I know some events I could get away with more and some asking a little less. As I'm kind of retired now any money made will be a plus. As long as I cover my materials with a little profit to maybe get more to experiment with on new projects would be a pulse to me. All in all I just like the idea of helping to promote blacksmithing or the craft. At least it well as give me something to do as I just can't sit around, I'm not that old just yet. Thanks again for all your help fellows, I do appreciate it. BillP

Thanks guys this will really help. I have only seen 3 or 4 blacksmith in 14 years of re-enacting so getting ideas on prices is hard. Thanks again your information. Bill P

I know this has been asked and discussed in great length but I need to ask again. I'm looking to start getting back into Civil War re-enacting but this time as a blacksmith/doctor. Now I'm looking to sell some of what I make but not looking to do a big business, just hand out show the kids how it's done and educate in the process. Now my problem is just what to ask for what I do. Not I'm not good at math to figure time per cost type of thing so I just have a hare time figuring on these type of items. But, if some of you who do re-enact could give me an idea on what you ask for things like S hooks, fire place pokers, cooking forks, tent stakes, any thing used at an event I would appreciate it. I'm looking to do only local things in west Tn. and Ky. plus a few local fairs, so I don't think I would interferer with any of you. This is just a test this year to see in which direction I want to go in. Again I'm not looking to break the bank just cover cost and have some fun in the process. So if any of you could help I would appreciate it. Bill P

Yea dablacksmith, correct working posture was one of the first lesions we were taught. Along with anvil height proper hammer swing, I'll have to say I never thought building a 5 hook coat rack could teach so many different things to do and not do. Kind of showed how someone there really put some thought into what to do in order to teach the most to a novice. BillP

First I want to say to everyone thanks for the encouragement I do plan to keep it going till I can't any more. For Beornls To answer your question the next basic I class is February 13-14, 2010 for 275.00 Most of these classes start in September and finish in March. Now it's a two day class 8:30 to 5:00 and all you need for the class is safety glasses, ear plugs, and gloves. The Glasses are mandatory the others optional but they do provide ear plugs. Now you will need to get on line at The Metal Museum - it isn?t just a place where art is displayed; it?s a place where art is made or phone 1-877-881-2326 ask for Judy Davis. Now they only have about 10 to a class with only 5 forges and 10 anvils. I looking to try for the next one in January. If you need more info let me know and I'll see what I can do. For Frosty Yea I got a couple of good burns but no, not what I call a really good bruising or other related injuries. And Yea I know what your getting at as I felt the same way at my old job loading trucks for a major line. After 24 years I could load one to with in 100 lbs more or less to it's max weight just on sight where new bee's had to have there trailer weighted several times to get it right. That's why I said STARTING TO FEEL and not THAT I AM. No at the very start of the class you are told it was just a taste of what blacksmithing is like and that it's a craft that you never stop learning from. I'll have to say I never spent a full 7 hours working like that even at home. Yes, my right arm got very tired, my thumb and first finger started to split open from griping the hammer. I also discovered I had to concentrate on my hammer strikes and pay very close attention to my work and move at a steady pace so I didn't fall behind the others and not burn my work up like my forge partner bless his heart. But all tried and did I thought well not to have ever picked up a hammer to beat out hot metal. So no,I'll never claim to be a blacksmith as in being expert or master but I feel that now I can say a blacksmith in that I work with iron making bending and shaping a plane lump into something useful if not also of beauty building skills as I go. But at the same time always working at and exploring the knowledge needed to prefect my craft. No Frosty I do agree there are dues to be payed and I have just started my installments. Thanks again Folks BillP